15 replies to this topic

[Lenhamracer]

Hi,

 

I have a problem with my 1998 MPI Mini sportspack. The wheel bearings have loads of play and the top ball joint as well. I checked the nut on the hub and after removing the split pin I found out that I was able to unscrew the nut by hand! I than tightened it properly and the play was gone but the wheel did not turn completely free over 360 degrees, means it was a bit stuck on one position. I think I will need new bearings as the old ones have got a bit oval????

The other problem is the top ball joint. Is it possible to adjust the play by removing shims or is it better to replace the ball joint? And if so, which one would you buy? Minispares?

 

Thank you very much

 

Thomas

[Spider]

Sadly, yes, you'll need to replace the wheel bearing assembly. It may also have some dirt / grit in it too. I'd say at a guess here, you'll likely find the CV and drive flange are also karput too.

 

The Ball Joints after initial assembly are not adjustable to compensate for wear, because they don't wear evenly. You'll need to also replace this too.

[Lenhamracer]

Thank you very much. I have dismantled everything yesterday and will repair it today. I have also read your wheel bearing guide, great - thanks a lot!

Managed to find a timken bearing and new CV and ball bearing.

[Lenhamracer]

I have another question concerning the hub nut. If I tighten it with 200nm the hole for the split pin is right between two slots and it is impossible to tighten it to the next slot.

Any idea?? Shims?? Or shall I tighten the nut as far as possible (until I can fit a split pin), drive the car a few miles and see if everything settles a bit and it is possible to tighten it one more slot??

 

Thank you very much

[cal844]

It will tighten to the next slot, get a longer breaker bar

I use a 1metre bar and then a 2metre scaffold pole.

Edited by cal844, 03 August 2020 - 07:29 PM.

[Lenhamracer]

I tightened it already to 220nm!

[Algordo1100]

As far as I have always worked it, it is torque setting then to next 'hole' in the castle nut.
This has been fine for the front and rear of all minis I've owned over 20 years and other classic cars. That's what the manual says. Torque to specified, then forward to the nearest hole, never back off.
I haven't had a problem with all the new bearings I've done in all these years but if I'm wrong I'm sure someone with more knowledge will set it right.

But I'd say if you've been driving on an incorrectly torqued wheel bearing, it is unfortunately goosed.

Where safety goes with components such as hub nut torque etc, if unsure it's best to get it checked by a professional.

[croc7]

I tightened it already to 220nm!

Classicminisjapan.com sell a 12 hole castle nut.  Supposed to be very high quality.

[Spider]

Just before we get too carried away here, what type of CV Joint have you got ?

 

If it has 2 holes for the split pin (at 90⁰ to each other) the correct torque is 150 ft / lb and then to the next slot.

 

If it has 1 hole for the split pin, the correct torque is 197 ft / lb and then on to the next slot.

 

Note that 'going to the next slot' can result in tightening figures considerable more than these, and possibly as high as double these figure, though, I've not measured them.

 

If you have assembled the Wheel Bearing correctly and everything in the hub is in good order, this won't damage the Wheel Bearing nor will it cause it to lock up.

 

As long as it's within the design limits of the CV and the Nut (working to that above will be), IMO, the tighter the better.

[Lenhamracer]

I have a CV joint with one hole. Ok will try again later today. Is it important to fix it with a flat washer first and than with the collar?

[goudoogje]

yes, the flat washer first is important. 

[Dusky]

I have a CV joint with one hole. Ok will try again later today. Is it important to fix it with a flat washer first and than with the collar?

so you want 280nm torque on it.

[Spider]

I have a CV joint with one hole. Ok will try again later today. Is it important to fix it with a flat washer first and than with the collar?

 

I have never used the Flat Washer technique as that seemed to only have been recommended in the 90's or there abouts. My time on these pre-dates that and so I've never done them that way, it also makes no sense to me, perhaps I need to try it and see if it makes any difference? However, I do make sure the split tapered washer fits over the nose of the CV properly, this ensures that all the parts sat correctly.

[Tremelune]

Note that 'going to the next slot' can result in tightening figures considerable more than these, and possibly as high as double these figure, though, I've not measured them.

 

I think this is why most of these threads pop up...This is terrifying to do. I did my bearings this week with a 4-foot torque wrench...I don't think I've ever tightened a nut as much as this one! At 188 ft-lb, the hole was just too far to the "loosen" side, so I closed my eyes and tightened it another 55°...It groaned a bit as it turned, but nothing popped...

 

https://www.instagra.../p/CDaWg89nq1H/

Edited by Tremelune, 06 August 2020 - 05:40 PM.

[Spider]

 

I think this is why most of these threads pop up...This is terrifying to do. I did my bearings this week with a 4-foot torque wrench...I don't think I've ever tightened a nut as much as this one! At 188 ft-lb, the hole was just too far to the "loosen" side, so I closed my eyes and tightened it another 55°...It groaned a bit as it turned, but nothing popped...

 

https://www.instagra.../p/CDaWg89nq1H/

 

 

If the parts are in good order, I seriously doubt you'd be able to make them go pop.

 

To give a simple example here, if you search through these pages, you'll read of many who don't have a Torque Wrench and use a 4' length of Scaffold Tube, on to which they stand on to using their body weight.

 

Being very conservative here, let's say our Scaffolder weighs in at 100 lb and let's say they slip that 4' tube on all the way down to the handle and they stand on it at the 3' mark, that's 300 ft / lb and I haven't read of any going 'pop'. I'm sure here that few of us would weigh in at 100 lb and that some would only slip that tube on some of the way, giving that full 4 foot of leverage, so I'd be reasonably confident, there's a few getting about tightened to circa 500 ft/lb. I too used to do similar years back when I had very limited facilities and that was on the older '150 ft/lb' type CVs.

Check the parts are in good order, and if they are, have no fear

 

 

ACE Photo !!