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Fitting A Full Inner Wing?


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#1 Bobbins

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Posted 29 July 2020 - 11:00 AM

During the rebuild of our '86 City I was hoping to be able to save both inner wings and just use repair panels where needed, however the RH inner has through-rot along the top near the bonnet hinge as well as the usual areas around the flitch, air vent and the top shocker mount, therefore I'm currently considering replacing the complete panel.

 

It's not a job I've done before so obviously nervous that I can get the panel alignment spot on and not finish with everything very crooked! I've left the front subframe in place because I was planning to use this to align the new front panel and outer wings, but is the subframe better removed to do the inner wing? I'll be removing the subframe eventually anyway, I'd just been keeping it in place to align the front panel. Also will the bonnet need to be on to get the alignment of the inner wing correct? There also appears to be an additional panel sandwiched between the bulkhead and the inner wing, other than the usual hole behind the top shock mount this seems "okay".

 

Any pointers before I remove the old inner wing, order to work in etc? Too many questions!!!

 

 

 

 



#2 Ben_O

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Posted 29 July 2020 - 12:29 PM

The panel sandwiches between the inner wing and crossmember comes with the new inner wing.

 

Replacement of the inner wing is straightforward but sometimes I have encountered some problems with the fit at the bottom where it folds under the floor and toeboard. You may have to make some slight mods to this area if you have an issue.

 

As for alignment, you can bolt it to the crossmember where the shock top mount bolts and then it pretty much finds its way. You can use the door hinge mounts to align the other end.

 

With it bolted in these places, that should be enough to secure it so that you can try on the bonnet and wing.

don't forget the offer up the a panel too.

 

Cheers

Ben



#3 Bobbins

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 10:39 AM

Thanks Ben, that does make a lot of sense, get everything in place before doing any welding. I'm assuming that this can be done without cutting any of the scuttle which is quite sound?

Stu.

#4 sonikk4

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 11:15 AM

Thanks Ben, that does make a lot of sense, get everything in place before doing any welding. I'm assuming that this can be done without cutting any of the scuttle which is quite sound?

Stu.

 

The scuttle ends need to come off as the inner wing finishes underneath as per this picture. (Project Erm where i changed both inner wings.

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#5 sonikk4

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 11:16 AM

This pictures gives you an idea about how many plug welds there are as well

 

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#6 sonikk4

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 11:17 AM

And as per Ben's post. I initially used the shock mounts and the door hinge holes to align everything, then pinned and clamped it all in place.

 

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#7 Ben_O

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 12:22 PM

If the scuttle is sound, you can carefully drill the spotwelds on that end and cut through the scuttle just past the inner wing and a few inches up the a post.

If you do it carefully, it can be welded back on easily enough once you have replaced the inner wing



#8 Bobbins

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 11:52 AM

It's time to order the panels to get this job done and I notice that Minispares sell a complete pre-assembled section that includes the inner wing, A-panel and I assume the flitch section: http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

Has anyone had success fitting this assembly? I assume that all the adjustment of the inner wing position would be down to the accuracy of assembly of the A-panel, is this viable or is it preferable to replace the panels individually? I realise that in using the pre-assembled section I'd be losing the door hinge holes as a reference point for the inner wing.

 

Stu.

 

 



#9 Ben_O

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 09:20 AM

I pereonally would go for the a panel seperately as this will allow you to position the a panel more accurately in line with the front edge of the door to suit you rather than struggling with the pre set position.

 

And Yes, the full inner wing is everything from the a post forward 



#10 whistler

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 09:30 AM

If the scuttle is sound, you can carefully drill the spotwelds on that end and cut through the scuttle just past the inner wing and a few inches up the a post.

If you do it carefully, it can be welded back on easily enough once you have replaced the inner wing

Would this apply to a mk1 inner wing as I have to do this job but the original scuttle is 95% fine so I really don't want to cut and weld?



#11 Ben_O

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 10:35 AM

 

If the scuttle is sound, you can carefully drill the spotwelds on that end and cut through the scuttle just past the inner wing and a few inches up the a post.

If you do it carefully, it can be welded back on easily enough once you have replaced the inner wing

Would this apply to a mk1 inner wing as I have to do this job but the original scuttle is 95% fine so I really don't want to cut and weld?

 

If fitting a full inner wing, it applies to all models.

This is due to the top of the flitch being welded to the A post and bulkhead between the scuttle and dash rail. there is a sandwich of 4 skins on the ends.



#12 sonikk4

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 04:14 PM

 

If the scuttle is sound, you can carefully drill the spotwelds on that end and cut through the scuttle just past the inner wing and a few inches up the a post.

If you do it carefully, it can be welded back on easily enough once you have replaced the inner wing

Would this apply to a mk1 inner wing as I have to do this job but the original scuttle is 95% fine so I really don't want to cut and weld?

 

 

I know you say your scuttle is 95% sound BUT i thought mine was in good condition until i took the closeouts off plus when you look up under the scuttle from within the engine bay i found rust starting not only on the scuttle but right at the top of the bulkhead.

 

Now personally if i had any signs of rust at all and going to the expense of replacing full inner wings i would certainly not take the chance with the scuttle. All that work only for rust to start forming would really be a kick in the teeth.



#13 whistler

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Posted 16 September 2020 - 06:42 PM

 

 

If the scuttle is sound, you can carefully drill the spotwelds on that end and cut through the scuttle just past the inner wing and a few inches up the a post.

If you do it carefully, it can be welded back on easily enough once you have replaced the inner wing

Would this apply to a mk1 inner wing as I have to do this job but the original scuttle is 95% fine so I really don't want to cut and weld?

 

 

I know you say your scuttle is 95% sound BUT i thought mine was in good condition until i took the closeouts off plus when you look up under the scuttle from within the engine bay i found rust starting not only on the scuttle but right at the top of the bulkhead.

 

Now personally if i had any signs of rust at all and going to the expense of replacing full inner wings i would certainly not take the chance with the scuttle. All that work only for rust to start forming would really be a kick in the teeth.

 

At the moment the shell is upside down, there's no closing panels and I can see right through the scuttle to the other side and don't see any rust, just overspray paint. I will take a look with a camera though just to be certain. Thanks.



#14 sonikk4

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Posted 16 September 2020 - 07:37 PM

From the outside the scuttle looked fine, but this was what was hiding under the very rough looking closeout.

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This rust was not really visible on the bulkhead

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So this was all lurking under what looked like a sound scuttle.



#15 Bobbins

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Posted 16 September 2020 - 09:12 PM

It looks like a full replacement scuttle is quite a good idea!




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