22 replies to this topic

[kkeith]

Hi, 

 

Just finished putting engine back after a gearbox recon. At the same time the cylinder head was reconditioned and a few other bits replaced such as water pump, dizzy cap, breather pipe, breather, hoses, thermostat, radiator (I could go on...). I also replaced the TPC as it was broken (rattling), a new Temp sensor on inlet manifold and a new lambda sensor (bosch), cleaned up the throttle housing and inlet etc. 

 

So, car started (after I put the old Coil back on as new one was dead). I took it to the guy that did my cylinder head as he has diagnostics. It ran ok getting to him other than sounding a little throaty but afterwards it ran like a dog (I can confirm he didn't do anything other than diags. The diags showed no signal from Lambda and temperature was 50' (I think it was the air intake)

 

On way home it kept stalling and having tried again it was the same (ran ok for 20 mins then kept stalling). 

 

So, here's my questions if anyone can help. 

 

1. I stupidly didn't change the vacuums - seems I replaced everything but! I just checked and the fuel trap to ECU had a big hole in the elbow. I've tried a temp fix with tape but the car started, ran for a min then stopped - perhaps my fix wasn't sufficient but I also noticed the pipe was very easy to slide on so maybe not so much of a vacuum? I have ordered new vacuum leads and fuel trap. So, the question here is, do you think this could have caused the incorrect reading on the Lambda at all? It was basically stuck on high - 900v. I have read a lot of posts on here saying the vacuum leads can cause all sorts of issues. I did also notice some tape (not me this time) around the fuel trap to manifold vacuum when cleaning up the inlet but it seemed ok but now I'm thinking it could be damaged too. 

 

2. I have bought the 3 pin diag cable but I cannot get it working. I'm using the cable guys website (rovermems.com) but just can't get it to connect. I know the ECU works as the garage guy got diags. The cable guy sent me a new cable and was very helpful with drivers, settings etc but I am now at a loss. Anyone had this issue? Laptop/Chome/Rovermems.com/Windows10. 

 

3. I just noticed the rocker cover is still hot to touch a good 2 hours after putting the car back in the garage. It is a polished silver one from Minispares. Is that normal? It felt real hot. The car temp gauge was all good when driving. 

 

Desperately need the diags to work else I'm troubeshooting a little blind. Will report back when I've changed all the vacuums (should arrive Tuesday). 

 

Thanks in advance! 

 

[hunterg30]

Change the vacuum pipes/elbows for three millimetre silicone hose/pipe . Cheap on eBay. Lasts longer than those stupid rubber elbows. I don't know the rovermems app I use an acr4 . Broken vacuum causes havoc, and is the reason for most of the running probs on the SPI

Edited by hunterg30, 01 August 2020 - 07:30 PM.

[humph]

A couple of thoughts;
On the diagnostics are you sure you’re using the right connection point on the car? There are two ports on the side of the engine bay where the large relay pack is. One has a green sheath on it, this is for the alarm, the other is black and is the one you want to connect to. All this assumes the sheaths are on the correct ports.

Secondly, on the lambda sensor sticking, is it getting an electrical supply? I’ve had a similar problem and that was a broken feed wire at the back of the manifold. The old wiring is getting brittle and in this area it has a tendency to rub through.

[kkeith]

A couple of thoughts;
On the diagnostics are you sure you’re using the right connection point on the car? There are two ports on the side of the engine bay where the large relay pack is. One has a green sheath on it, this is for the alarm, the other is black and is the one you want to connect to. All this assumes the sheaths are on the correct ports.

Secondly, on the lambda sensor sticking, is it getting an electrical supply? I’ve had a similar problem and that was a broken feed wire at the back of the manifold. The old wiring is getting brittle and in this area it has a tendency to rub through.

Hi, yep, using the correct port. The lambda sensor is new. The loom wiring looks ok. I checked it over when the engine was out. Hoping the vacuum leads sorts it

[RaLF020]

It sounds like your issues are not at all dissimilar to mine. Have a look at the latest few posts in the topic "Another SPI Emmissions test failure.  Mine idles fine for at leats 20 mins absolutely fine but if I drive it, it bogs down under acceleration and once it gets warm it stalls.  If you get a reaoultion then maybe it will point me in the right direction.

 

Have a look at sprockets post in the pinned topic on Testing the Lambda Sensor.  If the voltage seems to be stuck high you can try pinching the fuel supply (orange) line and the reading should go low.  You can do this with a volt meter across the sensor wires but they need to be in circuit which is a bit fiddly  to do.  

 

I tested mine and it seemed ok although I did find one of the pins in the Lambda sensor connector was pushed out the back of the connector, so worth checking yours.

 

You said your Lambda sensor is new, is it a Bosch one? I've read the the cheaper ones can be a bit crap.

 

I've also ordered a 3 pin diag cable from ebay this weelk (just waiting for it to arrive). I have an old Win7 laptop i plan to use it on, so I'm hoping it will work.

 

I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Good luck.

[kkeith]

It sounds like your issues are not at all dissimilar to mine. Have a look at the latest few posts in the topic "Another SPI Emmissions test failure.  Mine idles fine for at leats 20 mins absolutely fine but if I drive it, it bogs down under acceleration and once it gets warm it stalls.  If you get a reaoultion then maybe it will point me in the right direction.
 
Have a look at sprockets post in the pinned topic on Testing the Lambda Sensor.  If the voltage seems to be stuck high you can try pinching the fuel supply (orange) line and the reading should go low.  You can do this with a volt meter across the sensor wires but they need to be in circuit which is a bit fiddly  to do.  
 
I tested mine and it seemed ok although I did find one of the pins in the Lambda sensor connector was pushed out the back of the connector, so worth checking yours.
 
You said your Lambda sensor is new, is it a Bosch one? I've read the the cheaper ones can be a bit crap.
 
I've also ordered a 3 pin diag cable from ebay this weelk (just waiting for it to arrive). I have an old Win7 laptop i plan to use it on, so I'm hoping it will work.
 
I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Good luck.

Thanks - sometimes just nice to know we’re not alone with these issues! Yes, the sensor is a new one from Bosch. But I guess there’s no guarantee it’s not faulty. Will try and do that test but I’m a little out of my depth when it comes to car electrics. If only I could get the damn diags working. Have tried absolutely everything (2 laptops running different versions of windows, 2 cables and loads of settings). I know the connector in the car is ok as the guy at the garage used it. Will check out the other post on emissions - thanks

[kkeith]

It sounds like your issues are not at all dissimilar to mine. Have a look at the latest few posts in the topic "Another SPI Emmissions test failure.  Mine idles fine for at leats 20 mins absolutely fine but if I drive it, it bogs down under acceleration and once it gets warm it stalls.  If you get a reaoultion then maybe it will point me in the right direction.
 
Have a look at sprockets post in the pinned topic on Testing the Lambda Sensor.  If the voltage seems to be stuck high you can try pinching the fuel supply (orange) line and the reading should go low.  You can do this with a volt meter across the sensor wires but they need to be in circuit which is a bit fiddly  to do.  
 
I tested mine and it seemed ok although I did find one of the pins in the Lambda sensor connector was pushed out the back of the connector, so worth checking yours.
 
You said your Lambda sensor is new, is it a Bosch one? I've read the the cheaper ones can be a bit crap.
 
I've also ordered a 3 pin diag cable from ebay this weelk (just waiting for it to arrive). I have an old Win7 laptop i plan to use it on, so I'm hoping it will work.
 
I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Good luck.

Just read your emissions post. You’ve certainly had a nightmare. One thing I didn’t mention is that there is no CAT on my sons car - since we got the car. I assume this will fail the MoT regardless? It passed an MoT prior to the purchase though. All very odd. I’m going to change the vacuum leads Tuesday and see how things go from there. The way I am going, it will be a new car as almost everything has been replaced!

[genpop]

". If only I could get the damn diags working."

There are other diagnostic software availiable!: mems-scan, mems-rosco,rover-mems-faultcode reader and so on.

[kkeith]

". If only I could get the damn diags working."
There are other diagnostic software availiable!: mems-scan, mems-rosco,rover-mems-faultcode reader and so on.

Hi, I’ve tried two software products (rovermems.com and rover-mems-faultcode) and both just nothing. All points to cable but as I mentioned, tried two cables. All very strange.

Cheers

[RaLF020]

kkeith, have you read the SPI Power Loss / Hesitation when cold post?

 

I used the links in this post to identify and download the diag software...

 

http://www.theminifo...cold/?p=3657685

Edited by RaLF020, 02 August 2020 - 08:11 PM.

[genpop]

Have you set the com port in the software? (mostly 3 or 4)

[kkeith]

Have you set the com port in the software? (mostly 3 or 4)

 

Hi, for the rovermems.com the developer says it is not specific. For the rover-mems-faultcode there doesn't seem to be such an option??

[genpop]

and what is that?

Attached Files

•  settings.JPG   18.76K   11 downloads

[kkeith]

and what is that?

 

That would be what I'm looking for. Oddly though, the left hand menu options for me stop at Fault Codes and Alerts - can't stroll down any further. Very odd. 

[kkeith]

 

and what is that?

 

That would be what I'm looking for. Oddly though, the left hand menu options for me stop at Fault Codes and Alerts - can't stroll down any further. Very odd. 

 

OK, can't see it but managed to get settings up by using tab key and hitting enter. Will try setting com port and report back - thanks. Odd that I can't see the menu option but I will live with that! Thanks