I have ordered a new ignition switch assembly in the hope this solves the issue.
Edited by Mini 360, 28 August 2020 - 02:30 PM.
Posted 28 August 2020 - 02:21 PM
Edited by Mini 360, 28 August 2020 - 02:30 PM.
Posted 28 August 2020 - 04:08 PM
Get another picture of the solenoid connections so we can see the wiring colours.
And I don't think that white/black should go to the alternator. Whatever it is should follow back to the ignition warning light I think. I'm not an expert in the later Minis as most of the ones I've worked on still had dynamos and inertia starters!
If you link brown (perm live) to white (switched live) on back of ignition switch you bypass it so everything is active.
Touching the end of the white/red (solenoid activator) to the brown/live it should then spin the starter. If not you have a problem with the starter motor, solenoid or the relays if fitted or a combination.
Edited by gazza82, 28 August 2020 - 04:14 PM.
Posted 04 September 2020 - 10:04 AM
Posted 04 September 2020 - 10:33 AM
As previously said:
I'd first suspect a flat battery and then a very bad short - on your photos of the ignition wiring 5 way plug, both the permanent live (brown) and ignition switched live (white) look like they have been overheating - this points to a short on the ignition circuit somewhere.
A short will give exactly the voltage drop you are experiencing as it basically earths out the battery - do a continuity test between the white wire (at the ignition switch plug) and ground. then if this proves a short you need to trace it out.
Also post a photo of the connections at the fuse box so we can see if there is anything amiss there.
And the black/white on the alternator MUST BE DISCONNECTED - this might not solve your immediate problem, but it is definitely wrong and will only confuse things later.
Posted 12 September 2020 - 09:54 PM
Ok so I have fitted a brand new genuine ignition barrel assembly c/w the wiring harness coming from it. This has not made any difference and I still have no lights on the dash at any position of the key.
Stumped!
Posted 12 September 2020 - 10:04 PM
Have you removed the ignition switch assembly and bench checked continuity of the run and start positions using a multimeter? Replacing only the barrel won’t fix an electrical fault in the switch.Ok so I have fitted a brand new genuine ignition barrel assembly c/w the wiring harness coming from it. This has not made any difference and I still have no lights on the dash at any position of the key.
Stumped!
Posted 14 September 2020 - 10:36 AM
Hi there.
It's been aaaaaages since I've been on TMF but Project Trig is rising once again.
I've just gone to start the car after refitting the engine. I fitted a new battery which is showing perfect voltage and this was paired with a new earth strap from the engine to the bulkhead.
However I am only getting around 11-11.5v on the battery cable/starter solenoid terminal. I then turned the ignition on and got no lights on the dashboard at all, no clicking from the starter solenoid either. I retested the starter solenoid/battery cable terminal and it reads 0v.
All wiring and parts are same ones from when the car was last started so I am confident that these are not faulty.
Any ideas what may be the issue? I have no clue about electrics but can follow instructions well.
Im so glad I have seen this!! I have the exact same issues and have been pulling my hair out for the past two weeks trying to figure it out. Please help!
I have the exact same issue after putting in a new loom. I have checked everything I can not understand what is going on have 12v to starter solenoid from battery but as soon as I turn the ignition on (position 2) it goes to 0v. I can’t get the lights to work or anything doesn’t even attempt to crank.
Posted 26 September 2020 - 01:15 PM
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