18 replies to this topic

[Elwyn]

Hello

I have my front wheels off, replacing discs and pads, track rod end, tie rod, swivel hub, cv joint, rubbers, bushes, boots, knuckle joints etc etc etc

I plan to take the callipers off to replace seals and pistons too

So, I need to disconnect the callipers from the rubber hoses

I assume I'll find they're stubbornly stuck

I assume there will be some damage in removing them

So I will either chose or have to replace the flexi rubber hoses with new (braided or otherwise)

The flexi hose to calliper end seems easy enough to reconnect (or am I fooling myself already?)

But what about the other end, where the flexi hose disappears into the sub frame?

I've looked on youtube amongst the hundreds of videos but can't find anyone doing this with the sub frame in place

I've found a few with the sub frame off the car as part of a rebuild, but that's not what I'm working with here

Is the job I'm considering even possible?

Any advice, links to videos, warnings, suggestions, things to be wary of (everything, I know!) etc?

Thanks in advance good people

 

 

[sonscar]

You will need to disconnect the subframe end as the caliper unscrews from the flexy and it will probably end up twisted when refitted,a character builder,Haynes four spanner task probably.Have fun,Steve..

[Chris1275gt]

I have done it on a 1275gt and it was quite straightforward, I had to change the fitting that the hose screwed into as it was loose and wouldn't tighten up as it was rusted, so with new fittings it was easy to get the hose lined up.I needed a ring spanner to get the top locking nut off and on that I had to buy though. Their's not much room for manoeuvre but it's simple enough. I don't know if it's different on a normal mini front.

Edited by Chris1275gt, 25 August 2020 - 05:52 PM.

[nicklouse]

it is how we used to do it all the time. just dont expect the pipe to come out of the curb side end of the flexy easily. be prepared to make up some new pipes as well.

[Elwyn]

I have done it on a 1275gt and it was quite straightforward, I had to change the fitting that the hose screwed into as it was loose and wouldn't tighten up as it was rusted, so with new fittings it was easy to get the hose lined up.I needed a ring spanner to get the top locking nut off and on that I had to buy though. Their's not much room for manoeuvre but it's simple enough. I don't know if it's different on a normal mini front.

[Elwyn]

Thanks. By top locking nut do you mean at the sub frame end? Sitting on top of the sub frame?

Edited by Elwyn, 25 August 2020 - 05:59 PM.

[Elwyn]

it is how we used to do it all the time. just dont expect the pipe to come out of the curb side end of the flexy easily. be prepared to make up some new pipes as well.

[Chris1275gt]

Thanks. By top locking but do you mean at the sub frame end? Sitting on top of the sub frame?

Yep.

[Elwyn]

Thanks. Having got this far, I’m not expecting anything to go as expected, to be easy or accessible. What would be the fun in that?

[Ethel]

If all you want are the calipers off it should be easy. Crack the hose loose from the caliper. Then unbolt the caliper from the hub so you can unscrew the caliper from the hose & avoid kinking it.

 

That said, if you're spending time  on a refurb tackling the hoses too makes sense. 

[Elwyn]

If all you want are the calipers off it should be easy. Crack the hose loose from the caliper. Then unbolt the caliper from the hub so you can unscrew the caliper from the hose & avoid kinking it.

That said, if you're spending time on a refurb tackling the hoses too makes sense.

[Elwyn]

It’s the opportunity that presents itself now that I’ve got this far. But needing to know what to do always helps. The calliper end is clear enough, subject to being able to crack the ancient junction. But the sub frame end seems to rely on having sight of and access to the top of the subframe.

[Ethel]

There should be access "windows" in the inner wings, but it is fiddly. With the caliper off you can apply similar tactics to turn the hose from below and just hold the fixing nut & union. Admittedly that's easier said than done, as everyone else says. The objective would be to slacken the nut enough so the hose will turn enough to unscrew from the pipe union, then finish removing the nut.

 

Tip: chock down the brake pedal to isolate the reservoir & limit the size of the brake fluid puddle. 

[Elwyn]

Thanks all.

Today's mission will be to see how accessible the top subframe nut is through the inner wing windows

For anyone in the north west of England, if you hear an almighty (and blue) scream mid morning, that will be me!

 

Don't suppose anyone has come across or knows of one of those youtube classic mini "how to...." videos showing how this is done?

Those videos are great for people like me

For those of you who actually know what you're doing, you probably shout at your screens when they do something wrong

[Ethel]

That could be a topic in itself, there are some decent ones though and all of 'em are a useful reference for discussing the do's & dont's of a job.

 

Whipping the grille off can be useful to get line of sight & a "shelf" for an open ended spanner. Can depend on the last punter leaving the nut at an opportune angle, but certainly one to think about if you're likely to be the punter following this time.