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1.3Spi Cooper Monte Carlo Won’T Start Any More. Help Greatly Appreciated


Best Answer xrocketengineer , 09 September 2020 - 02:00 PM

I have a couple of other thoughts. Make sure that the earth connection between the left tail light and the fuel tank is good and clean. If you still have problems after replacing the pump (hopefully not) check the voltage at the pump with the pump connected. If the voltage drops, the wiring has developed internal resistance and must be replaced. I had the problem with the radiator electric fan, voltage at the fan motor connector when disconnected, voltage disappeared when connected to the fan motor.

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#1 Mikeso51

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 12:35 PM

I am trying to help the widow of my recently deceased friend who is having problems with her husband’s cherished 1994 1.3spi Cooper Monte Carlo. Until last week the car would start up very easily, and run well. Now it turns over but won’t start. After deactivating the immobiliser, the ignition lights up normally but there is no noise from the fuel pump. The engine cranks over very healthily, but won’t fire up. It seems clear that the fuel pump is not running and therefore no fuel is reaching the injectors. I have carried out some electrical tests, and no power is reaching the fuel pump when the ignition is on. There is no power at the 10 amp inline fuse supplying the pump so It appears that the fuel pump relay in the YWB10022 fuse module is not operating. I removed and tested this module thinking that the pump relay was faulty, but all 4 relays operate correctly, so the fault is not in the module. Since the 12volt supply from the ignition switch is reaching the relay module it looks as though the fuel pump relay coil is not being energised by the ECU.

 

I am now at a loss to know where to look next, and I would very much appreciate any suggestions. There is some urgency because my friend’s widow is moving house following her husband’s death and the car will have to be moved.

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

Mike



#2 bluedragon

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 06:41 PM

Mike,

 

Have you checked the inertia switch (that shuts off power to the fuel pump in case of a jarring impact?) That should be on the engine compartment bulkhead, near the square relays.

 

 

Dave



#3 Mikeso51

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 07:42 PM

Thank for the suggestion Dave.

 

I checked that the inertia switch hadn’t tripped, and it seems ok. Certainly can’t press it down. In any case, there is no power on the fuse that feeds the fuel pump, and this is electrically before the inertia switch.

 

Having said that, I was checking for power a couple of minutes after I had switched on the ignition. I just realised that I’ve read that the feed to the fuel pump is only energised for a few seconds after switch on, so I now need to recheck immediately after switch on. The pump is definitely not running when the ignition is first switched on, so If there is power, even if only briefly,  it would seem to point to a failed fuel pump (?). I guess I can check out the fuel pump by pulling the inline fuse and supplying 12v directly to the fuse holder.

 

Any other ideas very welcome. 

 

Mike



#4 genpop

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Posted 05 September 2020 - 06:47 AM

There is a thread about the relais  pack: http://www.theminifo...-functionality/

Is there current outgoing from the relaispack?

Is there current on both sides of the line fuse?

is there current on both sides of the inertia switch?

Is there current on the plug on the tank to the fuel pump? If no, check the connector between front and rear harness.

If everithing is yes then it is the fuel pump!

Be aware you have current only for a few second after switching on  ignition! So you should have an assistant :-)



#5 Mikeso51

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Posted 05 September 2020 - 08:27 AM

Thanks, that’s a good checklist. I will go through it when I next visit my friend’s widow (the car is in her garage, which is 20miles away). I will take some long test leads so that I can monitor the test points from inside the car - unfortunately I won’t have an assistant to operate the ignition switch for me!

 

Mike



#6 Mikeso51

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 04:22 PM

Spent this morning checking out the mini using genpop’s checklist, and I’m now confident that I’ve found the problem. There is power reaching the fuel pump for the few seconds after switch on - checked it with a bulb in place of the pump, but nothing happens when the pump is connected. The pump measures a low resistance electrically - a few ohms - but just makes a faint noise and definitely doesn’t pump. Appears to be seized. Ordered up a replacement, and hope to report all is well again when the new unit is fitted.

 

Mike



#7 RustyAutoCityE

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 05:32 PM

Did you try giving the fuel pump a few "love taps" to see if it is just sticking from where it has been sitting?



#8 Mikeso51

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 07:21 PM

Yep, tried that, but no joy. Since the owner is an oldish lady it seemed best to pop a new one in rather than fiddle around with the 24 year old one, maybe get it going, then have it fail again fairly soon. £70 for a new replacement seemed a good investment.

 

Mike



#9 RustyAutoCityE

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 07:24 PM

Oh absolutely agree, I just meant from a fault finding standpoint.



#10 brivinci

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 02:59 PM

Good on you for helping keep another Mini rolling. As a Monte owner myself, i always like hearing another is getting the love and care it needs, especially given the unfortunate circumstances. Would love to see some pix if you have any. 



#11 Mikeso51

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 07:27 AM

I’ll see what I can do Brivinci.



#12 xrocketengineer

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 02:00 PM   Best Answer

I have a couple of other thoughts. Make sure that the earth connection between the left tail light and the fuel tank is good and clean. If you still have problems after replacing the pump (hopefully not) check the voltage at the pump with the pump connected. If the voltage drops, the wiring has developed internal resistance and must be replaced. I had the problem with the radiator electric fan, voltage at the fan motor connector when disconnected, voltage disappeared when connected to the fan motor.



#13 Mikeso51

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 05:25 PM

Thanks Xrocketengineer. Something else to check when I fit the new pump. Still waiting for it to arrive.



#14 Mikeso51

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 05:15 PM

 

Well, I fitted the new pump today. Actually it was a rebuild kit from Minispares, which at £70 was £100 cheaper than a complete assembly. Delighted to say that it completely solved the starting problem. Pump buzzed for a few seconds when ignition first switched on, then almost instant start. Out of interest I took the old pump apart (hacksaw job) to see what the problem was, and the motor commutator was completely green with corrosion, which was why it wouldn’t run. Car has been standing for over 3 years with just occasional starts, and pump was 26 years old, so maybe not surprising it finally died. All the rubber parts were perished and brittle.
 

brivinci asked for photos of the car, so I’ve attached some. Car is a bit dusty from being stored, but you can get a reasonable impression.  Would have posted more, but I can’t work out how to reduce image sizes to meet the upload limit!

 

Car will be up for sale in the very near future since my friend’s widow prefers a modern car.

 

Mike

 

 

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#15 Mikeso51

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 05:21 PM

A couple more photos to get over the upload limit!

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

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