16 replies to this topic

[mattrsa]

Hi All

 

My wife has had her 1988 Mini mayfair (her first car) stored at her parents garage since it failed its last MOT in 2001 and I have finally decided that I need something to keep my busy which I will probably regret as it will probably make me broke. 

 

So basically when the car failed the garage left the following message 

 

Advise

 

1. Brake Discs and calipers need replacing

 

By this looks of it this the is a complete replacement kit. Does that sound about right

https://www.minispor...-kit-black.html

 

2. Front Subframe n/s cracked

I presume I could get this welded without too much issue in the short term if I wanted to just get it "on the road". Long term we have a spare front and rear subframe which I could replace it with. 

 

3. Both front subframe mounting broken 

I presume this is the replacement part 

https://www.minispor...unting-kit.html

 

4.  Engine mounting broken n/s

Can this be replaced without removing the entire engine? and is this the part?

https://www.minispor...ls-1959-01.html

 

5. Swivel Locktab insecure n/s

No idea what this means. A piont in the right direction would be great. 

 

6. Hole Corroded in bulk head. 

Is this an MOT fail? The body probably need a good amount of work but I would ideally like to get it on the road. 

 

Long term she has a 1275 engine spare so there are thoughts of rebuilding that but I'm not sure of the cost of that. I have done a partial rebuild of a vw aircooled engine in the past so do have some knowledge. 

 

Want the car just a bit of fun for weekends. Would like to upgrade suspension and get a bit more power (stage 1 or 2 kit). Not sure if I should start building all that up on the new (spare) subframes. 

 

Going to Kent (im based in liverpool) this weeked to look at the car, see what spare parts are there, and look at the 1275 engine with the hope to organising it to be towed back here in the coming weeks. 

 

Any advice would be great. 

 

Thanks in advance

Matt

 

 

 

 

 

[johnR]

Good to see a new project starting. Do you have any pictures? Where is the hole in the bulkhead - if it needs welding you may need to remove the engine anyway and can replace the engine/subframe mounts then. Ideally you'll need an engine crane but it's fairly straightforward to do. An engine re-build can end up quite expensive if you decide to up-spec it while you're doing it (and it's difficult to resist!) I've just added a bigger exhaust (RC40 with LCB manifold) to my 998 - this combined with a lighter flywheel and some tweaking of the carb has transformed the performance for a fraction of the price and work of a re-build. If you then decide to go to 1275 in the future you'll need the exhaust anyway and can transfer the lighter flywheel.

[paulrockliffe]

The list reads to me like the best bet would be to drop the engine and subframe and slide it all out from under the car and then put back in the spare subframe and the 1275.  I'd be surprised if a proper look didn't identifiy loads of other problems that an MOT wouldn't be bothered about.

 

I guess it depends how quickly you can get it sorted and back on the road vs how much you want to just get it legal and drive it.

[mattrsa]

Thanks for the replies guys

 

Don't have any pictures but going down to kent this weekend do some investigation as to what other spare parts are there and to start the process of organising getting it towed back to liverpool so will get some more pictures and post them up here. 

 

Part of me wants to just get it back on the road asap but also realistically know that getting it back on the road for winter is probably not the best idea.

 

Would ideally like to use the 1275 engine but need to establish what state it is in as the wife knows very little about it, she can't even remember who/when she bought it. 

 

Paul: It is fairly easy to drop the engine on the subframe once everything is disconnected ? 

 

John: I am tempted to just get it 998 running and get s stage 1 kit on it so I can have a bit of fun as I know I have to spend big money to make lots of power.

 

Maybe a stupid question but if I was to attempt a rebuild of the 1275 myself and keep it completely stock how much do you think it would cost?

Edited by mattrsa, 07 September 2020 - 04:19 PM.

[KTS]

considering it's been sat for nearly 20 years, i'd have thought trailering it would be a better option

[mattrsa]

KTS : Yes getting it trailered not towed. Mate has a car trailer I'm hoping to borrow. Look out for me the m6 some time in the next few weeks. 

[paulrockliffe]

Yes, when I've done it I've done it with a pair of those wheel trolleys, one under the subframe at each side.  Unbolt everything supporting it with jacks and lower it all onto the trolleys.  Then jack up the front end until you have it high enough to roll the subframe out under the bumper.  Would be better with something better designed to sit the engine on really.

 

My experience is that for every job you know about, there's another one you don't, so really you want to properly inspect everything you can.  For me needing to weld the subframe and having a spare is enough justification to drop it out and build up the spare, will let you check over a lot more stuff that way.

[alex-95]

As said above, it's more than likely going to need a full rebuild after being sat for 20 years. 

 

Engine rebuild, if you had to have it rebored, crank re-grind, cam bearings, new pistons, all new bearings, gaskets, timing chain, head work etc, it'll easily be £1000+ to rebuild yourself.

[mattrsa]

thanks again for the replies

 

As said I'm going to kent this weekend to give the car a good inspection. 

 

I really just want to get the car on the road and have some fun rather than get into a full nut a bolt restoration. Then I can tinker and replace bits in due course. As you have all said as the car has been sitting for almost 20 years it probably best that I give it a good look over before deciding anything.

[GusRox]

thanks again for the replies

 

As said I'm going to kent this weekend to give the car a good inspection. 

 

I really just want to get the car on the road and have some fun rather than get into a full nut a bolt restoration. Then I can tinker and replace bits in due course. As you have all said as the car has been sitting for almost 20 years it probably best that I give it a good look over before deciding anything.

Thing is, this is exactly what Minis are for... :)  Mine is a right tatty Herbert, but I love driving him around.  Life’s too short not a enjoy what you can, when you can.  
 

So my view is that you should get your Mini on the road and enjoy! :)

[mattrsa]

So we managed to get the mini out the garage so here it is .............

 

https://photos.app.g...TEuVseSNrcMkCx7

 

Looks like it needs a bit more TLC than my wife let on. 

 

For now it is back in the garage until I can arrange to pick it up but I have brought back with me a spare front and rear subframes and a 1275 engine to keep me busy for now. 

Going to start stripping and cleaning the subframes tonight. 

 

As far as the rust goes I have looked on mini spares and looks like the front panel below the window is available but not sure about above the window. Any advice is welcome. 

 

Had a good look underneath and it appears solid. 

Edited by mattrsa, 14 September 2020 - 07:55 AM.

[johnR]

looks like there's a fair bit to do there - no doubt you'll find horrors underneath as well when you start poking about.Any idea what look you'll go for?

[mattrsa]

yes starting to wonder what I am letting myself in for. I'm semi confident with the mechanical side of things have owned a few vw vans which I have done work on but body work (welding) is not something I have ever done and by the looks of it that is something that is going to cost a hell of alot to get sorted. 

 

As far as looks I do like the mini racer/rally style look. 

[johnR]

I've not done much welding so I stripped my car down and got a coachworks to do the welding and paint as a side project (cheaper rates, no definite finish date)while I restored everything to go back on the shell. I then put it all back together. Obviously it costs more than doing it all yourself but does mean you get more room to restore everything without the shell there and the project comes together more quickly.  

[mattrsa]

Yes I think I’m def going to have to outsource the shell/body work but don’t have the faintest clue how much it might cost. Any ball park figures based on what you have seen in the pics would be really useful.

I have completed the strip down of the two spare subframes tonight so now need to clean them up and get them them sprayed.