7 replies to this topic

[And again]

Hi just putting finishing touches to my mini before putting on the road,quite frankly the thought of any rust appearing on the car makes me shudder.My winter project has actually took 5years a lot of blood sweat swearing and more money than I care to mention anyhow all underside is new steel primed with epoxy 2 pack x2 good coates of stonechip then body colour 2 pack should I leave as is or wax oil everything underneath or put shutz or similar underneath

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Edited by And again, 25 September 2020 - 04:02 PM.

[Steve220]

Use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and UC... much better than waxoyl, which is just terrible.

[Tornado99]

I guess it depends a lot on how you intend to use the car. If its a showroom dweller than very little is needed. A daily all weather driver will need some extra protection.

Here in North American a lot of salt it used six months per year and poorly protected modern cars can rot out in five years. Ive seen many long term reports of FluidFlim or WoolWax doing remarkable protection over multiple winters. Search YouTube to see such owner posted reports. These remain creep-able over months and can self heal when disturbed. They will attract grime so use mostly on underside surfaces for better aesthetics.
I would avoid any type of hard or rubberized undercoating because these all eventually begin to release and flake, which then traps water and salts against metal.

[RustyAutoCityE]

In my opinion, considering it is all clean and shiny, the more you protect it now the better.

 

 

Use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and UC... much better than waxoyl, which is just terrible.

I will be using Dynax UC under the boot floor (eventually).

 

I have used it on other cars in the past and I was impressed with it. Comes out almost clear (slight yellow tinge to it when put on thick) and was super easy to apply.

[KTS]

treating the underside is no bad thing, but if you're serious about keeping the rot at bay you need to be treating all the areas that commonly rot like the sill cavities, rear subframe (cavities, nooks and crannies), rear valence & closing panels, scuttle closing panels, A-panel join to a post, doors, etc etc as well

I'm in the process of treating my pickup at the moment using dinitrol products, but as mentioned above BiltHamber products also have a good reputation

[And again]

Cheers for the comments I’ve already sprayed wax oil in all cavity’s sills doors it’s all I’ve used for 30+years and has always done a sterling job but I will read up on bolt hammer dinertrol and see what comes out best for rest of underside thanks

[leyland73]

Cheers for the comments I’ve already sprayed wax oil in all cavity’s sills doors it’s all I’ve used for 30+years and has always done a sterling job but I will read up on bolt hammer dinertrol and see what comes out best for rest of underside thanks

You also get a discount on bilt hamber products if you’re a minute forum member, think it’s 10%. Great products, I use their clay bars and dynax uc.

[MiNiKiN]

I'd clearly recommend FluidFilm into all cavities and around seams.

 

Stay clear of any Schutz (underbody seal) as it just covers up the mould until it's too late for remedy. I wouldn't even have put on the stonechip or seam sealer.

As I said above, I just protect cavities and seams with Fluid film, which keeps away the water and has a tendency to creep into the little gaps.

I then occassionaly, say once a year, check the underbody for signs of paint damage or rust and paint repair and re-protect these areas.

 

I really rather see what is happening down there - I dislike the rust to be able to do its diabolic work in the "underground".