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1998 Mpi Running Issues After Restoration


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#1 leepol83

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 06:45 PM

Hi all I’ve a 1998 mpi mini just had a full restoration, my issues are it starts first time no problem it then backfires and runs terrible and if you rev it it’ll just rev right up and won’t come back down very iratic!!! Strange ?
Other issues are if I put my passenger indicator On the headlamp and fogs/spots will flash very dim aswell

I’ve tried cleaning the 2x main earth points under the bonnet 1 left and 1 right. All good And clean
Other things noticed if If put my hand over the intake where the air filter sits it sucks a little bit and does improve abit but should Shorley cut The engine out ?
Also noticed if I go near the throttle position sensor it revs itself up For some reason, even if I just move it abit

This is the original engine that came out nothing changed on the actual engine itself the engine wiring harness itself Had bee changed, everything else the same and ran lovely before

Any help with this really appreciate I know it’s not going to be a 1 answer fix and I’ll have to try a few things I’m sure.
Thank you

#2 leepol83

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 11:34 PM

Also forgot to Mention I have tried a brand new coil pack, leads and even plugs but no change, I’m convinced there’s an electrical problem but don’t know where to start to be honest!!
Thanks again for anyone that’s taken the time to read this thank you 🙏
Lee

#3 leepol83

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 11:34 PM

Double post 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️😂

Edited by leepol83, 26 September 2020 - 11:35 PM.


#4 genpop

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 06:30 AM

check your IACV on being stuck wide open



#5 semag

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 07:32 AM

I would start by checking that that the throttle butterfly is free and returns to the stop with a positive click, also check that the throttle cable is slack when the throttle is shut, remove the tps plug and make sure that it`s clean inside and undamaged. After all that I would get it scanned you can spend hours and loads of money on trying to find faults on mpi minis without a scanner. your problems as described could be down to the crank sensor or the cam sensor so you can see that in this instance a scanner is a must. One last thing check the earth wire for the ecu is making a good connection on the earthing point, bad earth on the ecu can cause all manor of different faults.

 

Hope this helps



#6 sonscar

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 07:47 AM

If it continues to run with the intake blocked off there is a serious air leak.It is important that all air is measured by the map sensor.I would start with the manifold and work away from there.Enjoy,Steve..

#7 slidehammer

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 07:55 AM

One thing for sure, there is definitely an earth issue and I think that would be a good start point to eliminate that and see if in doing that the engine runs any better. I had an earth issue on my Peugeot 306 daily that was making the rear lights flicker when the indicators were on and in fixing that it cured a intermittent ABS light fault that had plagued my for years. I would start by running some temporary earths from a good source to the effected lights (get them working properly first) and then see if that has any effect on the engine running. If not start working through the various connectors making sure they are clean and fully pushed home. Also make sure the wires to the connectors haven't become brittle and detached from any of the multi plugs. The other thing to try is resetting the throttle position sensor, which I believe you can do by going through a procedure with the depressing the throttle peddle. I does some like the throttle position sensor or it's wiring are a problem. They work like a volume knob on a stereo and with lack of use get scratchy and give the ecu mis-information. I changed one on my MG TF and it cured erratic idle and acceleration.



#8 leepol83

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 08:47 AM

Thank you so much for you’re reply’s 🙏

Edited by leepol83, 27 September 2020 - 09:03 AM.


#9 leepol83

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 09:03 AM

Hi thank you really appreciate you’re help honestly!!!

Right so how do I check the IACV is stuck Open I have taken this Out and cleaned it it was a little grubby ?

I’ve checked the butterfly and seems to snap shut fine and I’ve actually disconnected the throttle cable to check it’s not holding it open and still the same

I’ve checked the 2x main earth points left and right of engine bay cleaning any paint from around them
(bloody raptor is tough stuff) 😂 they seem ok

How would I reset the throttle position sensor ?

With the earth problem I’m in agreement doesn’t seem right, my thought is to drag an earth from the Actual battery earth to the effected areas only issue is there all sealed plugs on the headlamps and things ? Would the engine earth cause an issue maybe as I’ve not checked this, it’s all brand new but could have paint in I suppose

Thanks again!!!
Lee

#10 leepol83

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 11:14 AM

Don’t want to start a massive thread on this as I need to sort this issue but what’s a cheap diagnostics tool to tell me any issues ?
Thank you 🙏

Found this on eBay this is the description:-
Item number 124272104701

Cable for MEMS diagnostic app, replicates the Sykes Pickavant ACR 4 diagnostic machine
Suitable for Rover MEMS Ecus versions 1.9, 2J and 3. You must check for a 16 pin socket under the dash. If you have a 3 pin socket in the engine bay you will need our 3 pin version of the cable.
Please message for a link to the free free MEMS application for Windows or android.

Edited by leepol83, 27 September 2020 - 11:24 AM.


#11 g0myw

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 03:32 PM

that's the cable for https://rovermems.com/

I've used it on the android tablet. Its pretty basic - but at that price worth a go.

There are many folk who will offer to help with their SP ACR 2 or 4 [if near to you]

Or there's also .https://pscan.uk/ which is quite comprehensive.



#12 tmsmini

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 03:34 PM

I would check this thread before buying anything:

http://www.theminifo...lling-to-share/

 

to see if someone close has one to share.

 

You said you checked the IACV, what was the condition of the two O rings?

 

My experience is that as the wires are nearing 25 years of age, the insulation is getting brittle causing breaks.



#13 leepol83

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 06:34 PM

Ok bit of progress today :-
Cleaned the earth in the boot had a lot of paint and seam sealer around it!
Cleaned the engine earth where the engine steady bolts to that was covered in raptor paint aswell
Managed to get all the electrics working fine including the spots and front fogs which have never worked properly.
I did have an issue where I put the Actual lights on then the spots on By pulling the flasher the 2x closest togeather in the middle and nothing for a few seconds then decided to come on ? Bit delayed a few times on thatAny ideas ?
The engine running has improved I would say seems to tickover lovely when everything electrical is on, then as it warms up it’ll start to pop at the exhaust and if I rev it it’ll rev right up and stay up!! ?
One thing I did notice was it’s running very hot very quick the gauge is normal temperature in the car but if I put a rag at the exhaust it’ll literally burn it that’s after a few minutes running? Again I did try covering the inlet with my hand and it just ran normal.
I noticed a bit of water on the floor where the exhaust joints are underneath assuming it’s leaking could this cause issues up top ?
Thanks 🙏 Appreciate it

#14 leepol83

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 06:52 PM

Another thing I noticed was my fuel cap hissing and a smell of fuel coming from it aswell, it’s a non vented type cap brand new ?

#15 leepol83

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Posted 28 September 2020 - 06:46 PM

Any more advice on this most appreciated 🙏




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