7 replies to this topic

[sharkojoints]

I'm replacing the rear valance on my 1984 Mini 25, and having nearly cut the old one off I'm thinking about how to fit the nice new one.

 

Obviously I was going to use the conventional way of drilling and plug welding it, but is there any reason why it can't be bolted on? I'm thinking this would be easier to paint and prep to keep rust away in future, as well as easier to remove to clean the muck out.

 

Thoughts?

[sonikk4]

Well, it is part of a three layer welded joint etc so adds to the overall strength in that area, something being bolted will not do.

 

But how much strength does it impart?? Personally i would go with the design and weld it all together. Use the right products will protect it.

[GraemeC]

This is possibly one place on a Mini where a good panel bond product could probably be used to good effect.

[sharkojoints]

Well that clears that one up 

[imack]

A bolted, riveted or bonded (or corroded) rear valance could result in an mot failure as it's likely to be considered an inadequate repair as the ends of the valance fall within 30cm of the rear subframe rear mountings.
The valance would need to be spot/plug or continuously welded within 30cm of the subframe mounts.

[sharkojoints]

Thanks - I'm a Land Rover guy, really, so my instinct is to simplify and add weight 

[Cooperman]

If it were bonded on using a good structural adhesive, it seems likely that no-one would notice. Modern structural adhesives are very strong.

[Homersimpson]

If it were bonded on using a good structural adhesive, it seems likely that no-one would notice. Modern structural adhesives are very strong.

You can get adhesives with small glass beads in to make sure that when you clamp it up there is enough of the adhesive in the gap to make the joint sufficently strong (so you don't squeeze it all out).

 

Personally I would weld it  as thats how its meant to be, I would leave bonding panels on to more modern cars or areas where its not structural (bolted on panels).