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Persistent Stalling Issue - Spi


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#1 oohaargh

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Posted 03 October 2020 - 02:11 PM

I'm having problems with my SPi Mini Equinox stalling. It starts and runs absolutely fine until it decides not to, at which point it just dies (can either be idling or at speed).

 

It most commonly happens when I'm starting from cold - it usually runs for about 30s or so then dies. It then starts and dies straight away a few times in a row (not very enlightening video of this below :D), and on the 3rd or 4th restart it runs fine again. I then get 10-30 mins normal running out of it before it happens again. Giving it lots of revs doesn't make any difference - engine starts, revs go up, it dies off exactly the same from high revs.

 

I've had a trawl through the forums but haven't found much with the same symptoms. It's my first mini, so I'm still learning about it and I'd be keen for any pointers on how to diagnose the problem.

 

I tested the ignition coil and it was below the acceptable resistance range, so I've replaced that but hasn't solved the issue

Other things I can try:

- Replacing the vacuum hoses - nothing obviously wrong with them but fairly cheap and seems like a common issue

- Hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to see if there's a leak somewhere

- Get a fault reader - £145 seem reasonable? https://www.ebay.co....PI/284030975024 It's a fair outlay but seems like it might be a worthwhile investment?

- Trying a different fuel pump (bit expensive for a speculative fix though as I don't have a spare one around)

- ???

 

Any ideas?

 

 



#2 Pops_Guild

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Posted 03 October 2020 - 03:33 PM

If youve not changed them in a long while then changing vac pipes is a must. They are a service item. If you haven’t done that then until you do so it’ll make all other diagnoses a nightmare. They are key to the smooth running of an SPI

Getting yourself a diagnostic tool will likely help, certainly better than randomly buying new bits. The Crypton ACT that you linked too is one of the best as long as it comes with the correct card but there are cheaper USB windows/android solutions which will allow you to see fault codes at least.

Have you changed the fuel filter? Also a forgotten service item.

Fuelling issues can be caused by many different issues, you need to eliminate the basics first which vac pipes and fuel filter are.

Edited by Pops_Guild, 03 October 2020 - 03:34 PM.


#3 humph

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Posted 03 October 2020 - 04:00 PM

Rather than spending all the money on the sykes you could try one of these leads

https://www.ebay.co....u0AAOSwn~JdoHGK

I have one, not sure if it was from the same seller. Used with free to download software such as mems rosco it should give you the readings you need. Check out car mechanics magazine this month where they have an article on the different software packs available to use with these leads.

As mentioned vac pipes are an overlooked service item, so test/change these. On mine the O2 sensor, it’s wiring, and the coolant temp sensor have been the main issues. Before changing expensive sensors always check the wiring and that power is getting to them. The wiring looms on these old cars are pretty brittle now and there are a number of points in the engine bay where they rub against metal parts and break.

Edited by humph, 03 October 2020 - 04:01 PM.


#4 wassupcrew

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Posted 03 October 2020 - 06:24 PM

i have the cable humph above suggested. It works very well. the software i have is called rovermems (rovermems.com) i found it very easy to use as it has pc and android software. it will read and erase fault codes, give live data of all sensors, and can trigger some sensors and solonoids so you can see if they are working eg purge valve fire injectors, fire coil and so on.



#5 oohaargh

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 10:44 AM

Thanks all for the advice - I'll get the vacuum pipes and fuel filter done, and one of these cables looks like a good bet (I'll take £25 vs £145...). I'd thought the vacuum pipes looked in fairly good nick but just touched one yesterday and part of it crumbled away, so perhaps not so much  O_O 

 

For vacuum pipes I'm looking at these - is this the full set?

http://www.minispare...l/PHP10027.aspx

http://www.minispare...c/MLH10026.aspx

http://www.minispare...l/MLH10022.aspx

http://www.minispare...l/PHP10043.aspx



#6 wassupcrew

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 10:54 AM

Personally I would get some 3mm silicone tube to replace the vacuum pipes. Its not going to fall apart or get brittle and can deal with the engine bay temps alot better. I wold go for something like this
https://www.ebay.co....OMAAOSw8WdblkJd

You can get the coloured ones to match your mini

#7 oohaargh

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 11:13 AM

Personally I would get some 3mm silicone tube to replace the vacuum pipes. Its not going to fall apart or get brittle and can deal with the engine bay temps alot better. I wold go for something like this
https://www.ebay.co....OMAAOSw8WdblkJd

You can get the coloured ones to match your mini

Where do you get the right connectors from if you buy the tubing separately? They're probably the part that most needs replacing



#8 wassupcrew

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 11:15 AM

Wich silicome hise you don't need the connectors. It just pushes straight on

#9 humph

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 11:33 AM

As mentioned change the fuel filter, but prepare for a battle.  The screw in types corrode awfully at the unions so if it hasn't been changed for a while it could be a struggle.  If you're not using the car daily prepare by spraying the unions with liberal amount of Plus Gas or similar daily for a week to give you the best chance. When mine got stuck due to lack of service I re-piped from the fuel tank to the metal under car pipework in rubber and used a similar sized push fit filter from a Citroen Saxo/Vauxhall Astra. Very easy, and less messy, to change now.



#10 oohaargh

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 12:01 PM

Wich silicome hise you don't need the connectors. It just pushes straight on


Ah great, I'll give that a go then.

I've been reading some of the fuel filter horror stories, looks like it's going to be a fun one. The previous owner was big on the cosmetics but less big on the general servicing, so safe to assume it's probably in a bit of a state.

Will let you know how I get on

#11 oohaargh

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Posted 08 October 2020 - 08:20 PM

Sure enough there was a nice hole in the hose between the fuel trap and the mems unit. Replaced it with a new silicone hose but it hasn't done the trick, but still got the two hoses round the back to do and the fuel filter this weekend, so fingers crossed

IMG_20201008_183900.jpg
IMG_20201008_182229.jpg

#12 wassupcrew

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Posted 08 October 2020 - 09:36 PM

You have the same colour hose as I have. Suits the purple paint lovely

#13 oohaargh

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Posted 11 October 2020 - 02:42 PM

Vacuum hoses are all in, fairly straightforward once I'd taken off the plate with the fuel trap holder on it.

Did the filter yesterday, was in surprisingly good nick but still took a good bit of scrubbing and scraping and plus gas and whacking with a hammer to get it to shift. 

Started it up to test for leaks and couldn't get it to stall again, was hoping that had sorted it. Took it out for a drive today, stalled after about 30s...

Only difference was I hadn't strapped the fuel tank back in when I tested it last night, so had another look at that and the fuel hoses run under the retaining belt, which seems a bit odd but it does have a big enough gap on top for them. It pushes them tight round a corner though, which has put a bit of a kink in the fuel out hose. Ran it again with the belt off and it was fine again. 

Going to stick a longer bit of hose on there as it's still slightly kinked however I do it, and run it outside the belt, and hopefully that should do the trick.

Thanks all for the help

IMG_20201011_145223.jpg

#14 Pops_Guild

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Posted 11 October 2020 - 04:41 PM

As you’ve realised all of the fuel pipes should be outside of the tank strap. Not only will that compromise the fuel flow it’s also not great for making sure the tank is secure.

Hopefully that will be you sorted!




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