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Spi Fail.1996 Single Plug Ecu.


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#1 1bonjing19

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Posted 11 October 2020 - 07:04 AM

Story so far.

    Removed entire auto power unit, replaced with 12 A+, 40 thou oversize & manual DAM 2886 rod box .

Unable to use pre engaged starter, so external solenoid and inertia starter fitted.

Brown / red trace to starter circuit which fires starter on crank. ( that works fine).

Battery + to correct terminal, with the other heavy leads from the pre engaged starter also connected.

Auto inhibitor wires connected together. Retained all spi ignition items.

 

Now, the hard stuff.........

 

Ignition on and cranking, a relay can be heard operating, stepper motor sets up, ignition light on, fuel gauge operating.

Engine cranks along nicely. Oil light goes out as pressure rises.

 

BUT, No fuel flow and no HT spark. Coil has 12V on both sides. No current in crank sensor circuit.

 

Sensor moved to front crank pulley with a trigger wheel. Extended wire lead , not crossed.

 All fuses in the multi fuse box checked.

 

Only item changed was location of original sensor and inertia starter fitted.  ( unable to locate a verto clutch and sensor ring flywheel ).SPI head retained with new temp and heat units replaced. Vacum hoses replaced.

All working without fault before power swap.

 

So, there it is..

What has failed?

Cheers from New Zealand.

 



#2 Bobbins

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Posted 11 October 2020 - 09:47 AM

The crank sensor has to read a specific "missing teeth" pattern on the SPi flywheel so that the ecu can function correctly, have you replicated this pattern correctly?

Stu.

#3 1bonjing19

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Posted 11 October 2020 - 09:53 PM

Yes. Appears to be a non current situation from the loom plug. Also, fuel pump inoperative. Trigger wheel gaped at 0 and 180 degrees, as per original on removed torque convertor.  Tooth gap set at sensor with tdc 1 / 4. Thanks for your interest.



#4 Wazzah

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Posted 12 October 2020 - 09:34 PM

The original crank sensor is offset from TDC.

I measured my flywheel and the sensor offset when I last had it off.

Probably a poor choice of words.

It was about 22.5 degrees from memory.

I took a picture at the time ( of the flywheel and flywheel housing) and I'll try and dig it out.



#5 1bonjing19

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Posted 12 October 2020 - 10:29 PM

Original removed engine. TDC 1/4, I assume the sensor lined up with the gap? Or, is it, as you indicated, 22.5 degrees in advance. I omitted to pic the cover....duh..  I have tdc 1/4 on replacement, with trigger wheel gap at the sensor.. As an aside, I have fuel pressure at injector supply line, but none entering body intake at cranking.  12V at coil .Thanks for your interest.Attached File  118691080_363088461706357_4189985050495407279_n.jpg   60.21K   3 downloads



#6 Bobbins

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Posted 13 October 2020 - 12:35 PM

You can't see the sensor and toothed wheel from that view of the engine.

Why are you assuming the missing teeth are at 0 and 180 degrees? The crank position sensor is on the front of the block and takes its trigger signal from the flywheel to tell the ecu where the flywheel is in the revolution, the missing teeth can be anywhere in the 360 degree cycle as long as the ecu knows where.

#7 FlyingScot

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Posted 13 October 2020 - 04:00 PM

Okay so you have binned the auto and replaced with an A+ manual engine and gearbox but without the transfer casing from an SPi and without SPi flywheel and correct clutch ? (which is why you can't use a pre- engaged starter)

 

The starter solenoid in the SPI is in the MFU (relay pack) so you should have been able to utilise that or maybe you are with the external switched by it.

 

On SPi the pattern is 36 points with two missing 180 degrees out so you could use a 36-1 trigger wheel and remove a tooth opposite the original (180 degrees out). 

 

Here is a previous thread on the same topic

 

http://www.theminifo...lywheel-on-spi/

 

FS



#8 1bonjing19

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Posted 13 October 2020 - 07:42 PM

External start solenoid, switched by brown / red trace from loom. This actually works. Starter cranks on key. Trigger wheel mounted on front crank pulley. Extra tooth removed from trigger wheel, opposite original. (Replicating original torque convertor location, as per pic.) Next step is to use a sensor from Trigger Wheels which picks up signal from outer face of trigger wheel. Original sensor is a thin rod, which seems to run inside the double sided ring, giving a 'surround' signal'. I am of the inclination that the small sensor area is not capable of registering a sound signal for ecu recognition. Thanks for the link, and your interest.

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Edited by 1bonjing19, 14 October 2020 - 06:28 AM.





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