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How To Even Up A Panel Join


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#1 Junior Mini

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 11:34 AM

I have just fitted a new quarter panel on to my shell and now realised that he replacement door step was 1mm too far in. I have fitted the quarter panel to align with the door skin as this is the most obvious reference, but wondered how I could build/blend the door step join level with the panel. The step disappears under the door after about 5" so it's nothing huge. Should I build it up with weld or something else?

My concern with fillers is that the vibration of the door slamming and the potential to catch it getting in/out of the door would eventually cause it to fail.

 

Thanks for reading my babbling.

 

Paul.



#2 Ben_O

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 12:24 PM

I would cut the step open, move the edge to where you need it and weld the cut up.

 

Any pictures?



#3 Junior Mini

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 06:05 PM

Yeah sure.

 

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#4 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 06:24 PM

Looking at that you could cut the underlying piece out so the ends butt up together. Then you can straighten everything up. 



#5 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 06:28 PM

Have a look at this picture. Ignore the thin strip of metal as that is part of the old sill lip. You can see where the original door step finishes.

The bottom of the joggle on the diagonal indicates where the step finishes.

 

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#6 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 06:29 PM

A slightly better view

 

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#7 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 06:30 PM

Without the lip from the sill

 

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#8 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 06:31 PM

With the quarter panel fitted

 

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#9 Ben_O

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 06:51 PM

So is your issue the tight gap between the door and the quarter/step of that the quarter doesn't fit tightly to the step at the overlap?



#10 Junior Mini

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 07:42 PM

Yes that's right. The step has been replaced, i welded it to the b post but as you can see that was too far inwards. So now i have the quarter panel in the right place, the gap of the join of the b post and the quarter panel is not flush because the step is too far inboard. I hope that makes sense?

Edited by Junior Mini, 19 October 2020 - 08:00 PM.


#11 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 08:11 PM

Yes that's right. The step has been replaced, i welded it to the b post but as you can see that was too far inwards. So now i have the quarter panel in the right place, the gap of the join of the b post and the quarter panel is not flush because the step is too far inboard. I hope that makes sense?

 

Have got any skin pins?? Not cleco's either as you need a bit of pulling power to bring the joints together.



#12 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 08:18 PM

Just thinking here, when you aligned the quarter panel with the door step joggle did it sit flush or did you not notice?? Also i'm not sure if its the picture but the quarter panel edge there looks like its bowed out slightly??



#13 Junior Mini

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 08:37 PM

Yeah it looks bowed but it measures true with a straight edge? I just dont know? I don't really want to risk the quarter panel as it's in the right place, but do hear what you Ben are saying. I think i will cut at the curve of the step and at the sill line and try to pull them in. Do you think a pop rivet would have the strength?

#14 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 08:44 PM

Yeah it looks bowed but it measures true with a straight edge? I just dont know? I don't really want to risk the quarter panel as it's in the right place, but do hear what you Ben are saying. I think i will cut at the curve of the step and at the sill line and try to pull them in. Do you think a pop rivet would have the strength?


The cuts should allow you to pull it together. I take it you did not add any plug welds there on the quarter panel?? There should have been at least two spots or plugs. And yes a pop rivet should pull it together. If you can find one a 5/32nd one would be ideal with a plug weld either side.

#15 Cooperman

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Posted 19 October 2020 - 09:10 PM

A 1 mm mis-match is not much in Mini terms. If a normal body shop had it that close, they would most likely blend it with some good-quality filler, power sand it back and paint it.

We have all seen restorations done a while back where the filler has been as much as 3 to 4 mm think with no issues, although that is bad practice in engineering terms.  I've seen irregular surfaces blended with a spray putty/ultra-high-build primer surfacer up to about 1.5 mm.






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