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Oily Clutch Plate (?) And Other Clutch Questions...


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#1 proccy13

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Posted 27 October 2020 - 07:16 PM

 Hello all,

 

This is my first time replacing a clutch and I just wanted some advice and help please! Sorry for all the questions, I've read up as much as I can before asking.

 

This is my 1983 998cc verto clutch set up with inertia starter. Having taken the engine out to do some fiddly jobs and other maintenance, I pulled the clutch to find the source of the mysterious slipping I had very recently noticed and a small knocking noise when the car is idling and clutch disengaged (idler bearing needs changing and end float?). 

 

Anyway, the first pic shows the verto clutch plate, does it seem little oily to you? Unfortunately there seems to be a lot of 'meat' left in it but is the best idea to replace it? Can I just replace the clutch plate and leave the diaphragm/pressure plate and flywheel as they all seem fine? If so, does the assembly need to be rebalanced even though I'm just replacing the clutch plate? 

 

I would like to make the engine a little faster accelerating and I've read a lot about how lightening the flywheel and clutch set up can make considerable gains for both clutch types, especially pre verto. Having a verto clutch/inertia starter and the trade off with safety that verto lightening seems to come with, this kit from Minispares doesn't seem to be compatible (due to me having an inertia starter). Is there and equivalent for the inertia starter. Don't really fancy changing to pre-engaged if I can help it, if it isnt worth it I'll just do what I said in the paragraph above.

 

I'm definitely going to replace the clutch oil seal as the casing seems to be a little oily on the inside...

 

Hope all these questions make sense!

 

Many thanks,

Oli

 

 

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#2 proccy13

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Posted 29 October 2020 - 07:12 PM

Any ideas please?



#3 stoneface

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Posted 29 October 2020 - 08:05 PM

You need to fix the oil leak and replace the clutch plate as a minimum.

 

If just changing the clutch plate you don't need to get it balanced as the clutch plate is not fixed in the same position on the crank and can spin freely.

 

If you don't know the history of the engine you might want to get is balanced and if you go down the route of lightening then a balance is recommended. Depends on how far you plan to strip it down, or just fix the clutch and put it back on the road.

 

As for the differencies/benefits of a verto or pre-verto, other will be able to answer that better than me.

 



#4 proccy13

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Posted 30 October 2020 - 11:35 AM

Thanks stoneface. Gearbox is now off the fee as there is some idler gear wear in the aluminium housing so will sort the end float.

If anyone could help with answering the other questions that would be great please! Thanks

#5 KTS

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Posted 31 October 2020 - 08:44 PM

i'm not sure which minispares kit you're referring to, but a verto flywheel with an inertia starter ring is not, as far as i'm aware, a particularly common combination.

 

the starter ring is a shrink fit onto the flywheel so it should be possible to get that combination made up

 

if it's just the flywheel you're looking to replace (i.e. keep the existing pressure plate and boss), then you want to get the assembly balanced as a unit before you refit

 

alternatively you could look at on off-the-shelf solution from someone like MED 






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