Any Tips For Accessing Hard To Reach Flywheel Cover Bolts?
#1
Posted 24 November 2020 - 08:28 AM
#2
Posted 24 November 2020 - 09:10 AM
Nothing more than you have said other than you may find changing the angle of the wrench to allow better fit ant of the head.
#3
Posted 24 November 2020 - 09:39 AM
as you have said, i always have a set of crows feet as you never know.
Also you may be lucky and its been done before and the bolts are either not in place or the cover has been notched to allow removal without removing the whole bolt.
#4
Posted 24 November 2020 - 09:55 AM
#5
Posted 24 November 2020 - 10:20 AM
Bending a ring spanner can help, as can the 'old fashioned' type offset ring spanner or hinged box spanners
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.c...5/dp/B00LD3Z24M
Just depends what you have to hand really as buying something to then find they don't quite fit is particularly annoying!
Being a verto I presume it has the 7/16" AF headed screws rather than the 1/2" ones, which at least makes it a little easier.
#6
Posted 24 November 2020 - 10:21 AM
I seem to remember a ratchet spanner helping me, I got some in my halfords pro set. They're metric but they worked for me. They are a pain though, 1 click of the ratchet spanner at a time
#7
Posted 24 November 2020 - 01:09 PM
#8
Posted 24 November 2020 - 03:27 PM
#9
Posted 24 November 2020 - 03:34 PM
I remove the rad (side Rad on my Minis) and losen off the rad side engine mount bolts but do not take the bolt off the nut... then jack the flywheel side of the engine as high as it can go until the exhaust and or gear linkage just touches the floor of the car/// this give a bit more room around the wok.. the rest is as the guys above have said, I have used a small ratched with a U/J or wobble joint and it can be successful if using 3 /8 drive or smaller if you can get the correct socket size to fit the drive////
#10
Posted 24 November 2020 - 11:18 PM
On rally cars it is common to drill some 3/4" holes in the sub-frame web lining up with those bolts, so that a 3/8" sq drive 1/2" AF socket on a 5" extension bar will go through. The very back one is always difficult, but when you re-assemble and leave that bolt out. There are 7 others to provide the necessary strength.
#11
Posted 25 November 2020 - 12:22 AM
#12
Posted 25 November 2020 - 12:29 AM
Thanks for your help and insights guys, learning so much. I now have all the bolts out. The engine mount nut is just spinning so once I remove the engine mount nuts I'm hoping the wok comes off. The only problem I foresee at the minute is that I can't remove the flywheel cover bolts, as they foul on the body, and subframe when fully unscrewed. Even when lifting the engine, I imagine it would have to be lifted a good FT to allow for the bolts to come out.
You say you have the cover (wok) bolts out but then you say you foresee that you will not be able to remove them!
your terminology may be wrong.
after removing the wok there is only one bolt and keyed washer to remove before you pull the flywheel.
#13
Posted 25 November 2020 - 12:46 AM
#14
Posted 25 November 2020 - 01:38 AM
Got you.
#15
Posted 25 November 2020 - 07:16 AM
Thanks for your help and insights guys, learning so much. I now have all the bolts out. The engine mount nut is just spinning so once I remove the engine mount nuts I'm hoping the wok comes off. The only problem I foresee at the minute is that I can't remove the flywheel cover bolts, as they foul on the body, and subframe when fully unscrewed. Even when lifting the engine, I imagine it would have to be lifted a good FT to allow for the bolts to come out.
you may have to grind the head off the bolt if the captive nut in the engine mount is spinning.
when you jack up the engine the cover will come away and the 2 bolts should come with it.
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