7 replies to this topic

[Rob]

How tight should the ball joints be? E.g should you be able to move them very easily by hand? or should they be very tight to make sure theres no play when under the stresses of everyday use but still be able to move them with reasonable force?

[philster]

you just need them to be free of play, they should be movable by hand when you've shimmed them up, just remember to shim them with the spring out and then when you got it set right put the spring back in otherwise it gives a false indication as to how tight it is.

[Rob]

ahhhh. thats where ive gone wrong. ive alway shimed them with the springs in.
Doh!
Good thinking batman.

[Bluemini]

You should be able to feel them just binding without any springs or grease. Once they are right, take em apart, put the spring in and grease em up. Its a slow process, but makes all the differance if done right.

[dklawson]

If these are new ball joints (and in particular if they are "aftermarket", non-Rover parts) you may wish to take some additional steps.

As stated, the shimming is done without the springs in place. However, before you even think about the shims do the following. Clean and degrease the ball, seat, and nut. Coat the ball (all over) with a thin film of valve lapping compound, fit to the seat followed by the nut finger tight. Use an electric drill (at low speed) to rotate the ball while you articulate the joint. Reapply compound periodically and continually check and re-tighten the nut. When you've got "matte" surfaces indicating all the parts are making good contact, disassemble the parts and COMPLETELY clean them. After all traces of the lapping compound are gone shim/adjust the joints as normal. This will guarantee a good fit that will stay in adjustment for a long time.

[philster]

If these are new ball joints (and in particular if they are "aftermarket", non-Rover parts) you may wish to take some additional steps.

As stated, the shimming is done without the springs in place. However, before you even think about the shims do the following. Clean and degrease the ball, seat, and nut. Coat the ball (all over) with a thin film of valve lapping compound, fit to the seat followed by the nut finger tight. Use an electric drill (at low speed) to rotate the ball while you articulate the joint. Reapply compound periodically and continually check and re-tighten the nut. When you've got "matte" surfaces indicating all the parts are making good contact, disassemble the parts and COMPLETELY clean them. After all traces of the lapping compound are gone shim/adjust the joints as normal. This will guarantee a good fit that will stay in adjustment for a long time.

that sounds like a good tip.

[Rob]

Thanks alot guys.

[TimS]

sounds very good, very thorough... i had a prblem when one of the lock washers gave up on mine and the body undid untill one day it fell off when i was booting it round a roundabout... it wasnt a pritty sight and i still have the dinted A pannels 2day