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#1 koss

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 11:10 PM

Heres a question, might only apply to injection or r1s.

With the engine running at idle when i push the reverse button the engine cuts out, probly due to voltage drop to the ecu or fuel pump.
So to overcome this i put some revs on while reversing but some times it still cuts out
also i have noticed that when it has been reversed with the engine running the ecu has a mind of its own afterwards(i mean it either wont idle or it starts to race @2/3k revs) until i switch every thing off and restart it then its back to normal.

any one had this problem ?

#2 Bungle

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 11:15 PM

could you use 2 batterys with some sort of a split charge system ?

#3 koss

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 11:34 PM

could you use 2 batterys with some sort of a split charge system ?

I would prefer to use one battery (600A) just for space and weight

what i realy need to know is the voltage drop affecting the ecu or the fuel system or the ignition system so i can put a large capacitor on the problem

#4 Bungle

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 11:36 PM

a capacitor was going to be my next sugestion

cant help with anything else as i'm not a Z cars owner

#5 koss

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 11:42 PM

a capacitor was going to be my next sugestion

cant help with anything else as i'm not a Z cars owner

Yes i thought a capacitor with a diode to stop the curent going backovers

Maybe i should post this in the electronic section :-

#6 Bungle

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 11:45 PM

my electronics is a bit rusty but :-

i don't think you need a diode, the capacitor discharges to fills the gaps when the voltage drops

#7 koss

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Posted 19 December 2006 - 11:53 PM

But being in reverse for a while will surely discharge the capacitor so hence the diode to only allow the ecu to discharge it

#8 Ade

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Posted 20 December 2006 - 12:20 AM

To answer the original question yes I have exactly the same thing happen on mine (2003 R1 inj) all we did was change the set-up so that the engine isn't running when reverse is engaged.

As for the idling afterwards I found this only happens when there has been heavy use of the reverse or if you've been using the reverse with a host of other ancilleries (fuel pump ignition etc)

Ade

#9 koss

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Posted 20 December 2006 - 12:36 AM

Cheers ade
Just trying to sort it so i can leave the engine running .
Its a bit of a clart on switching the engine off every time.

A mate of mine described the reverse sounding like a tram, with the ding then the wirrrr lol

#10 pete

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Posted 20 December 2006 - 08:20 PM

I believe the ecu will cut out below a certain voltage. When I first built mine with a fully charged battery it would go backwards with the engine running. Then after a while it stopped doing it. Haven't had any idleing problems yet but I am using quite a big car battery.

Pete

#11 koss

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 05:30 AM

I believe the ecu will cut out below a certain voltage. When I first built mine with a fully charged battery it would go backwards with the engine running. Then after a while it stopped doing it. Haven't had any idleing problems yet but I am using quite a big car battery.

Pete

Pete is yours injected ?

I have 600ah battery. I wired mine so you have to have the ignition on for reverse to work and i have noticed sometimes it will not start after reversing unless i turn the ignition off then back on.(ecu reset) So i figure that i need to keep the voltage maintained for the ecu.
Hence a large capacitor with a diode. A large capacitor will store the voltage and a diode will stop current traveling away from the ecu a bit like a none return valve.
Going to get the bits today to experiment

koss

#12 pete

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 09:40 PM

Mine is an injection same as Ade's, it's just the battery thats different. Don't know what power it is but it's designed for a 2.0l carlton automatic. Bit overkill but I got it cheap :w00t: .

Pete

#13 koss

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 10:43 PM

Bit overkill, I used a standard mini one first, now using a transit 2.5di one :w00t:
Any way i have sorted a capacitor, a big one its the same size as a can of beer, i think it will do the job, it might mean i can go back to the standard mini battery.
Its getting close to crimbo so i will not know if its going to work for a few days yet.
should do i hope :'(

#14 z cars chris

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Posted 25 December 2006 - 12:39 PM

i think you will find that the engine stops because the reverse pulls such a big current from the battery that it drops down to 8 volts approx and the bike ecu wont fire the spark plugs below 9 volts usually
we find that the red top varley 30 cures this as they have such a big reserve of power that the volts dont drop off and the engine keeps running
i would be interested to see how your little mod goes though and what does it cost
a battery from us is £105 plus vat so it may be still cheaper to fit one big capacity battery if you havent already got one for the project
chris

#15 koss

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Posted 26 December 2006 - 01:18 AM

Hi chris
I will be experimenting with this in a few days, my theory is, three main circuits.
Engine management, ignition and fuel injection all running the engine.
The first problem i noticed when using reverse was that it cut out. If it didnt cut out it started running strange afterwards, so i think the voltage drop is effecting the ecu as it returns to normal running after a reset.

It may also be as you say, the voltage to the coils or the fuel system. So i will start with the ecu first and if need be do the same to the other circuits

Capacitors are fairly cheap and i like experimenting. Just thinking of solenoid gear changers etc.
I will post the results

Cheers Ian




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