Zcars frt. subby problem.
#16
Posted 20 January 2007 - 01:09 PM
Cheers ...........Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee............
#17
Posted 20 January 2007 - 02:10 PM
Just beneath where you type in your thread is a area called attachments, just browse to your picture/s and upload, if your struggling send them to [email protected]
Cheers
David
Edited by R1mini, 20 January 2007 - 02:15 PM.
#18
Posted 20 January 2007 - 10:41 PM
#19
Posted 20 January 2007 - 10:44 PM
Attached Files
#20
Posted 20 January 2007 - 10:49 PM
#21
Posted 21 January 2007 - 12:20 PM
My frame is different I have the same bars coming across the top of the bolt as you but my shockers are behind the tank and I have a different top balljoint attachment, yours looks like machined aluminium alloy and mine is a welded steel assembly, your attachment is deeper than mine, looks about 4~5 mm higher and because of that, not a huge amount I know, but gives another 10mm extra movement at the wheel end.
The hemi joint is like you say will bind just before it touches anyway, well on mine one side does and one doesn't, so I need to look into that see what's happening, to me it would be easy to sort, turn the joint through 90 degrees and mount it in double sheer, very easy and eliminates any possibilty of it ever binding and maybe move the top bar of the subframe another 25mm up, to remove any possibility of the upper suspension hitting the underside, especially for the people who want to run the car very low, I can't see any reason why this couldn't be done unless ZCars have other plans for the frame
Cheers
David
Edited by R1mini, 21 January 2007 - 01:18 PM.
#22
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:31 PM
Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee...........
#23
Posted 21 January 2007 - 07:58 PM
I think I have misunderstood your problem, are you having the clearance problem between the alloy machined cantilever bit, one end bolts to the coil over and the other to the drop link, in which case your wheels need to be the correct offset to suit this frame, just to get it clear in my mind if you were to mount the wheel with a wheel spacer would that give the clearance your after, I'm not suggesting you put spacers on it's just for clarity of the problem
This frame is of the later style so it shouldn't be a prototype, the coil over was moved to make it easier to adjust, the suspension points are I believe identical, you shouldn't have much in the way of bump steer either, so I'm not sure whats going on with that, I can see your rack is now hanging there with no support, what makes you think you have bad bump steer enough to make you want to move suspension mounting points?
Cheers
David
#24
Posted 22 January 2007 - 10:49 PM
i cant help thinking soethings not in right or perhaps your wheels have a weird offset we have had no real trouble with clearence at all im perplexed (and that takes some spelling)
can you e mail me some photos of where and whats going on it may be simpler that way
chris
#25
Posted 22 January 2007 - 10:58 PM
i didnt realise you were removing the bulkhead and re mounting the rack
what i suggest you do is firstly get the front caster and camber set up correctly then look at the position of the rack the height of the rack should be the same as it was in the original car and it should be in the same position forward and back in the chassis
you can get this by measuring an original mini or by trial and error moving the rack about and lifting the wheel up and down thru its arc without the spring on the shock
i guess if the offset is wrong on the front wheels then as david said a few washers or a spacer would sort that out just to get a feel of that being the problem or not
any problems call me or put it on here and i will try help
chris
#26
Posted 23 January 2007 - 02:35 AM
Cheers and no worry...............Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee............
#27
Posted 24 February 2007 - 04:35 PM
Willie, are you confidantly familiar with the theory of bump steer,?? and how to cure it??.Thanks Chris and Richard,,,,I'll try and sort this out on my own....And I will send ya some pic's and contact ya....As far as rack monuting points I'm going ta move er up a bit so the geometry will be right...What I'm trying to achieve here is equal length between the rack and the upper and lower controll arms so the tire contact patch well be better....It seems the way it was the tire would be moving up and down wrongly enough to cause terrible bump steer.....I will send you some before and after pic's......
Cheers and no worry...............Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee............
carl
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