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Zcars frt. subby problem.


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#16 Willie

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Posted 20 January 2007 - 01:09 PM

R1mini.....If I send ya some pic's will you please post um for me...Or just let me know how to post um...I have a bit of trouble in that department as well....

Cheers ...........Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee............

#17 R1mini

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Posted 20 January 2007 - 02:10 PM

Willie,
Just beneath where you type in your thread is a area called attachments, just browse to your picture/s and upload, if your struggling send them to [email protected]

Cheers
David

Edited by R1mini, 20 January 2007 - 02:15 PM.


#18 Willie

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Posted 20 January 2007 - 10:41 PM

Attached File  DCP_0922.JPG   134.73K   41 downloadsAttached File  DCP_0922.JPG   134.73K   41 downloadsAttached File  DCP_0921.JPG   148.13K   24 downloadsCP_0921.JPG]Attached File  DCP_0920.JPG   144.45K   25 downloadsAttached File  DCP_0919.JPG   200.68K   28 downloadsWell I'm trying....Is there a pic for ya ????

#19 Willie

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Posted 20 January 2007 - 10:44 PM

Tying it all together...Monty Zcars ???? Willieeeeeeeeeeee's

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#20 Willie

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Posted 20 January 2007 - 10:49 PM

At least now I can remove the body from the carcass...When I get the front subby and susp. sorted out we should be good ta go...450 plus hp on pump gas stage 2 ITS turbo....Should make for an interesting ride...Bahahahahahha!!!! Hang on Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee..!!!!!!! :-

#21 R1mini

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 12:20 PM

Looking at your front suspension Willie, it looks like the wheel/tyre would be through the arches before any contact would have happened between the bolt head and frame, remember that bolt head is about half way along the effective suspension to wheel ratio so the suspension movement at the outside edge of the wheel will be approx double what you have there, I would of thought more than enough for a mini.

My frame is different I have the same bars coming across the top of the bolt as you but my shockers are behind the tank and I have a different top balljoint attachment, yours looks like machined aluminium alloy and mine is a welded steel assembly, your attachment is deeper than mine, looks about 4~5 mm higher and because of that, not a huge amount I know, but gives another 10mm extra movement at the wheel end.

The hemi joint is like you say will bind just before it touches anyway, well on mine one side does and one doesn't, so I need to look into that see what's happening, to me it would be easy to sort, turn the joint through 90 degrees and mount it in double sheer, very easy and eliminates any possibilty of it ever binding and maybe move the top bar of the subframe another 25mm up, to remove any possibility of the upper suspension hitting the underside, especially for the people who want to run the car very low, I can't see any reason why this couldn't be done unless ZCars have other plans for the frame

Cheers
David

Edited by R1mini, 21 January 2007 - 01:18 PM.


#22 Willie

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:31 PM

Yep,,,,Thats what I'm a doing...Moving the upper bar up,,,Straighting out the hime joint,,,,I might have to move the rack up a bit as well along with remounting the lower controll arm pivot mounting brackets to resolve some of this confusing geometry thats set up in this....The way it was bump steer would have been just to silly....Now I don't know if this was a proto type Zcars was testing on and just sent it to me hoping I would just go with it....Theres grind marks all over it like they were testing mounting points or what ever...However my 3 peice Superlites 175-50-13's foul on the cantilever bolts allready ???? What gives....I would have thought for that kind of money it would be plug and play and I would'nt have had to have gone through all this time and more money out of my pocket to correct something that allready should have been sorted from the get ???????............
Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee...........

#23 R1mini

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 07:58 PM

Willie,
I think I have misunderstood your problem, are you having the clearance problem between the alloy machined cantilever bit, one end bolts to the coil over and the other to the drop link, in which case your wheels need to be the correct offset to suit this frame, just to get it clear in my mind if you were to mount the wheel with a wheel spacer would that give the clearance your after, I'm not suggesting you put spacers on it's just for clarity of the problem

This frame is of the later style so it shouldn't be a prototype, the coil over was moved to make it easier to adjust, the suspension points are I believe identical, you shouldn't have much in the way of bump steer either, so I'm not sure whats going on with that, I can see your rack is now hanging there with no support, what makes you think you have bad bump steer enough to make you want to move suspension mounting points?

Cheers
David

#24 z cars chris

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Posted 22 January 2007 - 10:49 PM

willie richards posted your dvd and the other bits out
i cant help thinking soethings not in right or perhaps your wheels have a weird offset we have had no real trouble with clearence at all im perplexed (and that takes some spelling)
can you e mail me some photos of where and whats going on it may be simpler that way
chris

#25 z cars chris

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Posted 22 January 2007 - 10:58 PM

willie ive just found some pics earlier on the thread
i didnt realise you were removing the bulkhead and re mounting the rack
what i suggest you do is firstly get the front caster and camber set up correctly then look at the position of the rack the height of the rack should be the same as it was in the original car and it should be in the same position forward and back in the chassis
you can get this by measuring an original mini or by trial and error moving the rack about and lifting the wheel up and down thru its arc without the spring on the shock
i guess if the offset is wrong on the front wheels then as david said a few washers or a spacer would sort that out just to get a feel of that being the problem or not
any problems call me or put it on here and i will try help
chris

#26 Willie

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Posted 23 January 2007 - 02:35 AM

Thanks Chris and Richard,,,,I'll try and sort this out on my own....And I will send ya some pic's and contact ya....As far as rack monuting points I'm going ta move er up a bit so the geometry will be right...What I'm trying to achieve here is equal length between the rack and the upper and lower controll arms so the tire contact patch well be better....It seems the way it was the tire would be moving up and down wrongly enough to cause terrible bump steer.....I will send you some before and after pic's......
Cheers and no worry...............Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee............

#27 fastcarl

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Posted 24 February 2007 - 04:35 PM

Thanks Chris and Richard,,,,I'll try and sort this out on my own....And I will send ya some pic's and contact ya....As far as rack monuting points I'm going ta move er up a bit so the geometry will be right...What I'm trying to achieve here is equal length between the rack and the upper and lower controll arms so the tire contact patch well be better....It seems the way it was the tire would be moving up and down wrongly enough to cause terrible bump steer.....I will send you some before and after pic's......
Cheers and no worry...............Willieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee............

Willie, are you confidantly familiar with the theory of bump steer,?? and how to cure it??.

carl




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