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CBR 1000 into back of mini


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#1 stevenford_uk

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 10:58 PM

building the complete kit myself, its the older CBR 1000, about 130bhp
shouldn't take too long once i have the diff sorted.

#2 Teapot

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 11:00 PM

Phew what a relief, I thought from the title there'd been a nasty collision :D

#3 Bungle

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 11:04 PM

[email protected]

#4 stevenford_uk

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 07:01 PM

this project is now getting underway properly after a load of setbacks.
over the next few weeks i am ordering all the steel so i can make up the space frame for it.
and i am using a std metro turbo diff that being heavily modified by me to take the bike sprocket etc.

i am aiming to get it done for the mini showdown in oct.
but i think with the time i have got space that could be a bit optomistic.
i can but try.

#5 binge

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 08:34 PM

We also want pictures! :-

#6 stevenford_uk

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 11:28 PM

as soon as i get some eventful progress ill post some pics, i am currently doing the diff, but i want to build it in such a way so that if i blow the diff i can just slip off the housing and replace the internals instead of having to make a complete new setup.

#7 stevenford_uk

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 12:15 AM

i have just been readiung through a couple of posts on here about the different diffs used in the bike conversions and i am getting the impression that most peeps effectivly use a disposable diff, completly sealed just packed with grease and oil.
this looks like a very quick easy and cheap way of doing it but surely it must wear them out faster.

i have looked at the zcars diffs and they seem to be similar, they are a normal lsd just cased in and welded up with 2 main supporting bearings.

is this really all that is needed for a day to day car or would it be worthwhile me designing a diff that can be removed from the casing to be replaced when it goes pop.?

#8 fikus01

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 11:12 AM

welding up the diff to seal it and filling it with heavy oil or grease shudnt wear on it too hard, isnt it the pin that usually fails anyhow due to 1 wheel spinning more than the other? a bike lump shudnt have so much torque that it would snap a planet grear! maybe fit some grease nipples in strategic places so u can make sure the pin gets a good grease every now and then!

Edited by fikus01, 01 April 2007 - 11:12 AM.


#9 $way

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 11:45 AM

another wicked project on the pages of tmf.

ill be keeping an eye on this.

J

#10 stevenford_uk

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 05:48 PM

i have found a very very useful webpage for anyone considering doing a bike engine conversion.

http://images.google...h...en&safe=off

Edited by stevenford_uk, 01 April 2007 - 05:55 PM.


#11 stevenford_uk

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 03:44 PM

been looking into the chassis design and i have decided to incorporate the rear cage/engine support with a full cage/partial spaceframe, using unequal double wishbones at the back and std at the front.
the trailing arm setup gets a lot of camber change through the bends, wheras the unequal double wishbone setup minimises the camber change and is also very compact.
i am using the std mini diff, driveshafts and front hubs, so should not be too complex to get the track, camber and tracking sorted/fully adjustable.
diff will be mounted dead center with the engine offset to the drivers side to align the sprocket.
only problem is the engine will have to be quite far forward to accomodate the wishbone setup so it will be mid mounted and close to the seats, which is no real major issue but does mean the chain will have to be slightly longer than i wanted, so i will have to make a tensioner setup to cope with that, i ahve been thinking about possible using a tensionner gear/wheel thats spring loaded as well as the adjustable engine mounts.
anyone got any ideas about the tensionner issue??

Edited by stevenford_uk, 19 April 2007 - 03:49 PM.


#12 Jammy

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 04:03 PM

If you can I'd try and alter the front suspension some how to eliminate bump steer.

#13 stevenford_uk

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 05:44 PM

could convert it to coilovers and remove areas of subframe thats not needed, once thats done i could prob make a new front subframe using double wishbones again, keeping the lower ones flat when on the deck and i could lower the steering rack to reduce the steering arm angle, maybe fit the track rod ends upside down if i reem out the balljoint mounts. should solve it i think.
but i am concentrating on the back end more so at the moment. i will however be attaching the rollcage through the bulkhead to the the front of the front subframe to stiffen everything up more.

#14 stevenford_uk

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Posted 20 April 2007 - 05:17 PM

will now be on hold again for the moment, last night i went out for a blast in my throttle bodied mazda mx5 and it decided it would be a good time to destroy a piston ring.
so i now have to rebuild that engine which leaves me with no money for the mini at the moment.

#15 stevenford_uk

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Posted 27 June 2007 - 07:10 PM

project has fallen through unfortunatly, the place i was storing the shell until i fin uni for summer has told me i have to shift it asap, and i have nowhere else to do it, so unfortunatly the cbr plan is outta the window as it would take a fair while to do it nice. so its goin metro turbo instead and whilst its on the road i can start modding the rear end for use with the bike lump. (ie, build the interior parts of the cage to mount the engine then cut the floor and mount suspension etc) just gotta keep it mobile whilst i am doin it.
proper sucks!




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