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MPI not starting


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#1 vblack

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 01:59 AM

I used the search but haven't found anything that helped. My battery went flat on my MPI. I had a new one put in and now the car won't start with the key. If you cross the wires on the starter it will turn the engine over. It will also bump start. I have used a meter on all the fuses, checked all connections. The starter is not getting power when using the key. While checking everything I discovered my boot switch is broken, the internal parts are gone and the wire (thin purple with pink tracer) is just hanging there with a spade connector sticking out of it. Could this be causing a problem with the alarm, not allowing the car to start? If so does anyone know where I can get a switch?

Also, in the boot near the right tail light there are 2 more wires not connected to anything. One is blue with a yellow trace and the other is black. Both have male connectors. Should these be connected to something?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Edited by vblack, 09 February 2007 - 02:03 AM.


#2 Dan

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 02:10 AM

The switch is the same as a door switch and those wires are for a LHD foglamp, or an extra foglamp if you want two. Although the unused ones should be on the left, are you in Britain?

The lack of a boot switch won't be causing the problem as the switch earths when the boot is open, if it's not connected to anything then the alarm thinks the boot is shut.

Sometimes when batteries run completely flat on cars with ECUs you run into coding problems when you turn them on again. How long was it without power? Sprocket will know more.

Edited by Dan, 09 February 2007 - 02:12 AM.


#3 pinch

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 09:39 AM

my friends mpi works with a busted boot switch. i take it you've pressed the unlock/de-immobilise buton 4 times in quick succession to re-syncronise the key fob with the car?

#4 Dev

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 01:16 PM

If the ECU is disconneted for any period longer than about 30 mins it needs to be reset.

This can be done by turning the key to pos 2 i think then pressing the accelertor 10 times.

Also have you check the fuel cut off relay hasnt been triggered?

#5 vblack

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 03:44 AM

Thanks Guys for the responses.

Dan thanks for clearing up the questions about the wiring, and boot switch. In answer to your question. I am in the US. The car is LHD and was without power for a couple of weeks. You mentioned coding problems. Is that the computer, immobilizer, etc?

I just tried the keyfob and accelerator suggestions and no change. I can hear a click of sorts from a black box up near the bulkhead it has 2 bundles of wires. The dash lights come on. The alarm seems to arm and disarm and if the red light is flashing on the dash it won't bump start. Once I shut it off with the key fob then it bump starts.

Edited by vblack, 10 February 2007 - 03:48 AM.


#6 Dev

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 01:31 PM

sounds like DIS pack might have gone.

#7 vblack

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 10:02 PM

Minidev this is my first classic Mini so overlook my ignorance :( What's the DIS pack? How do I check it?

#8 AlexM

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Posted 11 February 2007 - 12:56 PM

DIS = Distributorless Ignition system

In place of a distributor. A black box from which the Ignition leads will run into. Although dont jump to conclusions, there are other things it could be.

#9 Sprocket

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Posted 11 February 2007 - 03:33 PM

Dev, didnt you experience problems like this??

One thing you should check and is very important, the ECU earth point. Make sure it is in good clean condition. If its not, there can a voltage drop across this causing all sorts of problems, one documented one is failure to start but turns over.

This earth point can be found on the cross member behind the ECU on the triagular suport bracket, there will be two ring crimps both with black wires. The bolt is an 8mm head. Clean the surfaces and the threads of the bolt back to bright metal use some petrolium jelly on the threads of the bolt. If there are other accessories fitted and earthed at this point, relocate them it will play havoc with the ECU.

#10 Dev

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Posted 11 February 2007 - 10:11 PM

Yeah i did, but mine was a bit of incorrect wiring.

basically i wired a cable direct to the starter that should have been to the coil and cooked the ECU. but this car is starting with a bump mine wouldn't so i am ruling that out for now.

Vblack where are you?

the dis is the black box at the front as summergnu said. remove a plug and see if you are getting spark?

#11 cooper_shaz

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 05:02 PM

Thanks Guys for the responses.

The dash lights come on. The alarm seems to arm and disarm and if the red light is flashing on the dash it won't bump start. Once I shut it off with the key fob then it bump starts.


red light flashing means the immobiliser is active, so it will not start..

after this light is out, i.e. key fob pressed if ti bump starts, then ecu is fine, your looking at a problem on the starting circuit.

Starter relay, wires to starter, or starter..
have you tried checking the starter to see you have 12v there when trying to crank it over ?

if you have 12 v..
bridge the 2 positive connections and see if the starter spins (make sure car is out of gear first)
if it spins starter is fine and it may be the solenoid, if this clicks (solenoid) when trying to start then it could be the connections in the solenoid.

#12 vblack

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Posted 01 March 2007 - 06:37 PM

Hi Guys

I know it's been a while, but ...

The GREAT!!! news is IT'S WORKING!!!!! YES!!!!!

While checking the things you all suggested. We discovered a wire to the starter was unplugged. Once we put it back the car started right up without a problem and is starting every time now.

THANKS TO ALL OF YOU!!!!




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