52 replies to this topic

[1984mini25]

I've tried painting my car with rattle cans and although it turned out ok I wasn't 100% happy with it, so i have now gone with the rollering method and stuck to rattle cans for the bumpers, wheel arches and other bits of trim.

[Dog]

I still might rattle can my Mini yet!

But mine is having a loads of prep!
Starting with a bare metal shell, and building the layers up... I've worked it out should take me about 2-3months to rattle can it... allowing 1 week per layer to harden and go off, before flatting back etc... I've got about 11 layers going onto my Mini...

[bert998]

I still might rattle can my Mini yet!

But mine is having a loads of prep!
Starting with a bare metal shell, and building the layers up... I've worked it out should take me about 2-3months to rattle can it... allowing 1 week per layer to harden and go off, before flatting back etc... I've got about 11 layers going onto my Mini...

11 layers, with rattle cans??? that'd cost a fortune

[Dog]

well let me break that up to whats what...

Metal - plain bare metal, cleaned, degrease ready to rock - (FREE)
Grey primer - rubbed back to see where slight dips are (£2)
Filler into the slight dips - rub back
Zinc prime - once cured rubbed back (£1.76)
Zinc again - once cured rub back (£1.76)
Filler Prime - once cured rub back (£4)
Depending on finish another layer of filler primer maybe needed
Grey Primer - once cured rub back (£2)
Grey Primer - once cured rub back (£2)
Grey Primer - once cured rub back (£2)
Colour coat - rub back once cured (Still working out cost)
Colour coat - rub back once cured (Still working out cost)
Top coat - rub back once cured (Still working out cost)

Rub back with ultrafine wet n dry, then G3, stand back, and enjoy... while watching out of seagulls, and homing missile poo!

[Retro_10s]

Only two colour coats and one laquer (i assume laquer's what you mean by 'top coat'...?)

I would increase both of those when using rattle cans.. don't forget once you've put two coats on and then flat it back... you're left with something like 1 - 1.75 coats, so you need to build up the colour layers more...... more like 3-4 layers of colour, and 2-3 laquer coats.. as you'll have to wet and dry the laquer to get it smooth after it's cured before cutting it back, which gets rid of even more laquer. Since it's the laquer protecting the paint... you want more than one coat.

effectively you'll have about two good coats of colour left on the car after all the flatting etc to get it ready for laquer.

Edited by Retro_10s, 28 February 2007 - 09:25 PM.

[Dog]

Nope no lacquer.

I just mean a wet coat as the top coat, something that needs to have an amazing finish to start with...

of coase, I will not just be doing one coat of each... it'll be more around 2-3coats per panel... I am going work by per panel, as its easier for me...

[Retro_10s]

ah i see, I thought your break down of 'what to do' was a 'layer by layer' list. I thought you'd lost it Dog!

[Dog]

noooo!
Not at all Mike, I'm still tempted to all the prep.. as in prime the lot etc right up to where all it needs is colour, and take it up the paint shop, and get them to blow over a couple of layers, and get them to finish it off

only cost a pennies then, as all the primers I can get via work, and cost price which is normally something like 85% off list price...

[wobblybob]

a bodyshops idea of prep and other ppls can be completly different, seen alot that say its ready to paint, dont know how many "pennies" u think ur gona pay for the colour but dont expect it to be a drive in blast over drive out heres 50 in ur pocket,

[Retro_10s]

that's a fair point to make actually mate, no matter how much prep you do, and even if the car's perfect and ready for paint.... the bodyshop will give it a once over unless you specifically tell them not to.

[Dog]

No I am not expecting to get a paint job for £50 lol
I'm willing to part with up to £500 for the top coat!

obv - I know it won't be that much, but still, I don't mind paying that much for it...

[cooper_shaz]

Ok
here is one i did ....!

Used rattle cans for priming, paint and laquer..

the finish you see here is straight from the can no polish



This was a challenge by a couple of friends (you can see them in the reflection) to see if
I can paint with cans as well as proper gear. The results are below.. It actually turned out
to have more of a shine that the other panels.. and that was before a polish up.



So yes, it is possible to get a finish of good quality with rattle cans..

6 light layers of metalic British racing green (To ensure no patches)
and 6 coats of laquer.. in total it was 4 cans of green £3 each and 3 laquer £3 each..

Door and A panel painted for £30 inc primer.. and that included blending paint into the rear quarter.

Why so many coats ?... because with a can the paint goes on thin.

To do the whole car, I would reckon £120 with a decent amount of paint on it..

[Tomf]

Please can someone tell me how to stop orrange peal.

[supastu]

thats how im going to do it thanks for the help

[cooper_shaz]

Please can someone tell me how to stop orrange peal.

Orange peel occurs when you put too much paint on at once.

To prevent it you need to use less paint..

Use a test panel and spray a light coat, it will look sandy and not have much of a shine
if you spray a heavy coat, it will shine and probably run / orange peel as it dries.

You want to spray enough paint so that when it is on the panel, it is JUST starting to shine. The paint flows out and the shine will appear.

Give it a few mins, until it has gone from wet (just sprayed) to a little tacky (sticky)
then apply another light coat, this will flow into the last coat, (called flashing off)

If you build a few layers like this you should nto get the orange peel effect.

It is not that easy to explain... so ask away if it is not clear.

hope that helps