15 replies to this topic

[nik1966]

hi,anybody got any ideas,doing , yes another z cars mini with a gsxr 1000 engine.i can get it to crank ok ,but no spark or injectior pulse????????????

[markrally]

hi,anybody got any ideas,doing , yes another z cars mini with a gsxr 1000 engine.i can get it to crank ok ,but no spark or injectior pulse????????????

Sounds like the tilt sensor, Have you packed it with plasticine to stop the ball bearing rolling around? or have you used the resistor in the wiring loom to get round the suzuki anti theft circuitry?
Who done the loom?


Cheers

[Ade]

Don't know if it's the same for the GSX-R but I had exactly the same thing on my R1 engine and it was missing a crank sensor.......... Looked like the scrappy decided to sell it before selling the engine?!?

[nik1966]

hi,anybody got any ideas,doing , yes another z cars mini with a gsxr 1000 engine.i can get it to crank ok ,but no spark or injectior pulse????????????

Sounds like the tilt sensor, Have you packed it with plasticine to stop the ball bearing rolling around? or have you used the resistor in the wiring loom to get round the suzuki anti theft circuitry?
Who done the loom?

i,ve taken out tilt sensor and bridged wires with a resister to give the 2.5 volt output required. what resister? and what suzuki anti theft circuit.
i,m doing the loom well maybe !!! thanks nick

[nik1966]

Just wanted to say thanks for the suggestions. I've tried all but have resorted to having to purchase a new ECU from a salvage yard as it seems mine is damaged

Hopefully when it arrives I can get moving on this project and get the engine running

I'll let you know.

Thanks again

Edited by nik1966, 16 March 2007 - 10:59 AM.

[nik1966]

Just wanted to say thanks for the suggestions. I've tried all but have resorted to having to purchase a new ECU from a salvage yard as it seems mine is damaged

Hopefully when it arrives I can get moving on this project and get the engine running

I'll let you know.

Thanks again

Hi,still cant get it to fire.It cant be 2 faulty modules?,i,ve taken loom off engine and checked continuity of all mudule wires, all seem good.CPS sensor producing A/C output but still no fuel pump prime or spark.

Can anyone help,somebody must now how to wire these engines ??? its baffling me.

Thanks

[markrally]

who done the loom for you?
Whereabouts are you?
I did my loom myself with a quick call to chris to check out the colours before i powered it up.
it cant be much different from a busa loom.

cheers

[nik1966]

who done the loom for you?
Whereabouts are you?
I did my loom myself with a quick call to chris to check out the colours before i powered it up.
it cant be much different from a busa loom.

cheers

I,m doing the loom myself,well trying to.
I live near Bristol,i agree it must be very close to a Busa loom,do tou have any diagrams how you did yours??

The rest of the car is really coming together ,this not firing is doing my head in!!

thanks Nick

[pete]

who done the loom for you?
Whereabouts are you?
I did my loom myself with a quick call to chris to check out the colours before i powered it up.
it cant be much different from a busa loom.

cheers

I,m doing the loom myself,well trying to.
I live near Bristol,i agree it must be very close to a Busa loom,do tou have any diagrams how you did yours??

The rest of the car is really coming together ,this not firing is doing my head in!!

thanks Nick

Nick or Mark,
What was the problem with the wireing. Started doing Andy's and got the same problem. Spoke to Chris at z-cars who mentioned a 100 ohm resistor but still no luck. It's a k4 engine and doesn't appear to have had an anti-theft device fitted as standard as there isn't any wireing for it.

Cheers
Pete

[koss]

This may be of some help or it could be utter garbage. I have never had a gsxr 1000.

This is for a race harness for Suzuki's so just do the steps you need to for firing it up:


Parts:

100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108
18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors)
Electrical Tape

I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and
a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how
one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring:

Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)):

O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) --

Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch):

Br (Brown) - Tail Light
B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground
Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn
O (Orange) - Ignition
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan
O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU
R (Red) - Power (+12v)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removal:

The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be
modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and
disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring
harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar.
The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the
radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a
clamp to get the harnesses free.

To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp
and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct
Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right
clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables
from the cluster.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Key Switch Harness Modification:

This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from
the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are
slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires
to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire.
Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and
B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2"
for now.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification:

The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch
normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming
out of the harness connected to the kill switch.

In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B
and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and
the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness
from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the
"Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire
at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the
Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to
the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire
hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to
insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Putting it All Together:

Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main
wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch
harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch
cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the
right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered
connection.

Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an
unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect
the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from
the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate
all of the connections.

Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in
again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on
and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just
about done.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finishing Up:

Reinstall the right clip-on switch cluster and clean up the wiring harness
connections.

That's it......

[pete]

Thanks for that Koss. I've gone a bit further than that by removing any excess wires(eg lights) but your explanation does appear to match what i've done with those wires. Still no spark though . Did you get that from a website and was there any other info on it?

Pete

[koss]

Pete, I got that info a while back for someone building a trike. I cannot remember where it was from but there was no more info.

[koss]

Been having a bit more think. Double check the tilt switch. gear position switch and the clutch switch.
Now I don't know if your harness has/had a side stand relay As they have diodes in them for some reason.
Lastly they don't have a chipped key on a K4 do they?

[pete]

Been having a bit more think. Double check the tilt switch. gear position switch and the clutch switch.
Now I don't know if your harness has/had a side stand relay As they have diodes in them for some reason.
Lastly they don't have a chipped key on a K4 do they?

Cheers for the help Koss. Been chatting to Markrally tonight and he suggested the same things so will be trying again tomorrow. Will let you know how it goes. Don't think they have a chipped key as nothing in the manual suggests it does and we didn't get an ignition lock or key with the harness so hope it doesn't.

Pete

[Spoonz]

Nick or Mark,
What was the problem with the wireing. Started doing Andy's and got the same problem. Spoke to Chris at z-cars who mentioned a 100 ohm resistor but still no luck. It's a k4 engine and doesn't appear to have had an anti-theft device fitted as standard as there isn't any wireing for it.

Cheers
Pete
[/quote]



THIS QUOTE IS CORRECT. i had the same problem, runs sweet now,