Hi a friend of mine is wanting to fit vented discs and 4 pot callipers from a Metro to his 1991 Cooper.
I did this conversion years ago, but have sine changed my brakes & i can't for the life of me remember what parts from the Metro and what parts from the Mini i need to use. I've searched the net to no avail.
What i need is a list of the parts required.
Cheers
Phil. :grin:
Metro vented disc conversion
Started by
Turbo Phil
, Oct 23 2004 06:11 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 23 October 2004 - 06:11 PM
#2
Posted 23 October 2004 - 08:37 PM
You need to use the metro hubs, callipers, bolts, discs and go buy the hose converter available from most minispares stockists.
#3
Posted 23 October 2004 - 09:35 PM
Doesn't changing the hubs change the suspension geometry... ??
Only reason I ask is, that a mate has just picked up a project on which are situated metro 4 pots. As yet were still try to find out what's there and missing in the box of bits, but were intending on going back to standard 8.4's... but If part of the conversion is changing the hubs aswell then may aswell stay with the 4 pots
Only reason I ask is, that a mate has just picked up a project on which are situated metro 4 pots. As yet were still try to find out what's there and missing in the box of bits, but were intending on going back to standard 8.4's... but If part of the conversion is changing the hubs aswell then may aswell stay with the 4 pots
#4
Posted 24 October 2004 - 07:33 AM
As he's running 8.4s no need to change the hubs. just the discs and clalipers. but you need ERA caliper bolts.
some metro hubs will change the geometry, but no one knows witch ones do as rover say they only ever produced one type.
One the later hubs the ball joints need changing for early ones (tapers different)
I was told by a Rolls Royce engineeer that even the early ones are not correct, very close but not 100%
Personally I would never bother with them, as there is no great improvement over a well set up set of 18.4's and the disadvantage is the increased unsprung weight.
Siggy
some metro hubs will change the geometry, but no one knows witch ones do as rover say they only ever produced one type.
One the later hubs the ball joints need changing for early ones (tapers different)
I was told by a Rolls Royce engineeer that even the early ones are not correct, very close but not 100%
Personally I would never bother with them, as there is no great improvement over a well set up set of 18.4's and the disadvantage is the increased unsprung weight.
Siggy
#5
Posted 24 October 2004 - 12:31 PM
do you not need to change the master cyclinder for 4pots?
rob
rob
#6
Posted 24 October 2004 - 01:12 PM
You don't need to change the Master, I've found when I've done this I need neg camber bottom arms as the camber alters with the Metro axle longer threaded Track Rod ends help too as they get a bit close to fully out. Never found any advantage with this setup though even on the Rally car.
#7
Posted 24 October 2004 - 09:28 PM
yeah i've heard as long as the bottom arms are changed for negative camber ones the handling is relativly unaffected.
I don't really understand the need for vented disks, yeah they will cool better but brake fade isn't a massive problem anyway. Fitting a servo to 8.4" assembly will vastly improve the braking as less effort is required to press the barkes. I know that you can just fit early metro (non-vented) four pots to an 8.4 setup with only the pipes and calipers needing changing. This has got to be simpler than mucking about with vented.
I don't really understand the need for vented disks, yeah they will cool better but brake fade isn't a massive problem anyway. Fitting a servo to 8.4" assembly will vastly improve the braking as less effort is required to press the barkes. I know that you can just fit early metro (non-vented) four pots to an 8.4 setup with only the pipes and calipers needing changing. This has got to be simpler than mucking about with vented.
#8
Posted 24 October 2004 - 09:32 PM
#9
Posted 24 October 2004 - 09:51 PM
The handling is very much affected using Metro uprights compared to Mini items even if you do use neg. camber bottom arms. The hub upright is very different in design and spreads the upper arm and the wishbone of the Mini further apart than they were meant to be, as well as changing the relationship of the track rod to the rest of the susppension. This changes the static camber and caster dramatically, but it also changes the path the hub travels through. Effectively it completely messes up the design of the suspension system as a whole. It gives a lot more bump steer and means the camber and caster change quite a lot as the suspension travels through its range of motion. I had some graphs and photos somewhere from an ancient Calvers Column, but it is really very dreary. Suffice to say that the problems can be fixed, but it really gains you not very much at all in the cars setup to use this hub unless you want to increase the front track by about two inches. The only real benefit is that you get sealed for life, reliable ball joints.
#10
Posted 30 October 2004 - 07:11 PM
Cheers guys !! sorted it now. :wink:
Phil. :grin:
Phil. :grin:
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