3 replies to this topic

[Prawn]

hey guys, as you know, im flip fronting my car this week, after sadly killing the original front end in a shunt....
so
ive got a full steel front end, a set of brace bars, and all the required fastners and fittings arriving tomorow.
first job is solid mounting the front ubframe
the front of the car has already been chopped off, all that remains is the inner wings, outer wings and the front panel have gone as they were pretty badly damaged
so
ill be solid mounting the subframe on sunday.
from looking at it, im guesing the rear mounts are a simple case of undo, change over, and bolt up again, is this the case? how should i support the car while doing it?
is there anything i should know, or be careful to watch out for?

the tower bolt mounts....
is this simply a case of undoing the bolts, jacking up teh shell and sliding the old mounts out, and slotting the solid mounts in and then bolting it all up again?
same questions as before really

final question:
having relatively good mechinical skils, how long should the mounts take two people to change? with all the correct tools and considering we dont run into any problems....
thanks
nick

[Prawn]

please
any comments before sunday would be great, as i intend to solid mount the subframe, and start fitting the new front end on sunday...
cheers
nick

[Guess-Works.com]

Helpful hints... (maybe)

Get a length of wood ( 1/2 scaffold plank is ideal) and get the front of the car up on it and axle stands under the floor pan at the front, making sure the handbrake is on and the rear wheels are chocked...

This way the front of the car will be completely up in the air, allowing access to all mounts.

Get a trolley jack ( or engine hoist if you have one ) and support the weight of the subframe and engine.

Undo the rear subframe mounts, 4 bolts each side, if they can be removed then do so, othereise leave for a minute...

With the engine/subframe supported, remove the two top subframe turret bolts then carfully lower the subframe about an inch ( enough to replace the lower of the turret rubber mounts with the metal solids ).

Also replace the bottom mounts with the solid ones, bolt to the floor first, but only loosely...

Raise the subframe back into position, and replace the turret bolt and top mount, tighten carfully making sure the mounts corrrectly locate...

The bottom mounts can now be attached to the subframe ( already attached to the floor ) this is where the quality of the mount is shown ( the holes should line up ) if they do not, then use a fairly hefty screwdriver as a lever through the subframe into the mount, and lever the holes in line, push a bolt through the other hole and finger tight the nut, do the same on the other bottom mount, until all 8 nuts ( both sides ) are located and finger tight. Tighten them all to specified torque, and then tighten the turret bolts up to specified torque...

The subframe and body are now solidly locked together...

[Guess-Works.com]

Actually did this last night, fitted the back and front solid mounts to schmoo ( but not the turret bolts ) do that at the weekend during daylight..

Drove the car up on to ramps, and was able to do both with no hassle, the old ones just dropped out...

The front tear drops needed the use of a persuader ( crowbar ) just to give enough of a gap to remove the locator pin from the recess.. and the air intake funnel ( drivers side ) to gain access to the top bolt of the teardrop...

All in all, took about an hour last night in the dark with an inspection lamp...

even without the turrets done the improvement in stability and control is vast... highly recommended mod ( if fact don't know whay they changed from the original solids MK1&2 to rubber, I've notice no appreciable increaase in road noise )