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Mini Mag No 114


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#1 Wesser

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 03:08 PM

Hi,

I'm after a copy of the Calver's feature on converting an SPi to Carbs. It's issue 114 anyone one want to sell it or photocopy/scan it I don't mind payin. Cheers. Tim

#2 miniboo

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 05:16 PM

the article may well be on the minispares website.

although if you are having injection problems then a post your problems up in the injection section.

minisprocket will help you fix it in no time at all

#3 Dev

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:51 PM

Whats the problem Wesser?

Dont turn away from the light!

#4 Wesser

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 07:17 AM

She's misfiring at 1500 and 2200 RPM more so when cold and won't tick-over when hot. Local Rover dealer can't help their toolbox doesn't recognise my ECU so I fitted and old 91 ECU and its no better cold but will sometimes tick-over but runs a little lumpier !!!

Edited by Wesser, 13 April 2007 - 07:17 AM.


#5 Dev

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 11:50 AM

Is the new 91 ecu a cooper one?

#6 Wesser

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 02:53 PM

Yep it's a Cooper MNE10092 0433

#7 Sprocket

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 09:45 PM

Check the engine is in good condition. If compression is down on cylinders, this wont help and the ECU will find it difficult to controll the fueling and ignition.

Fit a vacuum gauge and measure the pressure in the manifold at idle, if the vacuum is less than 500mmHg then there is a problem with the valves.

Rarely does the ECU fail unless you cross wires and short the thing out. Its normaly a sensor and the initial set up that causes these problems. The set up is the first thing you should check. On older cars this is usualy way off the mark as some one has tried to adjust all the little screws that are on the throttle linkage unkowingly mall adjusting the stepper.

The throttle cable needs to be adjusted, this is explained elsewhere in this section and also in the Haynes book. This is the first thing you should do and one that the so called ex purt Calver never mentioned in his artical. I will come back to that in a bit.

Check all the ignition components are in good working order, NGK BPR6E or BPR6ES plugs, dizzy cap is in good order as is the rotor arm. Replace all with new items if they are suspect, that way eliminating them.

Incicently what are the colour of the plugs, this can tell you alot about whats hapening.

The air filter is in good order?

Dont understand why the rover garage cant hook up their computer to this. That is going to make it difficult in finding sensors that are out of accurate range. It may be a case of replacing all the sensors for known good items, lambda sensor, coolant temp sensor and air temp sensor. You will need to drive the car around for a period for the ECU to adapt to the new conditions, if the problem still persists then chances are its a problem with the engine.

I really dont like throwing parts at engines without the information that would give you a clue if its faulty or not, thats what the service tools, thermometers and gauges are for, but if you cant use these for what ever reason then it may be your only way of getting it sorted.


Going back to the artical in Mini Mag, Calver is quick to condem the SPi stepper and advise fitting carbs, which is an outragous statement. The stepper works exactly the same as the MPI to control the idle air, its just done in a different way. Brand new units from Burlen can be had for about £70 on ebay when they apear and £122 on their website, and that includes the injector, throttle/stepper body, throttle position sensor and throttle linkage, its everything other than the inlet manifold, coolant temp sensor and air temp sensor. Id be surprised if you could fit carbs and a clockwork dizzy and set it up for less than that. There is some duff info about the injection systems but there is also some very good information in that artical. I basicaly looked at it and then used the mag to prevent over spray on the garage work bench when painting a cylinder head tonight. Im not convinced that Calver knows that much about the injection system and is biased with his experience on carb engines whih is what he does know.

#8 Wesser

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:45 AM

Thanks for that Sprocket, I will put a bit of time in on the throttle linkage and see how it looks and try and borrow a vacuum gauge.

Edited by Wesser, 16 April 2007 - 09:46 AM.


#9 Nu2mini

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 02:26 PM

Another interesting comment Mr Calver makes in his article in the IMPORTANT NOTES Box entitled ENGINE is

..........I very strongle advise making the oil filter head modification to eliminate the pressure relief valve as detailed in the August 2005 issue.

Now I've heard of the common modification made to the pressure relief valve but never heard anyone advising you eliminate it. Does anyone have the article from 2005 or know what the heck is on about

#10 Sprocket

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 03:20 PM

What Calver is talking about is the relief valve inside the oil filter housing. Its purpose is to by pass the oil filter if it were to become clogged ( bad maintenance, lack of oil and filter changes) so that the pressure inside the filter does not build up and rupture the filter can, not only that but it still provides oil flow for the engine if the filter does become clogged, this however has the down side of supplying the engine with potentialy damaging unfiltered oil.

Production engines run the standard oil filter head for years and never had a problem as long as the maintenance is kept up. Why Calver recommends this on anything other than competition engines is beyond my reasoning. I think his reasoning is that the relief valve will lift under normal conditions supplying unfiltered oil to the engine. Eliminating this valve will stop this. But, like i said, production engines in their millions run these filter heads and the majortiy never have a problem.

Im no expurt, Calver clearly is, most of his suggestions are good and of sound standing, some i just dont see the point.

Edited by Mini Sprocket, 19 April 2007 - 03:21 PM.





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