42 replies to this topic

[seria]

Change fuel filter and no difference, ie need a lot of cranking before the engine start. Battery power no problem, as it is quite new. Bought battery end last year. However i experience no problem to start the engine when the engine is warm. Can it be vacuum line? I guest not because no problem when engine is warm.
The other thing is the vacuum line. Refer attach picture. Please advise which goes where?
The other problem i come across is the car loss power at around 2500 RPM in all gears (ie 1 to 4). I has difficulty passing 2500 RPM mark. One it is over 2500RPM it's ok.

Attached Files

•  IMG_1140.jpg   198.42K   17 downloads

Edited by seria, 10 May 2007 - 04:52 AM.

[seria]

Interesting... This is the latest.
Cold engine... pour around 2 ounces of fuel into where the injector is. WOW... one kick... the engine start.
What could go wrong? What do i need to check. Please help.

[ed4ran]

As has been said it could be the coolant sensor, if its not working it may not recognize the cold start and therefore not be adding warm up enrichment (extra fuel when cold) so by adding fuel manually you get around this.

[Sprocket]

I do not know what is wrong here, however, i can make an educated guess as to why its not starting and then from that work out what could possibly be causing it.

When an engine is cold it needs more fuel for it to run properly. When cranking the fuel is again increased ever so slightly over the cold running fueling.

Now, there are only two variables, the fuel supply and the coolant temperature and air tmperature that the ECU measures. If you have eliminated the fuel supply issues, this leaves the temperature as a possible area to look.

You said that by adding fuel to the throttle body it starts first time, this suggests that there is not enough fuel being injected. This could be the result of the coolant temperature sensor reading higher (not normaly the way but not impossible) resulting there being less fuel injected. The same can be said for the air temperature sensor but to a lesser degree. It does not have as dramatic an effect as the coolant sensor. The air temp sensor only corrects for air density and as such the fueling changes are small in comparison.

Basicaly change out the temperature sensors and see if this cures the problem.

Last ditch attampt after the temperature sensors is having the injector cleaned

The only other possability i mentioned earlier not related to the injection system is that the cylinder head and valves require the seats re cutting.


Oh and the picture you have added but not commented on shows that the yellow vac pipe has become disconnected from where you are pointing. This is what hapens to these elbows, they split causing an air leak make sure ALL of them in the system are in good order. It needs to be repaired as i see the red vac line has been already.

Edited by Mini Sprocket, 10 May 2007 - 06:02 PM.

[seria]

Thanks ed4ran and mini sprocket.
I am using 74 degree C thermostat and the temperature needle record temperature just above the minimum (ie needle hardly move), even though the car was driven for 45 minutes. I will change the coolant temperature as i have one from the half cut and report back the result.

[Sprocket]

The thermostat is the wrong item, it needs to be the 88 degree item otherwise the engine will always be in open loop control/warm up, and run rich.

Edited by Mini Sprocket, 11 May 2007 - 03:59 PM.

[seria]

Thanks for the help mini sprocket and ed4ran. This what what i did.
Take off inlet manifold. But suddently realise that it might be worth while just to check the wiring to the coolant temperature sensor. Cut open the sleeve and to my surprise one of the wire is broken. Join back the wire and put everything together (note that i did not change the coolant temperature sensor). Woo Hoo one kick man.... ONE KICK. Thanks everyone.
Oh yes, the hesitation on acceleration around 2500 rpm is also gone.

Mini Sprocket,
The weather here is 33 degree C all year round. The temperature from the temperature gauge register half. I hope this is ok. Thanks.

[seria]

Two days ago it develop another problem. It is hard to get into first gear at times. I have to put a little bir force. Sometimes it is soooo smooth to go into first gear. Is this something easily fix. I have an auto gear box. Can this fit?
Appreciate all your help.

[AlexM]

Two days ago it develop another problem. It is hard to get into first gear at times. I have to put a little bir force. Sometimes it is soooo smooth to go into first gear. Is this something easily fix. I have an auto gear box. Can this fit?
Appreciate all your help.

Mine can be the same sometimes. You can't fit an auto box easily to a manual car as i believe the front subframes are different. However you could try taking your foot off the clutch and engaging it again before trying the gear a second time.
I believe there is a rubber bush in the gear lever housing which can be replaced, might help the problem.
Are the engine steady bushes ok?
The gearbox moves a surprising amount when you use the throttle. You can see this if you stick ur head under the car and watch. Some companies such as minispares sell gearbox steadies (much like the engine steadies) which are designed to tackle this problem).

[seria]

Engine steadies are in good condition. I have not fix my gearbox steadies. I will fix that. Thanks for your input.

Edited by seria, 21 May 2007 - 09:15 AM.

[seria]

AlexM,
I can't remember how it was fixed. Do you have a picture?
Thanks.

[seria]

I found the picture. Thanks.

[seria]

Hi guys,
Another problem has emerged. At idle the RPM sometimes stays constant at around 850. At time the RPM goes up and down. It changes from 850 to 1200. It will not stay constant at 850. The other thing is, while driving and when i slow down (ie before hump) with the clutch free, sometimes the engine almost stall ie RPM drops to almost zero but the engine did not die. What could this be?
Thanks for all your help.

Edited by seria, 28 May 2007 - 12:47 PM.