42 replies to this topic

[seria]

1993 Rover mini cooper, carbriolet, Manual, 1275, SPI
The car run fine. One day run the car for 20km, park the car at home, switch-off the engine. Try to re-start the car immediately, it crank but will not start. Crank for 15 to 20 minutes still will not start. Charge the battery overnight, no difference (battery read 12.8 v). Change ignition coil and spark plugs no difference. There is spark at spark plug. Check in-coming fuel line, there is fuel. I have run out of ideas, PLEASE HELP........what do i need to do next.
Thanks everyone.

Edited by seria, 24 April 2007 - 11:34 AM.

[Jammy]

Compression test? Air leak somewhere?

[Bass Man]

Are the plugs very wet after trying to start for a prolonged period, if not suspect fuel.

Assuming they are dry check the carb, is the choke opening properly, does the car cough but not quite start? Check that the needle hasn't fallen out of the piston in the carb and is blocking fuel. is there fuel in the float chamber?

If plugs are wet ignore above......

[seria]

Compression test? Air leak somewhere?

Thanks. Will check all vacuum line. Is there any particular place need to concentrate on? For compression test, i have not done this before. How do i start?

[seria]

Are the plugs very wet after trying to start for a prolonged period, if not suspect fuel.

Assuming they are dry check the carb, is the choke opening properly, does the car cough but not quite start? Check that the needle hasn't fallen out of the piston in the carb and is blocking fuel. is there fuel in the float chamber?

If plugs are wet ignore above......

The car does not cough at all. This model is with single point injection. Will check if the plug are wet after prolonged start period. Will post the results of my findings. Thanks for all the help.

[Bass Man]

This model is with single point injection.

Ahh, I really should read all the info first.....DOH!!

[Nu2mini]

Hi I think this post should be moved to the injection mini specific section. Perhaps Sproket or Dev will Oblige.

Now I'm no expert on this subject but you have an animal of a somewhat different colour as the car your talking about is a 93 SPI. I believe this will have come with a factory fitted immobiliser and you should have a key fob with a single button to arm and disarm the immobiliser. The immobiliser is linked to the ECU which does some clever code stuff each time the car alarm is set. IF the car is not starting the first thing to check is that the immobiliser is not armed. Once you start getting a flat battery and unconnecting batteries you get the ECU all confused and it just refuses to start the car. Now there is a way to get the car to reset both the ECU and your key fob but I can't remember what this is. That's why you need to get this post onto the Injection specific section. I recommend you do this before trying anything else

[Jammy]

Ahhh, didn't realise it was Spi, suppose there could be a whole host of other things that could cause it not to start, will move to Injection section where you should get better advice.

[biggav]

where abouts are you???? if you can get it to an ex rover dealer that still have the fault code reader they should find the problem in no time

[Nu2mini]

OK you now seem to have your post in the best place for an answer.

First I recommend you read the following post. The solution to your problem may be different because there are several types of ECU and associated immobilisers. The fact that the man from Birmingham fixed MURRAYF's problems says there is a solution out there also as last post says do you have anyone locally you know who has good Rover knowledge.

Immobilised - help starting a Sprite

[Sprocket]

When you say there is fuel there, how have you checked this?


To check if the fuel pump is operating, switch off the ignition and then switch it back on untill the oil and battery lights are on but do not try and start it. As soon as you turn the key to this position, you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for roughly 10 seconds. if not try reseting the inertia cut off switch mounted in the engine bay on the bulkhead. if this is fine then check the fuse, it will be an inline fuse on the main wiring loom just above the inertia switch tucked under the windscreen scuttle panel.

[Sprocket]

Hi I think this post should be moved to the injection mini specific section. Perhaps Sproket or Dev will Oblige.

Now I'm no expert on this subject but you have an animal of a somewhat different colour as the car your talking about is a 93 SPI. I believe this will have come with a factory fitted immobiliser and you should have a key fob with a single button to arm and disarm the immobiliser. The immobiliser is linked to the ECU which does some clever code stuff each time the car alarm is set. IF the car is not starting the first thing to check is that the immobiliser is not armed. Once you start getting a flat battery and unconnecting batteries you get the ECU all confused and it just refuses to start the car. Now there is a way to get the car to reset both the ECU and your key fob but I can't remember what this is. That's why you need to get this post onto the Injection specific section. I recommend you do this before trying anything else

Factory fit imobilisers that send a coded signal to the ECU did not become mainstream until 1995

[seria]

Thank you for all the input/reply. I am pretty tight up today and will start according to the reply one by one tomorrow and post back the results in this forum. One question I can answer quickly is, i do not know anyone with good Rover knowledge locally . I am on the other side of the globe, ie Brunei Darussalam . There are very few Rover Mini here. However with this forum's help it will certainly be on the road again.
Thanks everyone.

Edited by seria, 25 April 2007 - 04:38 AM.

[seria]

Factory fit imobilisers that send a coded signal to the ECU did not become mainstream until 1995
[/quote]
Just to confirm there is no factory fit imobilisers.... where do i start. How does it look like and where is it fitted.
Thanks.

[seria]

Are the plugs very wet after trying to start for a prolonged period, if not suspect fuel.

Assuming they are dry check the carb, is the choke opening properly, does the car cough but not quite start? Check that the needle hasn't fallen out of the piston in the carb and is blocking fuel. is there fuel in the float chamber?

If plugs are wet ignore above......

The car does not cough at all. This model is with single point injection. Will check if the plug are wet after prolonged start period. Will post the results of my findings. Thanks for all the help.

After prolonged engine crank, the plug show sign of fuel but not very wet.