9 replies to this topic

[maph2]

was wondering if anyone know of other cars that used a smaller sized alternator. i am fabricating a front mounted rad set up using a late model front rad and will have to move the alternator up (like what rover has done). other han picking up a late model alternator, i was just wondering if there are smaller ones available that would fit?

[Brawlyrox]

i read on aother forum, that some small models work from japanese cars, i will try and find you the link.

[Brawlyrox]

These alternators are commonly found on small cars like the suzuki swift, Diahatsu Charade, and some 'industrial' equipment like the micro diggers and some site generators. Be wary of the latter two however, as these are usually only a 25 amp output.

All the ones you'll find are vitually all made by Nippon Denso. Seemingly identical ones are available from Demon Tweeks - but at a price!!!

Two pulley types are often found - a plain vee belt, and a four (I think) row multi-vee belt. If yours has the multi-Vee, you can buy new (single) vee pulleys from Demon Tweeks - for around £20 i recall - so it's worth looking for the right pulley type!

If you do need to change the pulley, you need an air-gun. If you don't have one, speak to a garage... The nut will not come off with a breaker bar - as it's so difficult to hold the pulley itself.

Finally, if you spy a swift in a breakers yard, and fancy the alternator - bank on around 15-20 minutes to remove it!
You also need to have a 12mm spanner and socket with you. A 12mm ratchet spanner will make very quick work of it however!
You need to remove all the air filter assy, throttle cables, brake servo (just loosen the unions, and undo the master cyl from the servo (these are 12mm aswell!) and plastic cover around the alternator. Then get under the alternator and undo the one, or two, bottom nuts (depending on type). If the two bolt type, the bolts are captive, and once the nut is undone, the bolt can be slid out. Single type is usually one long bolt and plain nut - again 12mm heads
Then undo the top bolts, and lift it out!

FYI - if you are thinking about one of these, the body of the swift ones is around 100mm (4") diameter - obviously the lugs stick out further! The industrial ones are approx 80mm dia - and not suitable for a road car, although probably fine in a racer!

Wiring the alternators in is easy - just follow this link!


This was taken from www.turbominis.co.uk

[maph2]

Brilliant - thanks Brawlyrox. down the scrap yard this weekend then.

[Brawlyrox]

no worries, the turbo boys need smaller alternators so they can mount intercoolers in more efficient places!!

let us know how it goes.

[Guess-Works.com]

You can also get those 'mutts' race alternators, but I can't find the link at the mo..

And arnt those late model mins, the same alternator just mounted higher ? ie different brackets ?

Of to find a piccie.... brb

[Dan]

Well it is a different (internally cooled) alternator on the twin point, but the real problem is the mounting brackets which move it up higher are screwed in to holes/bosses in the cylinder head which don't exist on the pre twin point casting.

[maph2]

yup, i had a good look at the twin point alternator set up and the basic difference is it is a slightly more compact design but the trick is to get it mounted without having to buy a twin point cylinder head with the mounting bolt holes cast into the head. the other problem is also about moving the temp sensor by using a metro themostat set, which then means buying another top engine stready bracket....

i'll probably dig out my mig welder and fabricate an extended mounting system using the existing alt mount holes and a brace bolted to the rocker cover possibly.

matt

[maph2]

this is usefull -

http://www.ime.org.u...t_radiator.html

[Guess-Works.com]

Fek, Think I'd stick with the rad on the side...