my spi mini have really rough idle when cold engine, and when i throttle to about 1500rpm, it keep mis-fire and i have to rev it higher than 2000rpm to avoid the engine stall....
everything fine after the engine warm up, please help and let me know what parts of the car i need to check and replace.
thanks
patrick
SPI problem.....please help
Started by
patrickypc
, Jun 13 2007 07:19 PM
3 replies to this topic
#2
Sprocket
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Great on Injection faults
- Location: Warrington
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Posted 13 June 2007 - 08:38 PM
The manifold heater may have failed. These are hard to come by. Best bet is to check it out first when its cold by measuring the resistance. It must be cold, as when it warms up the resistance goes up until its almost opern circuit, so to speak. Thing is you will find it difficult, but not impossible to test it with the manifold on the car.
Sources for these heaters are any second hand SPi manifold from any Rover, just make sure your not buying a duff one.
Sources for these heaters are any second hand SPi manifold from any Rover, just make sure your not buying a duff one.
#3
patrickypc
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Starting My Mini Up
Posted 14 June 2007 - 05:52 AM
The manifold heater may have failed. These are hard to come by. Best bet is to check it out first when its cold by measuring the resistance. It must be cold, as when it warms up the resistance goes up until its almost opern circuit, so to speak. Thing is you will find it difficult, but not impossible to test it with the manifold on the car.
Sources for these heaters are any second hand SPi manifold from any Rover, just make sure your not buying a duff one.
Please help and let me know where is the heater located, and whats the step i need to check if it is working. other than the heater, is there any possible that the MAP sensor is not working normal?Also, how about the relay?
thanks for your help
patrick
#4
Sprocket
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Posted 14 June 2007 - 11:21 PM
The heater is located in the underside of the inlet manifold. It is retained by a large circlip and there is a single 6.3mm spade connection in the middle of it for the 12v +ve supply. You can see the top of the heater through the throttle when wide open. Its the round knobly looking thing.
Test the heater using a digital multi meter on the ohm setting. Connect the black lead to the manifold or the body of the heater and the red lead to the spade connection. Do this when the heater is cold. If there is zero resistance, the heated is duff, if there is infinity resistance, the heater is duff.
It is possible that the relay pack is faulty and not supplying power to the heater when the engine is cold, Its not that easy to check. You can remove the cover of the relay pack and look for any scorching of the PCB tracks, also check for scorching on the Large connector plug. The heater is normaly switched off by the ECU when the coolant temp is above 70C
If your car runs fine when warm, it is unlikely that the MAP sensor will be at fault.
Test the heater using a digital multi meter on the ohm setting. Connect the black lead to the manifold or the body of the heater and the red lead to the spade connection. Do this when the heater is cold. If there is zero resistance, the heated is duff, if there is infinity resistance, the heater is duff.
It is possible that the relay pack is faulty and not supplying power to the heater when the engine is cold, Its not that easy to check. You can remove the cover of the relay pack and look for any scorching of the PCB tracks, also check for scorching on the Large connector plug. The heater is normaly switched off by the ECU when the coolant temp is above 70C
If your car runs fine when warm, it is unlikely that the MAP sensor will be at fault.
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