FIBREGLASS COMPETITION.
Started by
Matt
, Jun 18 2007 02:59 PM
39 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 18 June 2007 - 02:59 PM
Hey guys...
considering putting a fibreglass install into the mini to make things look tidy...
now im thinking about 1 10" audiobahn sub (inverted to see chrome cage) as well as 2 other amps..
any ideas of design layouts??
ill give ya a week... so from now until next monday..
and ill pick a design and send a pack of sweeties off to the winner...
considering putting a fibreglass install into the mini to make things look tidy...
now im thinking about 1 10" audiobahn sub (inverted to see chrome cage) as well as 2 other amps..
any ideas of design layouts??
ill give ya a week... so from now until next monday..
and ill pick a design and send a pack of sweeties off to the winner...
#2
Posted 18 June 2007 - 03:08 PM
ill do anything for sweets
#3
Posted 18 June 2007 - 03:15 PM
get busy then!!
i may shut the competition early if i find one that i think is perfect!!
i may shut the competition early if i find one that i think is perfect!!
#4
Posted 18 June 2007 - 03:47 PM
will this be with back seats out or just in the boot??
#5
Posted 18 June 2007 - 04:23 PM
will u be making the install urself?
#6
Posted 18 June 2007 - 10:29 PM
yes this is just for the boot...
and yes i will be making it myself
and i fancy a challenge!!
and yes i will be making it myself
and i fancy a challenge!!
#7
Posted 19 June 2007 - 10:09 AM
what about this (sorry for crappy image im at work and this is the best i could do in 5 mins)
mounting the sub on a fiberglass enclosure on the boot lid (i would sugest bulking up the support wires)
maybe adding a mini badge into fiberglass as well to make it look a bit more custom, then mount the amps on the back of the read bulkhead and the nearside read wing
its a fairly complicated build because you have to make sure the boot can still close properly
hope this helps
mounting the sub on a fiberglass enclosure on the boot lid (i would sugest bulking up the support wires)
maybe adding a mini badge into fiberglass as well to make it look a bit more custom, then mount the amps on the back of the read bulkhead and the nearside read wing
its a fairly complicated build because you have to make sure the boot can still close properly
hope this helps
#8
Posted 19 June 2007 - 11:26 AM
yeh quite like the idea!!!
but wouldnt it give a massive stress on the boot lid? or at least the fibreglass when its shut
by the way.. that is more or less what the back of my car looks like..
centre twin dtm exhaust.. and mtec body kit
like the idea of the mini badge too..
would prefer installs to be in the boot though.. for fear it will be a lot of effort to mount on boot lid!
but wouldnt it give a massive stress on the boot lid? or at least the fibreglass when its shut
by the way.. that is more or less what the back of my car looks like..
centre twin dtm exhaust.. and mtec body kit
like the idea of the mini badge too..
would prefer installs to be in the boot though.. for fear it will be a lot of effort to mount on boot lid!
#9
Posted 19 June 2007 - 01:48 PM
yer i think it would cause a fair bit of stress which is probably why i havnt seen it before
could always add a spare boot hinge or two on the bottom to help strengthen the hinges up, and you could wind another 2 boot wires around the existing ones to make them triple strength (or if you wanted to really show off you could get some linier actuators on a remote so that the boot decends/acends automatically, but im not sure how much this would cost)
i would also add something similar to a leather bonnet strap to the boot as well to make sure it doesnt swing open if the lock gives
as for the fiberglass, use as much mdf underneath it as possible to strengthen it up, other than that i have no clue
again it was just an idea as i hadnt seen it done before (and you asked for a challenge )
could always add a spare boot hinge or two on the bottom to help strengthen the hinges up, and you could wind another 2 boot wires around the existing ones to make them triple strength (or if you wanted to really show off you could get some linier actuators on a remote so that the boot decends/acends automatically, but im not sure how much this would cost)
i would also add something similar to a leather bonnet strap to the boot as well to make sure it doesnt swing open if the lock gives
as for the fiberglass, use as much mdf underneath it as possible to strengthen it up, other than that i have no clue
again it was just an idea as i hadnt seen it done before (and you asked for a challenge )
#10
Posted 19 June 2007 - 02:41 PM
lol!
yes i did ask for a challenge.. but not something near impossible.. lol!
only kidding!!
yes i did ask for a challenge.. but not something near impossible.. lol!
only kidding!!
#11
Posted 19 June 2007 - 02:59 PM
you wont be able to get the enclusure size right, and invert the sub, and close the boot
#12
Posted 19 June 2007 - 03:19 PM
why not :S
above are the specs for my sub which is the 101T
it doesnt require a massive enclosure.. infact quite a shallow one!
above are the specs for my sub which is the 101T
it doesnt require a massive enclosure.. infact quite a shallow one!
#13
Posted 19 June 2007 - 03:23 PM
has anyone ever dun a sub install on a boot? some are shallower than others so it would depend on the profile as to whether it would fit...
#14
Posted 19 June 2007 - 03:26 PM
you could try mounting it not verticle on the lid but at an angle so if you were looking down at the boot, the magnet of the sub would be looking at you, this may help with clearance of the top of the mag when closing the boot - i will draw up some proper pics in flash tonight when i get home
#15
Posted 19 June 2007 - 07:27 PM
got those pics meph?
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