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Matt's Megajolt guide


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#31 dn89mini

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Posted 02 July 2007 - 09:33 AM

I am pretty sure they are from a Sierra Cosworth, at least thats what I got mine from. Picture attached.

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#32 The Matt

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Posted 02 July 2007 - 09:43 AM

Yup, that's the same as the one I'm using. :shifty:

#33 miniboo

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 02:34 AM

how easy is it to mount the trigger wheel?

Would you be bale to get it on with a fully built engine bay? or is it an engine out job? Rad out?

#34 The Matt

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 06:33 AM

how easy is it to mount the trigger wheel?

Would you be bale to get it on with a fully built engine bay? or is it an engine out job? Rad out?


Ummm, nah you could do it with the engine and rad in place.

Basically, set engine to TDC, go through the inner wing with a socket and extension (by the brake pipe union, under the radiator) undo the crank bolt, leave the pulley in place. Put the trigger wheel adapter and new bolt in place and tighten it up. You then place the trigger wheel on to the adaptor, which is then held in place by a threaded ring (C-spanner is used to tighten it up).

Then, once you've mounted the trigger wheel, you can mount the sensor bracket onto the timing cover (you'll need a couple of longer bolts to go through the bracket and the two timing cover holes). Then, once the sensor is mounted, you can adjust the position of the trigger wheel in relation to the sensor (set the engine at TDC, then the sensor needs to be 90 degrees before the missing tooth in the pulley).

#35 smudger

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 03:34 PM

can you help fit one to mine?

#36 Tomf

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 03:39 PM

How do you find the TDC? do you have to take the head off or is there an easier way to find it? Probs a really stupid cuestion, but iv never had to do it before so i dont know lol

#37 miniboo

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 03:50 PM

Glad you asked that Tom because i was kinda wondering the same thing.

#38 smudger

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 03:56 PM

$5 for a funky shift lift!


Might splash the cash and spend $15 inc postage!

#39 mini93

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 04:02 PM

on the crank theres notches relating to TDC aline that to the 1st marker turn the engin over by hand to get there, or taking the spark plug out and resting a screw driver, again turn over by hand should indicate where abouts tdc is as theres the momentary stop at the end of the throw of the crank just before it turns back round

#40 gavfoz

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 04:03 PM

TDC can be found by:

removing number 1 spark plug
remove dizzy cover, turn engine over by hand till rotor arm is pointing at number 1 lead
put piece of wire or thin screw driver in plug hole and by rotating engine both ways you will see your screwdriver just begin to drop
turn back a touch and this is TDC

I have never done this on a Mini but it has worked on other cars I have owned. No doubt their is a more scientific way to do it that will be explained later!

Hope it helps.

EDIT: Damn you mini93. :P

Edited by gavfoz, 08 July 2007 - 04:05 PM.


#41 Tomf

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 04:07 PM

Ah thanks :P sound like a really easy job :), ill look at both the rotary arm and put a screwdriver in there spark plug 1 shoudl be :P thanks.

I cant wait to get this all installed now :D

#42 smudger

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 04:07 PM

robbed from somewhere else:

As for the other components I simply took them of of the various fords, my greatest moment was cutting out a whole EDIS loom from a car (an orion I think), basically I traced the connections back until they had a common focal point (where it goes into the car to the ECU) and cut the whole lot out, that means that I didn't have to split any wires or solder bits in to make lengths and Ford had done all the hard bits. All I did was break open the loom and snip out any wires I didn't need, then recover in tape to give shape and protection. Total cost 5! Also it fits the mini engine bay perfectly to run wires out of sight.

As for the trigger wheels again mine cost 5 (trigger wheel of a sierra) and half an hour getting my friend to weld it together (on a mini pulley)

that seems easy enough to follow.

#43 mini93

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 04:08 PM

iv not done it on a-series ether i did on kent x-flow engine i would imagin principles are the same

#44 The Matt

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 04:08 PM

Finding truly accurate TDC is not 100% necessary, you can adjust it out with the MJLJR anyway. On my mini, TDC is marked on the bottom pulley and there is a toothed pointer, align the dent in the pulley with the finger on the pointer and you've got your starting point. There is also (again on my mini, don't know 100% about others) a hole in the transfer case with a little pointer in it, through which you can see timing marks on the flywheel.

As for a shift light. The MJLJR has an output for a shiftlight anyway, so you basically need to just wire that up to a small 12v bulb fitted to your dash and hey presto.

As for fitting one to someone elses car, I'd rather get mine working 100% first! :P

I am working on the idea of supplying a full fitting kit, which would include machined pulley, bespoke VR sensor bracket, bespoke coil bracket and so on. I've only thought of this because nobody else offers a comprehensive kit at the moment.

#45 smudger

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 04:16 PM

Well, if the mini-pulley system works best (getting it machined means it needs to be re-balanced doesnt it?) with a custom bracket (means we can have shiney stainless or anodised alloy), dizzy plug, edis system (or the latest version) together with an inlet that has been tapped ready, oh and add all the connectors, leads etc, then i am sure it will sell.

however, the cost of the above begins to make it expensive.

maybe just the pulley, bracket, dizzy plug and tapped inlet?

just leaves the edis system, connectors and leads then. (or maybe more)

if that was all avaible from the one place, then you could basket what you want and what you want to find.

if you do go that route, i am intrested in the pulley, inlet, bracket and dizzy plug.




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