33 replies to this topic

[Dan]

Hey now that's a point, I hadn't thought of it because you said all the parts are new but how is the release arm? The ball on the end of the arm is prone to wear fairly quickly which has a similar effect to this. Also if you get a new release arm get a genuine one as there is another make out there which is at the wrong offset angle and so it won't release properly (that is on the pre-verto clutch at least).

Also, without meaning to have a go at anyone, as has been sort of said extending the slave push rod is a total bodge. There is no need to do this on a road car if the system is in good condition. Extending the rod simply hides the wear that needs correcting and encourages wear in other parts. I know that troublesome clutches are a right pain to sort out and deeply annoying, it took weeks to get mine right.

[cowboy]

Hey now that's a point, I hadn't thought of it because you said all the parts are new but how is the release arm? The ball on the end of the arm is prone to wear fairly quickly which has a similar effect to this. Also if you get a new release arm get a genuine one as there is another make out there which is at the wrong offset angle and so it won't release properly (that is on the pre-verto clutch at least).

Also, without meaning to have a go at anyone, as has been sort of said extending the slave push rod is a total bodge. There is no need to do this on a road car if the system is in good condition. Extending the rod simply hides the wear that needs correcting and encourages wear in other parts. I know that troublesome clutches are a right pain to sort out and deeply annoying, it took weeks to get mine right.

i agree with you dan on this point (says the man that bodged his push rod)

if everything is working correcrtlly then there is no need to lengthen the push rod, can we have a little more enlightenment on the lever being out of allignment and

The ball on the end of the arm is prone to wear fairly quickly

can someone put up a picture as this is something i might of missed hense went to the lengthening method (bodge)

[siggy]

In have known the ball to crack and brakel off, but only with comp clutches

Siggy

[nomininolife]

hi siggy

Yes I removed the spring and the clutch is a pre-verto recon unit

if that is what you mean


Regards

David

[nomininolife]

i stripped the whole lot and checked it for cracks and flatting but it was fine it comes off a low milage unit about 27000 if i remember rightly



Regards

David

[nomininolife]

I think I am going to try and simplify things a bit and strip the master cylinder in the morning to make sure 100 percent it is a clutch master cylinder, I know its probably working backwards but its really frustrating me

[cowboy]

just looking at the master cylinder will tell you if it a clutch or brake master cylinder, the later cars had a totally differant brake to clutch master cylinder but i have seen some pictures where it looks like the clutch and brake master cylinders are identical.

is there anyway of checking this out or have these people used a clutch master cylinder as a brake master cylinder, it has been earlier type cars which i have seen this on

:wales:

[nomininolife]

I was told you can tell the difference by a cut out in the mounting flange...... if it has one it is a brake master but the clutch?? I have has a cut out, I looked on the manufacturers website and it shows a picture of a clutch master with the same cut out

[cowboy]

these are the 2 clutch master cylinderes i've had the old type

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[cowboy]

and my new type one plastic housing

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[Dan]

Cowboy, the ball on the rod should be just that. A perfect ball with a smooth surface, if there is even the slightest flatting off it makes the clutch motion jerky and erratic. It makes the ball look more like a grape in its shape than a real ball. Similar wear can occur inside the clutch plunger where the ball slots in.
The dodgy clutch arms are a non genuine part and are somewhat straighter than the genuine one. That is to say the angle from the long arm through the pivot to the centre of the ball is less pronounced than on the genuine article. It is hard to see unless you have both versions to hand. The non genuine item wears quicker as well. Technically this straighter arm shouldn't make a difference as the adjustment of the return stop will correct for it, but it seems to make a difference to the arc the pushrod moves through which puts the biting point just beyond the range of adjustment. As I said in theory it won't make much of a difference but having dealt with one of these arms myself and fixed the problem I know how it can change things. The travel of the clutch is really very small and so it doesn't take much to screw it up.

Can't offer any more options myself though NoMiniNoLife, you seem to have done everything I would have done and if it isn't working then all I can think of is that you must have missed something. When you do find out what it is it'll probably be obvious. Good luck.
I was told that the only external difference between the plastic reservoir clutch and single line brake masters was the size of the base plate (when I was considering similar possibilities). I know you could tell the difference by the cut out in the bean tin masters but I don't think it applies to the new ones. I would be interested to know though if you find out for sure.

[nomininolife]

I see yours does not have a cut out so maybe there is a good chance I have 2 brake masters

[nomininolife]

Looks like I'm off to the minispares on friday when they open again

[nomininolife]

Thanks everyone for all your time and effort I will let you know how I get on.


Fingers crossed

[cowboy]

is the cut out at the back closer to the bulkhead, if i remember corectlly without going outside in the cold, the clutch has a cut out, its in the area where 1 of the brake master bolts sits, will take a closer pic tomorrow for you

:wales: