just a few q's
this being me first mini and never worked on one before i need some advice....
1/ how hard is it to change the shocks front and back..
2/ same for the engine mounts
3/ would cheaper kits be ok for general road use
4/ and finally .......... are angel eye headlights legal?
thanx in advance
replacing shocks and engine mounts
Started by
simmo
, Jan 18 2004 11:42 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 18 January 2004 - 11:42 PM
#2
Posted 19 January 2004 - 10:56 PM
Dunno bout the angel eyes, think they are ok as long as they are white (BMW's have them).
Changing the shocks is easy, will take about an hour. For the front all you need to do is undo the bolts that hold them on (one top and one bottom) and they side off. Re-fit in the same way.
The rears need the back of the car jacking up and the top of the shock undoing from inside the boot on top of the arch and on the bottom at the radious arm. On the passanger side you will need to move the fuel tank out of the way tho. This envolves undoing the bolt at the end of the metal strap that goes diagonaly across it on the floor end, take the fuel cap off and move the take out of the way. Remove and replace the shock in the same way as the other side, then re-fit the tank in the same way you took it out.
As far as engine mounts go, these can be a nightmare to do and can be easy as hell too, depands what kinda mood your car is in lol.
Its just a case of supporting the engine on a jack (not lifting it, jus taking the weight), then undo the bolts on the mount (change one side at a time). Removing is easy, it trying to get the bolt holes to line up when the new mounts are in thats the hard bit, then trying to get your hand in to put the nut on! This job can take anything from an hour to a day to do, jus depends on how lucky you are!
Cheaper kits are ok, but as with anything for you car, buy the best you can afford...
Changing the shocks is easy, will take about an hour. For the front all you need to do is undo the bolts that hold them on (one top and one bottom) and they side off. Re-fit in the same way.
The rears need the back of the car jacking up and the top of the shock undoing from inside the boot on top of the arch and on the bottom at the radious arm. On the passanger side you will need to move the fuel tank out of the way tho. This envolves undoing the bolt at the end of the metal strap that goes diagonaly across it on the floor end, take the fuel cap off and move the take out of the way. Remove and replace the shock in the same way as the other side, then re-fit the tank in the same way you took it out.
As far as engine mounts go, these can be a nightmare to do and can be easy as hell too, depands what kinda mood your car is in lol.
Its just a case of supporting the engine on a jack (not lifting it, jus taking the weight), then undo the bolts on the mount (change one side at a time). Removing is easy, it trying to get the bolt holes to line up when the new mounts are in thats the hard bit, then trying to get your hand in to put the nut on! This job can take anything from an hour to a day to do, jus depends on how lucky you are!
Cheaper kits are ok, but as with anything for you car, buy the best you can afford...
#3
Posted 19 January 2004 - 11:18 PM
thanx doc gonna get me coopie down to work first so i can get it on a lift. then its time to part wiv me hard earned...lol
#4
Posted 21 January 2004 - 12:15 AM
Everybody has different tastes, but this is how I like my mini set up if its any use to you as a guide...
A full set of poly bushes all round, front and back, steady bushes, shock bushes, the works, and a solid mount kit on the front subframe. This will sharpen the steering up loads and make it feel more responsive and in control.
Engine mounts I like to leave as standard, it allows the engine to move a bit without putting too much strain on other parts.
My favourat shocks are GAZ adjustables, if your gonna fit Hi-Lo's then get lowerred shocks (they are shorter to allow for less travel). Gaz adjustables are something like 32 point adjustable, so you can really get the ride to how you want it. I'm not a fan of Spax, I had a set once and they were horrid. Avo are also good. Tho the '20% uprated' shocks are a good price, they dont make very much difference over standard, so if you can, pay the bit extra for an adjustable set.
A full set of poly bushes all round, front and back, steady bushes, shock bushes, the works, and a solid mount kit on the front subframe. This will sharpen the steering up loads and make it feel more responsive and in control.
Engine mounts I like to leave as standard, it allows the engine to move a bit without putting too much strain on other parts.
My favourat shocks are GAZ adjustables, if your gonna fit Hi-Lo's then get lowerred shocks (they are shorter to allow for less travel). Gaz adjustables are something like 32 point adjustable, so you can really get the ride to how you want it. I'm not a fan of Spax, I had a set once and they were horrid. Avo are also good. Tho the '20% uprated' shocks are a good price, they dont make very much difference over standard, so if you can, pay the bit extra for an adjustable set.
#5
Posted 21 January 2004 - 07:36 PM
as above, re:engine mounts, get the ones with the captive nuts built in! much easier!
Rich
Rich
#6
Posted 22 January 2004 - 02:23 AM
cheers every body will give it some thought (dpends on the cashflow)
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