20 replies to this topic

[Pavel]

Right due to my engine being fcked over (read in mini chat) I need to strip it down.

The basts who did what they did so far unscrewed the centre bolt (huge flywheel bolt), and unscrewed the flywheel from the clutch. The clutch is sitting on the crank pretty solidly (can turn engine over through it), but the flywheel is knocked off and is basically just lying on the casing, and only spins when the clutch hits the bits on the flywheel.

Flywheel has some pretty serious hammer marks on it.

What I want to know is how do I remove the clutch? Do I have to screw it back to the flywheel using the 3/6 bolts around the circumference and then use a puller? because I tried using a puller today and it didn't do much!

Also how important is it for the cutouts to be horizontal? I can't describe the cutouts reallyb ut where the huge bolt would have been, around it there are 2 large grooves. In haynes it says these must be horizontal but I only read that after attempting to remove it.

(-O-)

Next, since they cracked my housing around the starter motor hole, I will need a new housing. I have one on my 1275GT, but would that fit since its an A series witha pre-verto clutch?

Finally, what are the chances that the crank would have been damaged beyond any salvageable use?

Thanks

[mini90]

Sounds nasty and without seeing it a bit tricky.
It is important to have the slots horizontal there is a retaining clip that slips if you don't , if this has slipped it's a right bst. I would try putting the flywheel back on , make sure the plate that fits into the end of the crank is removed, Ive seen this left in and you can't pull the clutch while that is there, then give it another try with the puller. You'll need to check the crank for damage when you have the clutch off. I think you can use the housing but I think you may have to use the gt drop gears not 100% on this though.

[Pavel]

Would that not mean I have to use A series gearbox? :\

Tomorrow I'll hopefully be able to attach the flywheel to the clutch, and give it a pull. If not I guess I'll take out the angle grinder...

*sigh* there's 100 pounds well spent huh?

Incidentally does anyone know if a A series crank fits into an A+ block?

[mini90]

Just checked it out on Calvers old articles, you can use the cover off the A on the A+
But if you have a genuine GT box you'd be better using that anyhow it's a close ratio.
The A crank will fit.

[Guess-Works.com]

Before you get the angle grinder out, in fact lock it in the box.....

As mini90 has said.. the groves should be horizontal, but even better, make sure piston 1 is at top dead center, this will guarentee that the C Clip will not foul, re-attach the flywheel, just to keep it out of the way as this provdes you with a mechanism of locking the crank as you wind up the puller.

Attach the puller to the clutch and tighten up, lock the flywheel with either a special tool, or a big flat screwdriver through the starter motor housing..

With one foot on the top of the engine, and with a breaker bar, SLOWLY tighten the puller. If it does not go, most times the will, a sharp smack on the flywheel through the starter motor hole may do the trick, then tighten a bit more...

Ohh just thought.... try a little heat on the clutch/crank aswell

Eventually you will hear the Bang...Thud... as the flywheel hits the floor... or your big toe :nugget:

The Crank...

Apart from the cooper cranks, all big bore engines had the same size main ( 2" ) and big ends (1.75"), so your GT crank should fit.

The Crank Case..

Again Mini90 hit the button, but to answer your question, yes you can use an A+ gearbox, what you will have to do is remove the 1st motion gear from the 1st motion shaft on your A+ box, and replace it with the one of the GT (if you have it ), and as Mini90 says, use the idler and primary from the GT aswell.. This way the gears will fit...

however, if you do have the GT gearbox, I'd be tempted to use that basically as it should be a close ratio box.

If you dont have the bottom gear, I'm sure I can dig one out from somewhere.

[Pavel]

Thanks a lot guys. Is there anyway to check if it is indeed a GT box since the previous owner told me its been rebuilt or replaced...

Might go and try again to remove the clutch and flywheel today. because if I can do that, the rest of the engine can come apart quite easily!

Cheers guys

[Guess-Works.com]

There are two ways....

1. The Laygear ( the solid one with 4 cogs on in running along the front of the box ) should have the part number 22G1040 stamped on it.

if that cannot be seen then option...

2. count the number of teeth on the 1st motion shaft... 17 standard, 18 GT aka close ratio.

Piccy to help you identify...

3 - 1st motion shaft

11 - Laygear

[Pavel]

Okay thanks a lot.

This morning tried to take the clutch off. It just won't move!

I bolted the flywheel to the clutch (albeit loosely), turned till the hub was horizontal (more or less), stuck a screwdriver to keep it there, bolted on the puller and nothing. Wacked it with a hammer, still nothing!!

I assume (and hope) that the 30mm flywheel bolt shouldn't be in place when using the puller, right? and the puller bolts are bolted into the clutch (3 holes). The flywheel and clutch are held on by 6 (in my case 3) bolts right around the circumeference?

Still don't get how my flywheel came off the taper while my clutch is still stuck on the crankshaft :\

Really need this thing off today :\ :nugget:

[Guess-Works.com]

You'll be surprise how tight they can get, but it should come of with the puller... As suggested you need a breaker bar ( about 3 ft long ) with an appropriate socket on the end to turn the puller. One foot on the top of the engine, to stop it turning, and slowly bring the breaker towards you.

Persevere, It will come off...

[cowboy]

The basts who did what they did so far unscrewed the centre bolt (huge flywheel bolt), and unscrewed the flywheel from the clutch. The clutch is sitting on the crank pretty solidly (can turn engine over through it),  but the flywheel is knocked off and is basically just lying on the casing, and only spins when the clutch hits the bits on the flywheel.

Flywheel has some pretty serious hammer marks on it.

i've just been re reading this and you say

but the flywheel is knocked off and is basically just lying on the casing

can you post up a pic of this so we can see what is happening

Edited by cowboy, 24 December 2004 - 02:01 PM.

[Guess-Works.com]

Just been doen the garage,, and took a couple of photies of what it should look like...

the first shows the puller connected, and the second, a decent breaker bar and two arrows... lock the flywheel with an appropriate special tool ( big flat screwdriver ), and place knee, or foot on top of engine indicated by other arrow..

Pull on breaker bar... dont tug or jerk, pull evenly.

[cowboy]

cheers john just need one from pavel so we can cpmpare :grin:

[Guess-Works.com]

Took me about an hour to do the post, had a slown down on TMF again !! hence the "SHOULD" otherise would have been realy confusing !!!

[mini90]

If the retainig clip has slipped while the scum where trying to remove the clutch it will be holding the whole thing back. It maybe possible to get it back but it'll be tricky

[Guess-Works.com]

The way round that is to undo the flywheel from the pressure plate ( on verto ) and on Diaphragm clutches undo the back plate, this release the clutch and allows the clutch plate, which is the bit being prevented from being removed by the C clip, to be left on the crank and the front half fo the clutch still being removed.