Drums to brakes
Posted 12 January 2005 - 06:10 PM
I will be starting the conversion on friday and completing on saturday.
I am just checking if i have missed anything.
So far the tools i have listed are;
Brake adjusting tool for rear drums
7mm spanner, 1/4" spanner for bleeding rear drums
2x Axle Stands
4x 12" Wheel
Ezibleed - bleeding kit.
2ltr Brake Fluid.
I have a full set of sockets and spanners available. The disks are complete, just need driveshafts pushing into engine and balljoints fastened up. They come with hoses.
I also will be changing the pads and discs one day...may be after weekend, will i need any special tools for this?
Posted 12 January 2005 - 06:16 PM
Also make sure you got a Fkn big socket for the disc hub nut!
Actually come to thik of it you might not need it... Just slide out one assembly and slide the other one in ;p
I'd replace the copper washers on the brake hose to caliper fitting!
Posted 12 January 2005 - 06:26 PM
Wont be changing disks till the brakes are fitted and working, so thats not a rush job.
Posted 12 January 2005 - 08:54 PM
Posted 12 January 2005 - 09:22 PM
Posted 12 January 2005 - 09:27 PM
Posted 12 January 2005 - 09:41 PM
AND AS LONG AS THEY ARE IN GOOD NICK WOULD LEAVE THEM ON
AS CAN CAUSE YOU MORE GRIEF THAN ITS WORTH TRING TO CHANGE THEM
JUST MAKE SURE WHEN ON CALIPARS THEY ARE NOT TWISTED AS WILL FAIL THE MOT :saywhat:
Posted 12 January 2005 - 09:42 PM
Tax due at end of month :S
Posted 13 January 2005 - 10:21 AM
Drum brake likes are an inch or so longer than disk, and you'll find that the hose will have a tendancy to rub on the tiebar when used with calipers, this is not a problem but will cause a wearspot on the pipe, must go on the list of things to check at service time..
Apart from that, to get the units on without removing the driveshaft from the hub, you will have to split the inner pot from the shaft ( as it will not fit through the hole in the subframe ) by undoing the boot and withdrawing the shaft with the inner of the cv ( put a latexglove or plastic bag over the end of the shaft to prevent anything dropping out and getting lost and also dirt ingress. You will then be able to pus the shaft through the hole in the subframe and re-engage in to the pot which you have previously pushed into the diff.
That's about it.. ( fairly easy realy ) and don't foret to bleed your brakes when complete.. :cheese:
Posted 13 January 2005 - 10:26 AM
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