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Carb ID and running problems


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#1 Boab

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 09:31 PM

Evening all,
Firstly,
Can anyone tell me how to identify what carb I have. It is definetly a 1.75, but would like to know whether it is a HIF44 or HIF6. Are there any tell tale signs that I can look for.

Secondly,
Once the engine is warm, the car does not run smoothly when the choke is in the closed position. I need to have the choke half to three quarters out. If it is fully closed the carb backfires all the time. When accelerating it feels as if the engine is struggling to draw in enough fuel or air to allow maximum power. When thinking about it, its the same kind of feeling I get on my motorbike when it runs out of fuel before turning the reserve switch on.
It has already been to a garage and had the carb 'setup', but I am not convinced.

Does anyone have good quality pictures of a carb just so I can check that all the pipes are going to the right places. In another thread, I read that the breather pipes had been removed from the engine to the carb. My mini is like this as well but I have sourced the pipe work to connect it all up. (The pipe out of the carb is blocked up.) Will it make a difference?


More queries to follow once this one is solved.

Thanks

:ohno:

#2 Jordie

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 09:45 PM

Firstly, a pic would help to identify the carb

Secondly...Sounds like incorrect mixture or a fuel blockage, maybe possibily poor timing. If choke is needed to run smoothly, this suggests without choke its running lean. Richen up the mixture by turning the screw (dont ask me where or which way because i dont know what carb you have). A turn at a time and adjusting the idle as required.

I do not run a breather on my carb and then end is bunged up similar to yours. I did this basically because the idle was really lumpy using the breather and the rubber pipe broke.

If the breather intake on carb is not blocked fully, air will get in here, leaning your mixture. Does the car run smoothly if u hold ur finger over it while revving or block it off and take a drive.

Some people say you should run the breathers, others dont, some say use a inline filter and some just dont care if it works. All personal preferance and down to what you think is best.

If the garage has setup the carb and your still having problems, i would take it back to them. Ask them to check it over and adjust as nessecary.

#3 Pavel

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 09:48 PM

HIF44 and HIF6 are the same thing :ohno:

#4 Jordie

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 09:50 PM

HIF44 and HS6 are both 1.75" and different however.

#5 Pavel

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 09:52 PM

Sounds like your engine is running too lean. If the carb is in fine condition I'd suspect an air leak in the carb to spacer or spacer to inlet or inlet to head areas.

Get some WD40 and with the engine running (no choke) spray it to the above mentioned areas. If the engine tone changes at all, you know you have a leak.

Basically I had quite a few of the problems you mentioned, and all I did was take off the carb, remove the dashpot etc. dump it in a bucket with fuel, get a cheapo paintbrush, and clean the whole thing after letting it soak for a few hours. Slightly clean up the spacer and inlet manifold mating faces (wire brush or a bit of sand paper). Grease any bolts or spindles slightly, get a set of new gaskets, and refit everything properly, and then set idle speed on the carb. Everything works fine and starts first time and runs with choke or without!

If you can afford it, I'd take it to a rolling road since they'll set up everything properly, but its definitely a good idea to do the cleaning and refitting etc. before the rolling road anyway as then the carb is functioning a lot better than when its dirty!

#6 Pavel

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 09:54 PM

Yes Jordie the HS6 and HIF44 ARE different but he asked whether its a HIF6 or a HIF44 which are the same carb.

The HS6 is easily recognized by having a float chamber on the side of the carb (a little cylinder hanging off on the drivers side of the carb) as opposed to under the carb as in the case of the HIF series carburettors!

#7 Boab

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 10:04 PM

No need for a pic then as I have the HIF44. The timing is spot on and going by what Pavel has said, the pipe that goes into the manifold (big nut) could be the problem. When I bought the car it had masking tape all over it. I took it off before fitting the new engine. Incidently, what is this pipe for?

#8 Pavel

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Posted 17 January 2005 - 10:22 PM

If it's huge and on the driver's side of the manifold at the top, that's the vacuum takeoff for the brake servo. If you don't have a brake servo or you don't want to use it, you'll need to block off that take off by screwing in the correct bolt and using a copper washer (I use a TINY smear of gasket sealant to ensure no airleaks).

Like I said, check with the wd40 to pinpoint where the problem is, it'll make it easier.

Good luck

Incidentally is that your mini in the avatar? Did you buy it after it was featured in the magazine?

#9 mayfairman

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 04:37 PM

On the question of identifying your carburetter if you look on the float chamber hopefully there will be a steel tag held on by one of the bolts,on this tag you will see some letters and numbers stamped on it.This is the ID tag for the carb if you phone for parts for it and give them that number they will know exactley the one you have and can give you the correct parts.

Or you can try www.burlen.co.uk when you get on their website you can type in the ID tag num and letters and it shows you the part numbers for your carb (ie.needle type etc) and their prices give it a try

:ohno: :lol:

#10 Dan

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 05:24 PM

On the HIF the id number is mounted under one of the dashpot screws rather than the float chamber screws, and is a strip of metal which sticks up vertically next to the dashpot not like the funky little oval jobbie on the HS.

#11 Boab

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 07:35 PM

If it's huge and on the driver's side of the manifold at the top, that's the vacuum takeoff for the brake servo. If you don't have a brake servo or you don't want to use it, you'll need to block off that take off by screwing in the correct bolt and using a copper washer (I use a TINY smear of gasket sealant to ensure no airleaks).

Like I said, check with the wd40 to pinpoint where the problem is, it'll make it easier.

Good luck

Incidentally is that your mini in the avatar? Did you buy it after it was featured in the magazine?

I replaced the nut and washers today and it just needs to have the mixture adjusted, but the weather has been against me. Took it for a test drive and was much better.

Yes, this is now my car and is under-going a major interior overhaul.

#12 Pavel

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 09:09 PM

Great buy! Very unique!

Hope you sort out your problems and stick around our forums ;]

If you have the time and are in the mood, it would be great if you could do a photo+writeup how you redo the interior as you go along to feature on our site..

#13 Boab

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 09:54 PM

I will certianly try. I have found a local buisness called Transcal, www.transcal.co.uk who do any kind of interior that would hope for, which sell their materials off the shelf. I am doing a dash rebuild at the moment but need the top rail to arrive through the post first.

Oh yes, it was featured in Feb 04 issue of either minimag or miniworld with the gorgeous previous owner. I seem to have lost my copy, so anyone with a spareone wouldn't go amiss.

#14 Boab

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Posted 22 January 2005 - 01:30 PM

Rab would not start today. Looks like its time for the wiring loom to be overhauled along with the HT leads and dizzy cap. Car turns over but will not respond. Possibly damp connections but the wiring is a mess and could be a bad earth.

#15 Jordie

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Posted 22 January 2005 - 07:20 PM

sounds a typical damp problem....

check points and condenser - replace as nesercary
Clean dizzy cap and make sure its dry inside and out
check HT leads for cracks and if so...earthing
Check for spark at plugs if this doesnt get you anywhere
Check theres fuel getting to engine.




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