8 replies to this topic

[Pavel]

1st off, want to remove the steering colums from the '76 GT and the MK2... What tools will i need for this? My tools aren't here and I want to bring only the ones that I'll need. If it's too hard I'll say fcuk it and hope that my steering column will never want to be replaced!

Welding a sill + bottom part of front inner arch (where it meets the sill basically!) I'll ask my mechanic to weld this. He's really good with a MIG welder but doesn't do bodywork (more welding tubes together, brackets etc. but some piping is quite thin metal..). So is it really hard to weld the sills and a patch (I assume a patch needs to be welded into the inner arch) with a MIG welder? I'd take it to a bodywork specialist but they're all monkeys around here and would also charge a lot, and probably mess everything up. My mechanic will do this for free probably.. so rather tempted!

Finally is it hard to change from Verto to PreVerto clutch on a metro engine? (not in situ of course)

Thanks

[Dan]

To change the columns you just need a socket set and spanners, a big flat screwdriver (to spread out the pinch clamp at the bottom of the column) and possibly a drill and easyout set if the shearbolts have been snapped off at the dash rail clamp. It can also be a good idea to take out the clamping plate from the dash rail along with it's spacers and stuff (make a note of the order they should go in) especially if you are swapping from one car to another of a different age, as the column diameter and support clamps have changed at some point but I can't remember when. Buy new shear bolts, they only cost about 60p and can go in the regular air mail to you. I actually have one I could send I think, if you want it. (Keep the original cone nuts) I'll have a look for it. Remember you need to completely remove the pinch bolt from the column to be able to lift it off the rack as it locates in a groove on the pinion. I don't know if the columns will interchange from one rack to another if they are very different ages, but I bet someone else does.

Changing clutch setup is easy on any pre injected car. Old flywheel off (fully built). New flywheel on (again fully buit and with the correct bolts and locktabs and stuff). Strip down the wok and change over the release pluger, arm and bearing assembly, fit the new slave and hose to your original master and hydraulic line. Job done.

[Guess-Works.com]

You can do it in situe if yah want, plenty of room..I got quite profficient at it when mine was blowing clutches every couple of months.

Also make sure your flywheel has the right ring on it for the starter...

[Pavel]

Thanks guys... one more question. What about removing the steering RACK?

[Dan]

Easy enough once the column is out. Lift the car up as normal but try to support it by the body rather than the subframe (make sure you spread the load out enough to avoid denting the floor. Then you put a jack under the engine to hold it up, release the rear mountings for the front subfame and take a few turns out of the top mounting bolts to allow the frame to drop down a bit. Now lower the engine and frame down just a little bit with the jack, remove the U-bolts and pull the rack out from one side. Lift the engine back up and bolt the frame back in. Obviously much easier if the engine is out first.
Oh yes, and you need to release the steering arm balljoints first.
Bear in mind that if you leave a car without a rack there's nothing controlling the front wheels, so they could end up pointing anywhere.

[sean]

yeh need to inspect my clutch too. one of the above posts sais it is easy to do with the engine in. this is good news what tools will i need and any tips as there is a bad shudder

[Guess-Works.com]

You'll need nothing different as to removing the clutch from an engine out of the car... other than a trolley Jack ( or similar support ) for under the engine, as youl'll be removing the engine mouting on the bellhousing.

Ah sorry edited didn't look at who posted the above comment ( doh ! )

Other than the usual spanner sockets etc.. you will need..

Flywheel puller
1 1/2" socket ( pre verto ) or 30mm socket ( Verto ) for the Flywheel bolt.
Big torque wrench
Trolley Jack
long breaker bar is also useful

Quick procedure.

Remove everthing on the left had side which is likely to get in the way, brake servo's, air intakes etc etc...
Place trolley jack under engine and jack up so it is just taking the weight.
Remove two securing bolts for engine mount from under wing.
Remove all bolts securing bell housing, some are fiddly, and may require the engine to be jacked up slightly to allow access, and remove, if verto, remove slave clutch cylinder and bracket first..
Remove starter motor
You now have access to the flywheel bolt.
Undo using appropriate socket, and breaker bar ( you will have to lock the flywheel using either a special tool or a big flat screwdriver through the starter motor hole. )
line the slot in the crank/flywheel so it is horizontal and lock flywheel in position as before.
Attach flywheel puller, and remove flywheel ( breaker bar useful again)

Job done.

Edited by GuessWorks, 27 January 2005 - 02:35 PM.

[Dan]

A 7/16" (11mm), flat, (as in not cranked) slim headed ratchet ring spanner is very useful when changing a clutch in situ, as one or two of the wok bolts are extremely hard to get at. Halfords sell good ratchet spanners over here, don't know where you'd find one down under though.

[clubman katie B.F]

i put a new steering rack on just before xmas. pain in the arse job. i would recomend ramoving the carb before you drop the engine and sub frame, as i found the carb prevented the subframe from dropping far enough to withdraw the rack, and ended up cracking the bottom of my carb. fitting the new rack is a bit like fitting an LCB manifold....it won't go in for ages, you start getting frustrated, then suddenly it all slips into place. good luck!