16 replies to this topic

[soopercooper]

I have a 1968 cooper which is original aside from the engine, which is a 1275 unit most likely from a GT (not sure how to tell, but given that it was a recon unit put in in '91 is most likely to be from a GT?) , and the gearbox has a 2.9 final drive (according to the paperwork that came with it). It also has twin SU's with K&N fillters and an RC40 exhaust system. The braking and suspension are unaltered, so 7" disks at the front (non servo) and hydroelastic suspension.

Am fairly new to mini ownership, but willing to have a bit of a tinker. So the question is what can I do that's not too expensive to improve on power. Also with regards to the brakes, is there anything to impove those? (other than upgrade to 7.5" setup) I notice that there are EBC greenstuff pads available for mine, will they be better than standard pads for road use?

Any ideas greatfully recieved.

[Jordie]

depends on the type of driving you do.

greenstuff pads are seen as for race/fast road, but the blackstuff/kevlar pads they do have a wider operating temp making them better for road.

[soopercooper]

depends on the type of driving you do.

greenstuff pads are seen as for race/fast road, but the blackstuff/kevlar pads they do have a wider operating temp making them better for road.

Blackstuff pads also have the advantage of being half the price of greenstuff! They sound more up my street useage wise.

Off to Minispeed for the VAT free day tomorrow then...

[Guess-Works.com]

I surprised you can stop the thing with a 1275 unit and 7" disks, they are next to useless..

I would strongly suggest upgrading the brakes if your going to add any more performance. if you want to keep 10" wheels ( which I would suggest ) you only option is 7.5" disks, or at worst a good well maintained set of drums will out perform you 7" disks.

Also, if the 1275 unit has an engine number, that can be used to find the source of the engine, but in 91 there were a lot of rusty metros around then with hardly used 1275's

Oh, ps... welcome to the joys of mini ownership, sounds like you have a real stunner to start with

[soopercooper]

I surprised you can stop the thing with a 1275 unit and 7" disks, they are next to useless..

I would strongly suggest upgrading the brakes if your going to add any more performance. if you want to keep 10" wheels ( which I would suggest ) you only option is 7.5" disks, or at worst a good well maintained set of drums will out perform you 7" disks.

Also, if the 1275 unit has an engine number, that can be used to find the source of the engine, but in 91 there were a lot of rusty metros around then with hardly used 1275's

Oh, ps... welcome to the joys of mini ownership, sounds like you have a real stunner to start with

Indeed stopping is a bit of an issue versus the current acceleration.


If I were to upgrade to 7.5" would exactly would I need? is it just the disks or do I need new everything?
Also where is the engine number located?

Thanks for the welcome :grin:

[Pavel]

Engine number is on a little plate on the block right under the head, it's on the radiator side of the engine, just under the top hose going to the radiator.

As for upgrading breaks, I *think* you'll only need callipers and the discs.... not sure though as I've never come across changing from 7" to 7.5" queries.

In fact I'm almost positive that you can use your hubs and driveshafts, the only thing you might need to also change is the drive flanges, but I'm not sure of this...

[Guess-Works.com]

Yep, change to disk, drive flange, and calipers. and not overly sure about the CV, that may also need to change, the way to check is the size of the bolt on the end. If it's 1.1/8" then they will need to change, 1.5/16" then the're the right CV's

Cost wise, I'd buy the Disks, driver flanges and CV's ( if necessary ) new, the're still relatively cheap, the calipers are going to cost the money..

You see them at over-inflated prices at shows, and they sometimes appear on ebay, or you can still buy new Minispares, the alternative id four pot alloys, not cheap but worth every penny.

[Dan]

You do need new CV's as the 7" disc setup is based largely on the original drum, setup and so has the small CV joint. You also need the large CV joint nut and split tapered washer to go with it. You may need to change the hub upright as well, I'm not sure.

Oh yeah, and the transverse 1275 was also fitted to about a dozen other BL cars over the years. It's unlikely to be a 1275GT version just on the odds alone (very small production figures for the GT when compared to things like the Allegro, the 1300 or the Metro. Is it an A+ or an A series unit?).

Edited by Dan, 25 February 2005 - 08:29 PM.

[Pavel]

In that case I'd find a good set of used 8.4" breaks (hubs, driveshafts, cvs everything together).

Sell off the calipers for a tenner, and then buy the alloy 4 pots for 10" wheels. They use all the stuff from the 8.4 setup, all you need to do is have the discs turned down to 7.9" (which will simply remove the rusty stuff around the 8.4" discs!), and you've got the best 10" stopping power money can buy.

The alloy 4 pots also come in several very pretty anodized colours... Minisport is the place to get them

[joe90gt]

just going back to basics for a mo, are you sure its got the 7" discs as they were 7.5 as standard in 68, its seems very unlikely that someone would fit 7s as they were pretty poor performers, just double check first, they may be poor because they need servicing, in good condition they are very good stoppers

[soopercooper]

You do need new CV's as the 7" disc setup is based largely on the original drum, setup and so has the small CV joint. You also need the large CV joint nut and split tapered washer to go with it. You may need to change the hub upright as well, I'm not sure.

Oh yeah, and the transverse 1275 was also fitted to about a dozen other BL cars over the years. It's unlikely to be a 1275GT version just on the odds alone (very small production figures for the GT when compared to things like the Allegro, the 1300 or the Metro. Is it an A+ or an A series unit?).

I'm fairly sure that the engine is a A, not an A plus.

I was told that the engine & gearbox did come out of another mini, but that's all I know. Will check tomorrow for engine number, and I'll take a couple of pics.

Is it a particularly difficult job to change the CV's and calipers?, I will be armed with a Haynes manual and a smattering of experience...

[soopercooper]

just going back to basics for a mo, are you sure its got the 7" discs as they were 7.5 as standard in 68, its seems very unlikely that someone would fit 7s as they were pretty poor performers, just double check first, they may be poor because they need servicing, in good condition they are very good stoppers

I think the cooper S had 7.5" but the cooper had 7".

Judging by the current stopping performance, I'd guess that I have the 7" , although have never taken a tape measure to them....

[joe90gt]

your right, didn't check my facts. you have got the 7" , cheapest upgrade is to 8.4 setup but then you have to go to 12"....

[Guess-Works.com]

tape measure !! :saywhat: , more like a calendar !

[t@z]

Moss's do 4 pots to go under 10" wheels though as said above you'll need to run 7.9" discs, i think you can get the whole kit and that for about 480 ish inc now alloy coloured calipers. be my next upgrade.... :grin: