ive got a '93mini mayfair. im going to repair some of the rust on the drivers wing. ive done this before. i resprayed it myself but got a mostly matt finish....is this due to not enough prep work etc.
is it best for me to sand all the paint off to bare metal and start again fresh,do the necessary repairs and respray it....only a little rust but want a better paint job and cant afford new wing,and welding it on etc.
any advice on the stripping, priming the filler,preb work and the rest of the metal(do iuse specific filler primer over the filler and different primer over the bare metal???), spraying etc would be great. thanks
andy
Repairing Wing
Started by
Andy4646
, Mar 07 2005 09:37 PM
3 replies to this topic
#2
Jordie
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Traders Area Specialist Mod, North and Scotland Area Manager
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Posted 08 March 2005 - 12:11 AM
Hey andy you slaaaaag!
Welcome to forum.
Welcome to forum.
#3
dklawson
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Moved Into The Garage
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Posted 08 March 2005 - 03:47 AM
Most Haynes manuals (apart from the early Mini one I use) have pretty succinct sections giving an overview of the prep and paint work. I'd start with one of those.
My own answers to your questions.... If you have a lot of paint on the wing already (like more than three coats of paint), you should remove most or all of it. Use a high-quality filler for the low spots and filling the minor rust areas once you've got them squeaky clean and have chemically treated the rust. In spite of what others tell you, don't use rust conversion coatings as a primer. Chemically treating the rust with phosphoric acid products is OK but conversion coatings make particularly poor primers and offer only limited protection. If you're using spray cans for your repair, choose a primer compatible with your top coat. Once you fill the rust and low spots, DRY sand the filler. DO NOT wet sand filler. Once you've leveled it, prime it. You can wet sand the primer. Read up on using guide coats and long boards for leveling primer coats prior to top coating.
Remember that the time you spend on the prep work will show up with your top coat. The matt finish you mentioned is frequently a problem that occurs when you spray when the humidity is wrong and/or you are the wrong distance from the panel when spraying. If possible, practice on a scrap panel before working on your car to get the technique down.
My own answers to your questions.... If you have a lot of paint on the wing already (like more than three coats of paint), you should remove most or all of it. Use a high-quality filler for the low spots and filling the minor rust areas once you've got them squeaky clean and have chemically treated the rust. In spite of what others tell you, don't use rust conversion coatings as a primer. Chemically treating the rust with phosphoric acid products is OK but conversion coatings make particularly poor primers and offer only limited protection. If you're using spray cans for your repair, choose a primer compatible with your top coat. Once you fill the rust and low spots, DRY sand the filler. DO NOT wet sand filler. Once you've leveled it, prime it. You can wet sand the primer. Read up on using guide coats and long boards for leveling primer coats prior to top coating.
Remember that the time you spend on the prep work will show up with your top coat. The matt finish you mentioned is frequently a problem that occurs when you spray when the humidity is wrong and/or you are the wrong distance from the panel when spraying. If possible, practice on a scrap panel before working on your car to get the technique down.
#4
Woody
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Ring Runner 2005
Posted 08 March 2005 - 07:34 AM
All of the above +
make sure to read up on the grade of paper you rub down with
a matt finish is not the end of the world
you can flat and buff the paint work once it is cured
make sure to read up on the grade of paper you rub down with
a matt finish is not the end of the world
you can flat and buff the paint work once it is cured
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