6 replies to this topic

[AndyM]

Hi all. I'm after some advice if anyone can help me.
I've just replaced the nearside top suspension arm on the front of my mini (1993 Sprite). When I tightened up the bolts through the plate that holds the front thrust washer in, the arm started to stiffen up. When I tightened up the nuts on either end of the pivot shaft, the whole arm locked solid.
I replaced the old arm because it was extrememly stiff, and when I tried to remove the old one, the front bearings in the arm had collapsed and worn a shoulder onto the pivot shaft, meaning I had to hacksaw through the shaft to get the arm out. Could the subframe be twisted? There's no other evidence for that, the tower bolts line up fine, and nothing seems to be damaged or bent.
It seems like the thrust washers are clamping on the arm and locking it. I think they should clamp onto the shoulder on the pivot shaft and hold that, leaving the arm free to rotate on the bearings. I don't think the thrust washers should actually touch the arm itself, is that correct?
Any help gratefully received. Andy.

[Guess-Works.com]

Basically yes your right...

The inner shaft should be free to rotated when the arm is torqued up.

Is this a complete new arm ( or reconditioned ) or have you just replaced the shaft bearings and washers etc ( rebuild kit )

[AndyM]

Hello,
It's a recon arm with new shaft, bearings and nuts. The arm came with the bearings already in.
I thought the shaft was held fixed by the nuts and thrust washers, are you saying that the shaft actually rotates? If so, why are there bearings in the arm? Comparing it with my offside, the shaft on that is held still and the arm moves relative to it.
The Haynes manual seems to imply that you put the arm in place, then fit the seals and washers but I've found this to be impossible, there's no space. I put the rear washer & seal on, then the front seal and fitted the arm. I then manipulated the front washer into place and tightened the 2 bolts on the retaining plate. Something must be out of true, I'll have to strip it again tonight. I can't even get the suspension to drop enough to fit the damper!
Cheers. Andy.

[Guess-Works.com]

Sorry yes, didn't say that very well... did I....

Yes the arm is free to rotate, but as it's fixed at either end the arm move... think of it this way, if you were to put it all together outside of the subframe, the shaft would rotate...

basically what this boils down too is that the washers clamp onto the end of the shaft, which are inturn clamped into the subframe. When you torque up the bolts the shaft should prevent the washers from binding on the arm. This is independant of the subframe.

anyway I#m not sure I've dug myself out of the hole yet... but...

reading you last post, somethings just struck me... With the arm there are two washers ont thick and one thin, the thin one goes to the rear and the thick one towards the front ( as it need the additional thickness to go through the subframe ) sounds like you may have them the wrong way round or infact they have supplied you with the wrong washers.

[clubman katie B.F]

it's really tricky to do. i think minis84 and i spent a good couple of hours getting the bolt back through all the washers and other gubbins. unfortunately the haynes manual is right. i will ask him if he has any tips for doing it. chin up mate

[Dan]

The thrust washers do have to touch the arm, that's why they're thrust washers! They take the thrust.
As Guessworks said, make sure the parts are in the right order and remember to grease it properly when fitted.

[AndyM]

Hi there, thanks for all the comments.
I did remember to fit the thick washer to the front and the thin one to the back. I've stripped and reassembled it all again tonight (twice!) and I think it's sorted. The first time I put it back together I left out the seals to get a better view of what was happening and it seemed to me that the thrust washers were indeed clamping the arm too tightly for it to move. When I finally reassembled it, I tightened it up very slowly and stopped frequently to vigorously move the arm up and down. It's now still pretty tight, but not locked solid. I'm hoping that it'll loosen up a bit in time.
The reason I was doing this is because I've fitted new rubber cones, and now it's back on its wheels it looks really daft because there's 15cm clearance between the arches and the tyres! (165/60x12s). Hoping that'll settle down a bit! Does anyone know what the average ride height is supposed to be? Haynes only gives a value for hydro models.
Thanks again for all the helpful comments. I'm new here but I've had minis before so I'll hopefully be able to contribute something back in time. In fact, I do have a tip: If you buy a cone compressor of the cheap nasty type that has a large washer that sits over the tower bolt hole, pad it out with a bigger washer. I used the standard one and it deformed the washer which then pinged inside the bulkhead leaving me with a challenging afternoon's work to get it out again. I'd say go for the Sykes Pickavant cone compressor, I think it's the best one.
Sorry for the essay, regards, Andy.