35 replies to this topic

[Monington100]

Please someone help, Have a Z cars mini Busa.
I have read that other have had problems with the CV Boots splitting due the angle of the drive shaft on the passenger side. Spoke to Z cars who now recommend using 20mm engine mounts to lower the engine. This has been done and new boots fitted and 100 miles later top boot split and thrown the grease all around engine bay!!
Any ideas on what to do don't want to just fit another boot and hope it dosent split, is there an altenative fitting/boot type?

Andy

[R1mini]

The only realistic way is to lower the whole car, that's what my mate has done, I haven't measured the ground clearance but I think it is still reasonable, he did need to reroute the exhaust across the back, this was done to fit a larger quieter exhaust but it also removed the lowest part of the car, the corner of the back box which hangs very low. If your using the standard frame at the front you will struggle to get the front down to match the rear, fitting a ZCars tube subframe up front cured that problem

There are high angle CV boots available, but I'm not sure if it will cover your application and how much use they would be on a car that does more than a few miles

Cheers
David

[jacko299]

to help stop this we lowered the bearing mounts for the diff as far as we could to still allow clearance of the chain on the lower part of the diff mount frame and the driveshaft on the top of the exhaust. think this might have been around 12mm. seems to sorted out the problem without having to lower the car anymore! if you use the electric reverse the starter motor mount would have to be moved to suit aswell

Edited by jacko299, 18 December 2007 - 06:17 PM.

[z cars chris]

we are looking at this at present by reworking the exhaust system out from underneath to round the drivers side we can then lower the whole engine without sacrificing the ground clearence then the drive shafts can run level or nearer to level
we have tried all sorts of different boots but just cant seem to get them strong enough
the original ford boots were very tough and didnt split no matter what you did but they have stopped making them anymore so it looks like we will have to rejig the rear end a bit to suit which is a bugger really as if we could get good boots its not an expensive thing to fit,an exhaust is going to cost many times that.
if you can bear with me a few weeks we will beat this problem
chris

[Jammy]

But, one advantage is an improved CoG if you do lower the engine!

[xtr2turbo]

Just wondered if an update on this.

My passenger outer boot has split and I will need to change it for the MOT in a couple of weeks.

I'd rather sort it properly if I can rather than a quick fix.

David

[nennokair]

Ive had a couple of grease explosions. One just needed new clips. The other was my fault as the exhaust bracket was set too close and wore holes in the rubber. If u do need a quick fix all i did was use some bike inner tube repair patches and stuck them on with plastic/rubber superglue. Has lasted about 200 miles and is showing no signs of peeling off.

Andy

[Spoonz]

mine has done the same things, ive done 3 now,

The fix that you are speakin of chris will this cost us as our kits are older and have the fault of the driveshaft angle and the new ones wont ,
im on my 3rd boot now , and differnt make, its getting annoying..... always the same one, and ive lowered the car too.....

HELP

[Pete649]

Has anyone tried cv boots designed for something else like an AWD rough terrain vehicle?

[xtr2turbo]

I have bought some super flexible neoprene boots. You can actually stretch them with a special tool to fit the small end over the whole boot!!

I will hopefully fitt them this week. Cab anyone advise how best to remove the drive shatfs please? do you need to unbolt the hub and remove brake caliper etc or will they just slide out with the shock obsorber disconnected.

Regards

David

Edited by xtr2turbo, 22 June 2008 - 01:49 PM.

[Spoonz]

jack the car up

remove wheel

undo the big nut on the end of the driveshaft, left hand side is reverse thread by the way......

on the wishbone, unbolt the inner (engine side) rose joint,

leave the outer rosejoint, as you can pivot the wishbone nicely without removing it,

undo the top suspension nut and the anti roll bar nut,

tap the end of the drive shaft with a soft hammer and pull wishbone outwards

the driveshaft will go threw the hub,. and out,

easy

you will not need to remove the brake lines and handbrakes lines, (on mine anyway i didnt,) as long as you didnt do them to tight like a silly boy.,


still waiting on this fix from z cars as mine just did it again and im completely hacked off with it now

spoonz

[Pete649]

I have bought some super flexible neoprene boots. You can actually stretch them with a special tool to fit the small end over the whole boot!!

I will hopefully fitt them this week. Cab anyone advise how best to remove the drive shatfs please? do you need to unbolt the hub and remove brake caliper etc or will they just slide out with the shock obsorber disconnected.

Regards

David

Have you fitted them yet? What are they like?

[xtr2turbo]

Spoonz thanks for the tips.

Not fitted yet. Hopefully will be next weekend

Cheers

David

[Spoonz]

YAY THE OUTER ONE HAS GONE NOW AND I ONLY JUST REPLACED THE INSIDE ONE!!!

When will this be looked upon chris ?

spending more time taking the car apart instead of driving it.

[xtr2turbo]

YAY THE OUTER ONE HAS GONE NOW AND I ONLY JUST REPLACED THE INSIDE ONE!!!

When will this be looked upon chris ?

spending more time taking the car apart instead of driving it.

Spoonz what type of boots are you using? Are they neoprene flexible or rubber?

It is a pain though

David