Lightening My Own Flywheel
Started by
tony kenobi
, Dec 31 2007 07:34 PM
12 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 31 December 2007 - 07:34 PM
hi all, first up, happy new year to you all.
ive now been away from my mpi rebuild for 2 months and im dying to get stuck back into it again. my engine is out and im overhauling the lot. my dad is a percision engineer and has offeed to lightnen my current flywheel. but he has asked if anyone here would know by how much? (he does them all the time for hot rods etc)
if anyone has done anything like this, could they give me a shout? would be great,thanx
ive now been away from my mpi rebuild for 2 months and im dying to get stuck back into it again. my engine is out and im overhauling the lot. my dad is a percision engineer and has offeed to lightnen my current flywheel. but he has asked if anyone here would know by how much? (he does them all the time for hot rods etc)
if anyone has done anything like this, could they give me a shout? would be great,thanx
#2
Posted 31 December 2007 - 08:29 PM
Being an Mpi, it'll be a verto, which means.... not much...
#3
Posted 31 December 2007 - 10:22 PM
oh,ok, thanx anyway, thought id ask.the clutch being one area i havent got my head around yet.anyway, happy new year to you all!
#4
Posted 01 January 2008 - 01:14 PM
Just my 2p worth ....but my suggestion is dont mess with this..... Ive heard that Verto cant be lightened by much anyway but it dont take much imagination to consider where the shrapnell will end up if your Flywheel bursts mate.. (crosses legs an winces)....
I hear that conversions are posible to pre verto style and their are plaenty of places selling ultralight pre verto with good reputations so maybe this is the way to go.
DaveRob
I hear that conversions are posible to pre verto style and their are plaenty of places selling ultralight pre verto with good reputations so maybe this is the way to go.
DaveRob
#5
Posted 01 January 2008 - 01:45 PM
Yep, there's more scope and a wider choice of clutches with a non Verto. If it's an injection engine you'll have to sort the crank position tooth wheel though.
#6
Posted 01 January 2008 - 03:11 PM
I would second above and say for safety with verto, buy one lightened by reputable company.
#7
Posted 01 January 2008 - 06:57 PM
I sure hope you lighten and balance everything inside the block, i.e. crank and rods....those combined with a nice performance mpi head will do more than shearing a few grams off of the flywheel. as noted above, the preverto can take alot of lightening but the verto ones have a bit more stress to deal with considering the 2.76diff and 13" wheels for an mpi. If you want to get a bit of pep out then you could change diff ratios to mabye a 2.95 or drop from 13 to 12" wheels. sacrafice the top end for a nice acceleration boost.
#8
Posted 02 January 2008 - 09:42 AM
hi thanx for all the advice, im already running 12 wheels and hopefully will be gettig a stage 4 head, sw5 cam, got my janspeed lcb and 52mm throttle body.should make a difference to what was a completely standard mpi engine with on 30,000 on the clock!
#9
Posted 03 January 2008 - 06:26 PM
so will the engines out, im going to refurb the gearbox (well not me,but my neighbour) and from another thread on this board, i got a link to these
Minisport
what else should i change? ie bearings? will the above fix the crunch in 2nd? etc
im fitting a central oil pick up and a sw5 duplex kit while im there!
any advice would be great.thanx
Minisport
what else should i change? ie bearings? will the above fix the crunch in 2nd? etc
im fitting a central oil pick up and a sw5 duplex kit while im there!
any advice would be great.thanx
#10
Posted 03 January 2008 - 06:43 PM
That's an interesting bit, but they're a bit scant on the information!
Is it for an A+ box - what ratio's does it provide....? Won't do anything for crunchy gears - you need a new baulk ring.
Is it for an A+ box - what ratio's does it provide....? Won't do anything for crunchy gears - you need a new baulk ring.
#11
Posted 03 January 2008 - 07:48 PM
To inform you of the gear kit...
1. it's A series profile teeth, so you also need an A series 2nd gear and 3rd gear before you can put this into an A+ box...
2. You need to check with MiniSport what type of 3rd motion shaft the 1st motion is designed to mate with (either 14mm A series or 18mm A+)
3. If it's a true A series gear kit (ie use the A series 3rd motion shaft) then you'll need to modify the A+ box to fit it. And you'll also need an A series 3rd motion shaft.
4. You'll need to replace the Layshaft with an A series verson, not A+ as the laygear is a 22G1040
The actual ratios are those of the GT and cooper S, and the difference can be seen on my website.
Finally, that's F***ing cheap for the gearkit.. usually > £100 for the A+ variant ( which makes me suspect it's the A series one )
If you're rebuilding the gearbox you're better off leaving the gears asis and dumping the stupid 2.7 final drive (if it still has it)
1. it's A series profile teeth, so you also need an A series 2nd gear and 3rd gear before you can put this into an A+ box...
2. You need to check with MiniSport what type of 3rd motion shaft the 1st motion is designed to mate with (either 14mm A series or 18mm A+)
3. If it's a true A series gear kit (ie use the A series 3rd motion shaft) then you'll need to modify the A+ box to fit it. And you'll also need an A series 3rd motion shaft.
4. You'll need to replace the Layshaft with an A series verson, not A+ as the laygear is a 22G1040
The actual ratios are those of the GT and cooper S, and the difference can be seen on my website.
Finally, that's F***ing cheap for the gearkit.. usually > £100 for the A+ variant ( which makes me suspect it's the A series one )
If you're rebuilding the gearbox you're better off leaving the gears asis and dumping the stupid 2.7 final drive (if it still has it)
#12
Posted 03 January 2008 - 08:00 PM
yeah, plan on going to 3.1 for final gear.
so then, really leave whats there, so whats needed to get rid of the dreaded 2nd crunch?
and what else should be replaced to keep it going for another while. the box only has 30,000 on it.
Guessworks, only im in n ireland, id be sending it to you by the way,lol.
so then, really leave whats there, so whats needed to get rid of the dreaded 2nd crunch?
and what else should be replaced to keep it going for another while. the box only has 30,000 on it.
Guessworks, only im in n ireland, id be sending it to you by the way,lol.
#13
Posted 07 January 2008 - 04:20 PM
you will need a refurb kit like this for the baulk rings and all the seals....
on a similar note, I will be refurbing my box in the not too distant future, does anyone know where I can find all the various torque settings? they are not in the Haynes manual i have anyway
on a similar note, I will be refurbing my box in the not too distant future, does anyone know where I can find all the various torque settings? they are not in the Haynes manual i have anyway
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