Hey guys, sorry if this is in the wrong section, I figured it would be better here than in projects as people are more likely to see it and be able to offer advice or help for me.
I'm going to post up a list of all the things my car will have when its done, and if anybody can think of anything I may have missed, or anything that should be changed, or isn't suitable for it. I guess in a way i'm seeking approval before I go ahead and do it! At the mo I have a bare Clubby shell to play with, with manky paint and needing a front end, so now is the right time to be thinking about things that I may need to do to it.
Right, here we go:
Engine/Transmission
Morspeed 1293cc A+ block. Stage three unleaded cylinder head, phase three Morspeed fast road camshaft. Centre main strap. Duplex timing gears and chain, lightened and balanced crank, lightened rods, lightened and balanced flywheel, with Verto Turbo clutch (braided clutch hose). 1.5:1 ratio roller tip rockers. S/C 1:1 drop gears, four speed all synchro 'box, with X-pin differential, 3.44:1 ratio. (this is subject to possible improvement once Simon gets back to me with spec - but it will definitely stay as a 1293).
Engine Ancillaries
HIF44 SU carb, K&N cone filter, MG metro inlet manifold polished and matched to the head by Morspeed. Maniflow superior LCB, with full stainless 1.75" OD RC40 single box system, single pipe side exit. Minispares 'super-cool' 2 core radiator, silicon top hose, kevlar bottom hose, silicon heater hoses. Aldon yellow non-vac dizzy with Aldon 'Ignitor' electronic ignition, with Bosch leads and Bosch Super4 plugs. Total of 4 engine steadies (standard one, N/S rear to subframe, O/S front to subframe, and custom made top N/S head steady to bulkhead, all polybushed).
Brakes
Front - Cooper S 7.5" disc assemblies with Minispares alloy 4-pot calipers, Greenstuff pads. Goodrich braided hoses, brand new copper/brass brake pipes
Rear - 1275GT rear hubs with Minifin alloy drums, Goodrich braided hoses, brand new copper/brass brake pipes
Suspension
Front - 1.5deg negative camber bottom arms, heavy duty adjustable tie rods. KYB self adjust shocks, standard trumpets and rubber cones.
Rear - Adjustable camber/tracking brackets, KYB self adjust shocks, standard trumpets and rubber cones.
All bushes will be polybushed except tie rods, which will be poly/rubber.
Exterior
Standard 1978 Clubman shell, in Reinhardt Bronze metallic, with a black roof. 10x5" anthracite Minilites running Yoko A008 165/70x10 tyres. Group 2 arches, painted black. Standard bumpers, underriders, Mark 3 light clusters, halogen headlamps, chrome bullet wing mirrors, various other chrome bits and bobs, roof mounted aerial, CB mount in O/S rear quarter panel.
Interior
Safety Devices front and rear roll cage (rear with removable diagonal). Sabelt 4-point harnesses (mounted on re-inforcing plates halfway down the rear bulkhead). Cobra Clubman buckets, in black. KAD quickshift, centre console with Alpine stereo mounted. Mountney classic steering wheel (yoinked by my mate from a mini in a scrappers in the 70's, so is period!). A Dash Of Colour black vinyl dashboard with 1275GT three clock cluster, and TIM vac gauge, capillary oil pressure gauge and voltage gauge. Digital clock in top dash rail. Black front carpets, black door cards. No rear carpets, and battery isolator switch/fuel cut off tap mounted on rear tunnel. Infinity speakers in rear shelf and under rear seats.
Ok, i think I've got everything there, I know its dead long and pretty boring, but if anyone has any advice or recommendations or do's/don'ts then that would be cool!
Thanks
Tom
advice needed
Started by
Purple Tom
, Mar 22 2005 10:55 PM
3 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 22 March 2005 - 10:55 PM
#2
Posted 23 March 2005 - 12:12 AM
Engine...
Pros MSPD & X pin Diff
Cons: Ditch the veto clutch and get a proper diaphram clutch with an ultra light steel flywheel and back plate
Ancils...
Pros: Maniflow system, aldon dizzy and ignitor
Cons: Bosch sparks ( cack IMO ) stick with the std NGK BP6/7ES
Brakes
Suspension:
Front (IMO) leave as standard but lowered you'll get a degree or so -ve by doing that. and go to shortened shocks.( probably Spax )
Rear: just use adjustble camber brackets only, tracking can be adjusted using shims between the bracket and subframe ( and is much less liable to move )
Hilos all round but agree with poly except on tie/rods
Also would solid mount the front subframe
Exterior:
Interior: excellent, but ditch the alipine, you'll not hear it anyway ! :cheese:
There ya go, my 5 p's worth
Pros MSPD & X pin Diff
Cons: Ditch the veto clutch and get a proper diaphram clutch with an ultra light steel flywheel and back plate
Ancils...
Pros: Maniflow system, aldon dizzy and ignitor
Cons: Bosch sparks ( cack IMO ) stick with the std NGK BP6/7ES
Brakes
Suspension:
Front (IMO) leave as standard but lowered you'll get a degree or so -ve by doing that. and go to shortened shocks.( probably Spax )
Rear: just use adjustble camber brackets only, tracking can be adjusted using shims between the bracket and subframe ( and is much less liable to move )
Hilos all round but agree with poly except on tie/rods
Also would solid mount the front subframe
Exterior:
Interior: excellent, but ditch the alipine, you'll not hear it anyway ! :cheese:
There ya go, my 5 p's worth
#3
Posted 24 March 2005 - 09:09 AM
brilliant, thanks Guessworks!
I wasn't sure whether to go hi-lo's or not, as I don't really have any plans to lower it, but if you think they're a good idea then I might well get some.
Am going to lose the stereo too, like you say I won't be able to hear it, and i'm sure the car will make plenty of nice noises for me to listen to anyway!
The reason I went for Verto is because I found using the earlier inertia starter interfered with the timing of the dizzy, as when advancing it the electronic ignition module on the side of the housing on standard dizzy's fouled the starter (the pre-engaged starter is about 2" shorter so it doesn't foul). The only way to get around it was to take the dizzy drive shaft out and rotate it back a tooth. I didn't fancy doing that with the MSPD engine as I didn't want to mess around with it too much internally. But the Aldon unit now has the Ignitor inside, so I can return to the inertia starter/non verto clutch/flywheel and still be able to set the timing correctly!
Thanks for the advice
tom
I wasn't sure whether to go hi-lo's or not, as I don't really have any plans to lower it, but if you think they're a good idea then I might well get some.
Am going to lose the stereo too, like you say I won't be able to hear it, and i'm sure the car will make plenty of nice noises for me to listen to anyway!
The reason I went for Verto is because I found using the earlier inertia starter interfered with the timing of the dizzy, as when advancing it the electronic ignition module on the side of the housing on standard dizzy's fouled the starter (the pre-engaged starter is about 2" shorter so it doesn't foul). The only way to get around it was to take the dizzy drive shaft out and rotate it back a tooth. I didn't fancy doing that with the MSPD engine as I didn't want to mess around with it too much internally. But the Aldon unit now has the Ignitor inside, so I can return to the inertia starter/non verto clutch/flywheel and still be able to set the timing correctly!
Thanks for the advice
tom
#4
Posted 28 March 2005 - 11:33 AM
I got a 1293 but from MED... there the mutts nuts!!
1293cc
Lightened Flywheel and bk plate
Stage 3 MED Head (lose ur hand in it!)
286 kent cam
1.5 roller tips
S/C Drops
86 bhp @ wheels
And it redlines in forth!!
Great Engine size
just need my mini bk on the road now!
1293cc
Lightened Flywheel and bk plate
Stage 3 MED Head (lose ur hand in it!)
286 kent cam
1.5 roller tips
S/C Drops
86 bhp @ wheels
And it redlines in forth!!
Great Engine size
just need my mini bk on the road now!
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