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Just Bought An Mpi


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#31 Sprocket

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 09:40 PM

Itle be that diff killing the box

Dont forget that despite the mileage, the cars are at least 8 years old. And its normaly, from my mini ownership experience, the time they start playing up requiring slightly more attention.

Its just the way it is, but the 2.7 final drive doesnt help

#32 redhotmini

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 03:46 PM

touch wood, mine hasnt had gearbox problems. its done just under 70,000 miles, and will have done over 85,000 miles by the end of this year. (its a 2000 cooper, on little 12" wheels). goes like poo off a shovel, even though its got the silly 2.7 gearbox munchin diff in it.
the scuttle panel tends to rust out quicker than earlier minis, mine has gone all the way along the bottom of the windscreen and 1/4 way up one A pillar, so im getting that done, along with the electric fan fault, but on mine the fan doesnt work when you need it, so just going to wire in a switch for that. going to fit a high capacity rad, and coil springs to soak up another 15,000 miles this year.

#33 miniboy1971

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 04:21 PM

bluesmoke - as you're going to the expense of having the engine out to sort the cruching gears, why don't you consider changing the final drive, it's probably the cheapest way of improving the performance without resorting to heads, cams, rockers, etc and potential problems with emissions...

Penalty will be an increase in revs/noise at motorway speed and the levels will vary depending on the final ratio - 3.44 will be a big improvement on acceleration, but will lower the top speed a little, 3.105 is a nice compromise if you do a lot of motorway work and not too interested in traffic light drag racing.

I've got a Yr 2000 sportspack with a JCG conversion. I went for the 3.105 which I knew wouldn't make a massive improvement to standing start acceleration, but it's now more useable around town (can use all four gears now) and motorway acceleration has improved. I also added a twin pin diff and AP rally clutch plate.

If the engine ever needs to come out again (rover had it out four times during the warranty period) I might consider the 3.44 !!!

Bill Richards (who done an excellent installation for me) was pushing me to go for a 4.1 or higher to really exploit the extra bhp I had, but I'm not really into hill climbs - ha ha....!!!

I'm sure others will chip in with more (better) suggestions...!!!

Edited by miniboy1971, 05 January 2008 - 04:23 PM.


#34 elvisthepizzaman

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 04:47 PM

over here in the states the 2.76 diff is a very nice thing to have as we have lots and lots of distance to drive and lots of highway travel. I would recommend going to a2.95 or a 3.1 but first thing I would do is go to a narrow 12" wheel. Ive noticed that the latter rover minis rust way faster then previous years and I believe its due to a lack of seam sealant on the panels, so when I got my car I went around on the underside and seamsealed all the panel gaps, and whenever I do a suspension greasing I take the old grease that oozes out and smear it around places that will rust out like the side marker lamp holes and the headlamp buckets and the front half of the sills. so far its keeping the rust under control. Get some waxoyl to spray into the sills and, if you can feed the line up, into the lower windshield panel

I think a can of electrical contact cleaner should be something to carry in your boot. all the problems ive encountered have been dirty connectors and a gummed up stepper motor.

Edited by elvisthepizzaman, 05 January 2008 - 06:36 PM.


#35 bluesmoke

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 06:52 PM

bluesmoke - as you're going to the expense of having the engine out to sort the cruching gears, why don't you consider changing the final drive, it's probably the cheapest way of improving the performance without resorting to heads, cams, rockers, etc and potential problems with emissions...

Penalty will be an increase in revs/noise at motorway speed and the levels will vary depending on the final ratio - 3.44 will be a big improvement on acceleration, but will lower the top speed a little, 3.105 is a nice compromise if you do a lot of motorway work and not too interested in traffic light drag racing.

I've got a Yr 2000 sportspack with a JCG conversion. I went for the 3.105 which I knew wouldn't make a massive improvement to standing start acceleration, but it's now more useable around town (can use all four gears now) and motorway acceleration has improved. I also added a twin pin diff and AP rally clutch plate.

If the engine ever needs to come out again (rover had it out four times during the warranty period) I might consider the 3.44 !!!

Bill Richards (who done an excellent installation for me) was pushing me to go for a 4.1 or higher to really exploit the extra bhp I had, but I'm not really into hill climbs - ha ha....!!!

I'm sure others will chip in with more (better) suggestions...!!!


Yeah , already emailed (john) guessworks and he fits a 3.44 as standard and can give me a 3.1 for a extra cost , so i'll be now sticking with the standard 3.44. Should be quite an improvment & fun, just the thought of having it all done thats getting to me , not to mention the costs involved .

ive learnt a lot since owning it only for two weeks and in hindsight i would have gone for a earlier carbed mini.
My local garage is recommened by "moss europe " who are also very close to me, so this guy whos removin the motor knows what he is doin .

When he realised it was a mpi he just sighed and said it will just take a little longer to lift out , due to all the electrics apart from that its just as any other . so im hoping it works just as is because its running really smooth & well at the moment.

He was well aware that the later injection models eat gearbox's , mostly 2nd gear .

so the plan is - 3.44 gearbox off guessworks
engine out at garage
fit new box
send old one back to john
= one big bill ARGGHHHHHHHH

QUESTION , i might as well stick a new clutch in . and whats a twin pin diff ....

TA phil..

#36 miniboy1971

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 07:53 PM

bluesmoke - as you're going to the expense of having the engine out to sort the cruching gears, why don't you consider changing the final drive, it's probably the cheapest way of improving the performance without resorting to heads, cams, rockers, etc and potential problems with emissions...

Penalty will be an increase in revs/noise at motorway speed and the levels will vary depending on the final ratio - 3.44 will be a big improvement on acceleration, but will lower the top speed a little, 3.105 is a nice compromise if you do a lot of motorway work and not too interested in traffic light drag racing.

I've got a Yr 2000 sportspack with a JCG conversion. I went for the 3.105 which I knew wouldn't make a massive improvement to standing start acceleration, but it's now more useable around town (can use all four gears now) and motorway acceleration has improved. I also added a twin pin diff and AP rally clutch plate.

If the engine ever needs to come out again (rover had it out four times during the warranty period) I might consider the 3.44 !!!

Bill Richards (who done an excellent installation for me) was pushing me to go for a 4.1 or higher to really exploit the extra bhp I had, but I'm not really into hill climbs - ha ha....!!!

I'm sure others will chip in with more (better) suggestions...!!!


Yeah , already emailed (john) guessworks and he fits a 3.44 as standard and can give me a 3.1 for a extra cost , so i'll be now sticking with the standard 3.44. Should be quite an improvment & fun, just the thought of having it all done thats getting to me , not to mention the costs involved .

ive learnt a lot since owning it only for two weeks and in hindsight i would have gone for a earlier carbed mini.
My local garage is recommened by "moss europe " who are also very close to me, so this guy whos removin the motor knows what he is doin .

When he realised it was a mpi he just sighed and said it will just take a little longer to lift out , due to all the electrics apart from that its just as any other . so im hoping it works just as is because its running really smooth & well at the moment.

He was well aware that the later injection models eat gearbox's , mostly 2nd gear .

so the plan is - 3.44 gearbox off guessworks
engine out at garage
fit new box
send old one back to john
= one big bill ARGGHHHHHHHH

QUESTION , i might as well stick a new clutch in . and whats a twin pin diff ....

TA phil..


You should notice a real difference with the 3.44 final drive and the 12" wheel set up shown in the photo.

I was advised to put in the twin pin diff ( 4 pinion drive ) as a precautionary measure and used this one from MiniSport (MSLMS0516).

Attached File  4_pin_dif_pot_joint_type.jpg   23.6K   6 downloads

The standard diff was not really meant to deal with the extra power you get from these aftermarket 80-90BHP kits and the extra heavy 13" sportspack wheels, so whilst everything was in bits, it was suggested I stick this in rather than wait for it all to break !!!

As you've not indicated any increase in power at this stage and you're sticking with the 12" wheels, this may not be necessary, but if you have other plans for the future, it might be worth sticking in now.....

Others here may have different opinions - so please don't just take my word for it !!!!

Good luck with the work - sounds like you'll have nicely sorted mini when its all done.. >_<

Let us all know what you think of the difference in performance.....

Cheers.

Edited by miniboy1971, 05 January 2008 - 07:54 PM.


#37 bluesmoke

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 08:10 PM

ahh, gotcha

Thanks for the pic , im going standard for the moment lol .

phil

#38 redhotmini

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 09:41 PM

if yore sticking with a 3.44 std style diff, make sure they fit a hardened diff pin, doesnt cost much more than a gen rover one (which is not brilliant) and will cope better with any future engine tuning, as well as lasting ages.

#39 miniboy1971

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Posted 06 January 2008 - 08:00 PM

Just had a thought.....you will need to re-calibrate your speedo as it will be over estimating.

If I remember correctly, you have to take some measurements and send these and the speedo itself away for recalibration.

Speedy Cables are the people (might be others). Details are on their website...www.speedycables.com....

When I enquired some time ago, it was a two week turnaround (varies according to their workload). I left it as I couldn't do without mine for a fortnight....must get this sorted really.....!!

Might be worth having yours done whilst the gearbox and final drive are being fixed ...sorry more expense !!! :-

#40 bluesmoke

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Posted 06 January 2008 - 08:22 PM

Just had a thought.....you will need to re-calibrate your speedo as it will be over estimating.

If I remember correctly, you have to take some measurements and send these and the speedo itself away for recalibration.

Speedy Cables are the people (might be others). Details are on their website...www.speedycables.com....

When I enquired some time ago, it was a two week turnaround (varies according to their workload). I left it as I couldn't do without mine for a fortnight....must get this sorted really.....!!

Might be worth having yours done whilst the gearbox and final drive are being fixed ...sorry more expense !!! :-

i


When i recieved a pm from guessworks he wrote this

quote " it'll also muck up your speedo a little but that can be remedied by altering the speedo ratios in the gearbox.. "

not sure what this means , but im going to phone john tomorrow and get a box bought .

#41 pinch

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 12:51 PM

does anyone know if rover bothered changin speedo drives etc for the 12" and 13" wheel mpis?

tomsbluemini, if you ever need it plugging into a diagnostic computer give me a shout, i've got one. i love my mpi, but yes they aren't good gearbox wise, and some rust badly! if the fan stays on it's a wiring problem, not a fault with the fan. rover used to sell a new loom section for the fan which was a little longer i believe to prevent wires chafing.

#42 james962

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 02:08 PM

Just had a thought.....you will need to re-calibrate your speedo as it will be over estimating.

If I remember correctly, you have to take some measurements and send these and the speedo itself away for recalibration.

Speedy Cables are the people (might be others). Details are on their website...www.speedycables.com....

When I enquired some time ago, it was a two week turnaround (varies according to their workload). I left it as I couldn't do without mine for a fortnight....must get this sorted really.....!!

Might be worth having yours done whilst the gearbox and final drive are being fixed ...sorry more expense !!! :ermm:

i


When i recieved a pm from guessworks he wrote this

quote " it'll also muck up your speedo a little but that can be remedied by altering the speedo ratios in the gearbox.. "

not sure what this means , but im going to phone john tomorrow and get a box bought .


there are two speedo gears that mesh together, and these can be changed so that your speedo will read correctly. However, not all the drives will mesh with each other. You need to find out how far out your speedo is/will read, and then look for a ratio that matches or the one that is closest to the ratio needed.




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