My brother is letting me use his Alloy 4 pots he has lying round in the garage, will be purrfect for nuburg, and it saves them from getting dusty in the garage!
Anything speckal need to be done to fit these? they are on metro turbo vented discs at the mo, been ground down to fit under 10"'s... shall i chuck some 10" wheels on my mini, fit 8.4" discs, or just used the machined down turbo discs with my 12"s??
I have a set of 10" x 6" minilights, might .look quite funky on my mini!
Also, how much of a job is it to replace a ball joint? it says in the haynes to fit some sort of block before jacking the car up?!?! but doesn't go to any more much detail than that. I have some 1.5 -ve camber bottom arms, and Adj tie rods to go on at the same time, and wanted to do it all together!
I have the nut to go over the ball joint, but not a ball joint seperator! have a large selection of hammers tho!
atb
Rich
Alloy 4 pots, and bottom ball joints!
Started by
P91MER
, Mar 30 2005 12:17 AM
3 replies to this topic
#2
Jordie
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Traders Area Specialist Mod, North and Scotland Area Manager
- Name: Jordan
- Location: North East
Posted 30 March 2005 - 12:23 AM
Ball joint splitter is useful, not needed but helps loads. Worth £5-10 and its always there.
U will need a big socket, both size and depth. Otherwise u cannot get the socket over the balljoint.
I got a local garage to do mine, i supplied em, cost me a tenner and was ready in a hour.
U will need a big socket, both size and depth. Otherwise u cannot get the socket over the balljoint.
I got a local garage to do mine, i supplied em, cost me a tenner and was ready in a hour.
#3
Dan
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On Sabbatical
Posted 30 March 2005 - 05:54 PM
The block of wood goes under the top arm where it hits the rebound rubber. It's to stop the suspension dropping down under the spring laod so that you can force the top and bottom arms apart easily to get the upright out. Without doing this it's tricky to say the least.
If you have Metro Turbo discs and callipers you will need Metro Turbo drive flanges (with the lugs ground off if you get lugged ones) and ERA calliper bolts to hold the callipers on. You may also need to grind some of the steering arm away where the bolts pass through it as it can rub the disc. DO NOT grind off very much, as you will seriously weken the steering arm.
If you have Metro Turbo discs and callipers you will need Metro Turbo drive flanges (with the lugs ground off if you get lugged ones) and ERA calliper bolts to hold the callipers on. You may also need to grind some of the steering arm away where the bolts pass through it as it can rub the disc. DO NOT grind off very much, as you will seriously weken the steering arm.
#4
P91MER
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Ring Runner 2005
Posted 30 March 2005 - 09:52 PM
ahh.. you single 1 answer Dan has made a whooole world more sense than the Finity boys, they were chapping on about 'S drive flanges and all sorts!!
I had a trial fit of the discs today, and they were rubbing on the steering arm, the discs are already connected to some Metro turbo drive flanges.
I don't know what to do tho, as the discs won't fit over 8.4" discs, i won't reap the benefits of going 4 pots! Unless i fit some 10" wheeels..
My pads on my standard discs are going to need replacing VERY soon, one side of one pad was getting very thin on the top to say the least! so will need to make a decision soon, as these have brand new pads.
I had a trial fit of the discs today, and they were rubbing on the steering arm, the discs are already connected to some Metro turbo drive flanges.
I don't know what to do tho, as the discs won't fit over 8.4" discs, i won't reap the benefits of going 4 pots! Unless i fit some 10" wheeels..
My pads on my standard discs are going to need replacing VERY soon, one side of one pad was getting very thin on the top to say the least! so will need to make a decision soon, as these have brand new pads.
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