Really, really need help
Started by
Jammy
, Mar 30 2005 09:15 PM
28 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 01 April 2005 - 12:50 PM
Yea, I realise this, but can't they be done at the same time, whilst the head if off, or does the engine need to be out to do the rings?
#17
Posted 01 April 2005 - 01:04 PM
hello just hazarding a guess, maybe your gettign to much electricity to the plug and there blowing up??
#18
Posted 01 April 2005 - 02:57 PM
the head gasket is a job from the top and rings a engine out job from the bottom
#19
Posted 01 April 2005 - 03:20 PM
Ah C**p, hope the rings are fine then!!! Doesn't sound like they are though from the high oil consumption! That is what gives you high oil consumption isn't it? If the rings haven't bedded in properly?!
#20
Posted 01 April 2005 - 06:04 PM
anything that allows oil into the cylinders causes oil consumption. this is rings or valve seal (it shouldnt be these if its a new engine). honing is deglazing the cylinders, not boring which increases bore. if an engine isnt run in properly before thrashing, it can damage new bearings and fresh bores. the rings dont bed into the bores properly, and can score them in the worst case. this would let oil through. bubbling into the radiator is probably a headgasket letting air from the cylinders into the water. if you get steam from the exhaust its another sign of this. when the engines cold, run it with the rad cap off and see if you get bubbles.
sorry for the essay, just realised i was rambling a bit
Leonard
sorry for the essay, just realised i was rambling a bit
Leonard
#21
Posted 02 April 2005 - 08:13 AM
Don't need to apologise, I need as much info as possible!!! When I get home i'll run engine without rad cap and see what I see. How easy is it to replace the valve seal?!
#22
Posted 02 April 2005 - 09:00 AM
valve stem oil seals can be done with the engine in the car, but you will need to find some way of stopping the valves dropping down into the cylinder. The best way is to modify an old spark plug (drill it through the centre), and use compressed air to pressurize the cylinder, which in turn will stop the valves from dropping, then use a valve spring compressor to remove the collets and spring, replace the seal then put them back on. You do have to be very careful though.
Alternatively its a very easy job once the head is off, you just whip each valve out using a valve spring compressor, put a new stem seal on each and bobs your uncle. Takes about 3 minutes per valve.
Alternatively its a very easy job once the head is off, you just whip each valve out using a valve spring compressor, put a new stem seal on each and bobs your uncle. Takes about 3 minutes per valve.
#23
Posted 02 April 2005 - 09:24 AM
Ahh thats cool, it looks like I may have to replace the head gasket anyway!
#24
Posted 02 April 2005 - 04:50 PM
Latest epsiode in the engine saga! Have just done a compression test on all the cylinders and they are all fine, all were about 10.5 psi. One odd thing I noticed when i took the sparks plugs out however was the fact that the spark plugs on cylinders 1, 2 and 4 were a bit cokey, whereas the spark plug on cylinder 3 was absolutely fine, just had petrol on it as if nothing was being burnt on cylinder 3?! Does this mean a stuck vavle or something?!
#25
Posted 02 April 2005 - 05:01 PM
All mine were like that. Replace the plug and see if there is any difference. You maybe lucky that the spark plug is dodgy.
#26
Posted 02 April 2005 - 05:02 PM
Thats with a new dizzy cap, new spark plugs, new leads (went back to old ones though as they are much better).
#27
Posted 02 April 2005 - 05:20 PM
Not looking good
#28
Posted 03 April 2005 - 02:50 PM
sometimes burning oil can make things "cokey". the bad running could be due to it not being setup right on ignition or fuelling, but it shouldnt change with fiddling or parts changing. have u spoken to the engine supplier?
#29
Posted 03 April 2005 - 05:28 PM
Not yet, will be making a phone call to him tomorrow (monday)
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