6 replies to this topic

[Joolsy]

God did not invent needle bearings... The Devil must have...

Can anyone please give me any advice on getting a siezed top arm pivot out from the subframe.

All the nuts, plates, washers etc came off no problem but the shaft is solid in the arm. Ive tried all manner of prybars and things and Ive just drilled a small hole in the floorpan and used a punch from that side but no ammout of hammering will budge it

Il be using a repair kit on the top arm so has anyone ever cutt one off somehow to get it out ? Any advice and help most welcome.

Thanks in advance Joolsy

[Guess-Works.com]

Only advice I can give is it the shaft is that solid, it is fairly likely that the arm is going to be trollied aswell...

but, instead of trying to push/drift it out from under the car, have you tried pulling it out using the nut , spacer washer and a tube ?

Edited by GuessWorks, 04 April 2005 - 08:42 AM.

[AndyM]

Hi there,
Exact same thing happened to me a few weeks back. I hacksawed the thread off the rear of the seized bar and the arm lifted straight out. I used a new junior hacksaw blade and it went through in 2 minutes. I managed to get the blade onto the shaft on the inside of the subframe tower. If you hacksaw it off outside the tower, there'll still be a bit of thread in the hole where the shaft passes through the subframe and you still won't get it out.
I had to replace the whole arm as the front roller bearings had collapsed, knackered the arm, and worn a shoulder onto the shaft, which is why it wouldn't come out forwards. Once it was off the subframe, the shaft slid easily out the back of the arm. Got a new arm and shaft kit from Minisport for a great price, with the bearings already pressed into the arm. Just be careful when you put the new one in, as on mine it took 3 attempts. The arm kept locking up again as I tightened the nuts onto the thrust washers. In the end it was still a bit tight, but it's loosening up with use. I just hope it's not destroying the new one like it did the old.
Hope this helps! Andy.

[SCURVY DOG]

just put me sun glasses on those colours are bright :cool:

[Bluemini]

Are they already honed when you buy the kit like that? If you buy a re-build kit, once the bearings are pressed in then you have to get them honed out to accept the shaft and to make sure its all straight.

[AndyM]

They're roller bearings, you can't hone them, can you? Are you thinking of the radius arm bearings? If you're right, then that would explain why mine was so stiff, I just put it together as it came. Andy

[Dan]

It is only the rear radius arm bronze bush which needs reaming, all the needle rollers are fine as fitted.
As Andy says, you can't ream a roller bearing!


Of course the suspension would last much longer if it was all made with bronze bushes instead of roller bearings but that's another story......