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Sub frame removal and coild fitting


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#1 t@z

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Posted 06 April 2005 - 11:02 AM

hi there

has anyone got any advice for a first time mini machanic going to work at the weekend...

i have to do the following:

1) remove engine
2) REMOVE subframes and paint
3) fit all the stuff again and fit new coil and damper kit

any sort of manual or general do's and don't

it'll probably take me a bit longer than one weekend but HELP :(

#2 Cir-clipalot

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Posted 06 April 2005 - 12:16 PM

omg quite a lot for a first time! since i took one engine out on sat and another out on mon I'll comment on no.1 and leave some for everyone else!
Obviously tag everything as you disconnect all the leads etc, also if you've a digital camera use it to take pics at every stage, this will make reassembly a lot easier.
when you remove fuel line from pump have something handy to stop fuel spilling out, a chopstick works quite well!!!
On a clubman it helps to take the dizzy cap off and to loosen the alternator bolts and swing it towards the block. On a roundnose there's even less room but its been a few months since ive done this on a roundnose so maybe someone else can advise!
Getting the roll pin out of the gear linkage can be tricky, my method is to engage 1st gear (obviously do that BEFORE removing the selector box steady rod) and hit the pin nearest the engine (there are 2, i leave the one furthest from the engine alone) in the directions FROM n/s wheel TO o/s steering wheel if that makes sense, ie to the o/s and upwards. This works but my roll pin punch catches on the diff case a bit, there may be a better way. Mini shops sell the right roll pin you'll need and to do it this way you may need to move the n/s axle stand back a bit (i.e supporting the front subframe from the back rather than from the flat in the middle on this side) to get a good swing. and it'll need a good whack!
It makes life easier later on if you can remove the inner CV boots without just cutting them open , although cutting them open is the quick way. Just undo the top balljoint and trackrod end on each side and the inner joints will be out of the way. (and this afternoon im going hunting for one of the balls inside which has rolled away and hidden somewhere!!)
Engine mounts are a ******* to remove, but can be done with patience, and it helps to have some help :( When theyre out weld on captive nuts because otherwise bolting em back in is 10 times worse!!
Leave the speedo cable until the engine is in the air, but dont forget to disconnect it from the gearbox in all the engine-lifting excitement!
I lift engines by passing a strong rope twice around it, the ribs in the gearbox casing stop it slipping. Make sure the rope's not gonna squeeze anything when under tension and doesnt catch on exhaust studs, spark plugs etc. When lifting the main thing to watch out for is the diff casing which will catch on the rear of the subframe. Obviously when using a crane follow the safety blah blah blah, engines are heavy. Also try to set up the crane so that it lifts the engine straight upwards, if you use say just the top half of the crane's travel because it pivots in a circle you will find the engine moves towards the front of teh car when you want it to go straight up (hope I've expressed this so that it makes sense!)
THats all i can think of for now. just follow haynes or whatever for the rest, and take your time. Haynes says it takes 4 and a half hours or less.
good luck!! altho seriously this is not a first time job!!!

#3 t@z

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Posted 06 April 2005 - 01:49 PM

think after reading that i might enroll the help of my mate...he's taken engines out of both his polos and refitted.....reckon that help a bit..?? :(

if not i'll have to wait till next weekend when my mate whos studying somethign motorsport at uni and is a dab hand a car machanics..

dam

anyway anymore advice will help loads for when i eventually come to doing it. :(

thanks clip for the above i will print or when i attempt

#4 Leonard

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Posted 06 April 2005 - 07:19 PM

it'd be easier with a mate. me and my dad got the engine out in about 4 hours. i've got a jig that is a copy of a copy of a BL lifting jig. it bolts onto 2 of the rocker studs (bit iffy if you ask me) and stretches towards the front of the engine a couple of inches, which swings the diff away from the subrame. its got a bar between the two bolting holes. you may aswell fit new bushes and mounts while everything is off. three people can just about lift out an engine out of the car.
the other way to take an engine out is undo the subframe mounts and engine to car parts and lift the bodyshell off the subframe. ive never tried this one tho

#5 Bluemini

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Posted 06 April 2005 - 08:45 PM

Engine out isnt as hard as it sounds, I could do it 30 mins with Blue. Subframes are fairly straight forward, appart from trying to get the brake lines undo as they can get a little seized and round off or snap. The rear subframe might be a bit worse for wear too once you give it a good clean up. Me and my mate did a rear subframe sway one evening in the dark and it took around 5 hours, that was including swaping the cones and radius arms etc.

Good luck tho, its the only way to learn :(

#6 Woody

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Posted 06 April 2005 - 09:13 PM

it is a lot quicker to unbolt the front subframe and lift the car (if you are removing the subframe afterwards anyway)
or
just to fit the coilovers and paint the subframe , no need to remove the engine from the frame at all once it is removed
Note ! when removing the subframe this way with the engine still attatched , I allways remove the radiator first to avoid damage .




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