18 replies to this topic

[DaveRob]

I understand that to dry deck properly you have to drill and tap all the water transfer holes in the block then fit an adapter to the core plug and use a hose up to the cylinder head where you fit another adapter..... but where is the hole drilled and faced in the head?.... and what sort of diameter is the hose.....

As I work as an engineer and have access to all the required machinery and tooling I thought this would be an easy mod to do in the process of up specing my SPi A series. Its all in the planning.......

Any pictures of the coolant transfer pipe on someones engine would be much appriciated.

Thanks in advance.

[Dan]

MED sell a kit of all the parts you will need. The head is drilled in the back end, above the engine steady rod and below the heater outlet.

MED kit.

[DaveRob]

Thanks Dan for a quick reply.... I saw the MED kit... just thought that looking at it £150 was a lot to pay for something I can easilly fabricate. The I can turn some alloy adapters, maybe even make them look super sexy in stainless....would cost me nill GBP.... even blanking the water transfers by making brass gallery plugs and tapping the head and block costs me zero GBP. Facing the block and then skimming the head, ( which I have to do anyways), will cost me again zero..... all the fitings I can get in high spec materials so again cost nil.... Silicon hose is easy to find... altho mine might not have a fancy logo on it but I can get it in colours...lol so really all I need to know is where to put my free holes in the block and head. Then I have another £150 to spend on stuff I cant make like maybe these...

http://www.swiftune....ip-rockers.aspx

of course my time is 'free' at least to me... lmao

Edited by DaveRob, 10 February 2008 - 10:26 AM.

[rozzer!]

what is dry decking? i have never heard of it before.

[DaveRob]

Dry decking stops the water transfer between the head and the block. but you have to change the way the water flows. taking away the block to head transfer via the head gasket benifits A the gasket life in high spec engines and B stops pot 4 heating up more than the others.... a common prob on A series engines....equalises cylinder block temperatures so improving power and reliability. Dry deck means no water is in contact with the head gasket. No more pressurisation of the cooling system and less chance of water-in-oil, but has to be done right...lol else it will be like running without a thermostat.... really bad....

Edited by DaveRob, 10 February 2008 - 10:50 AM.

[Sprocket]

Dry deck the block and head properly, dont use the MED dry deck gasket as that actualy defeats the point of going dry deck.

The main reason anyone considers dry deck is that when the head gasket fails, it will at least get you to the end of a race. If there is coolant there you wont finish the race.

I am running dry deck on the 16v engine as it makes an easy choice on head gasket. Many top fuel drag racers dont even feed the block with coolant, it all goes through the head, I dont think I would go that far

Swiftune kit is the one http://www.swiftune....y-deck-kit.aspx

Use brass taper plugs, drill and tap the block, srcew in the brass plugs using a little Loctite 648 retaining compound, and get both head and block skimmed. You can go as far as plugging the oil feed as well, remove the gallery plug in the end of the head and run an oil feed from the oil pressure switch on the block up to the head, that way achieving a proper dry deck. Basicaly when you look at the block and head, the only holes are the head stud holes. Looks odd but it does work and you get a decant flow through the block and head.

The inlet to the head is on the flywheel end, I think it needs milling flat and then drilling for the adapter. The block outlet is the core plug again at the flywheel end but the one nearest the front of the car.

A man of your means should have no trouble with this

[DaveRob]

Now thats what I call...... AN ANSWER...... concise and accurate.... cheers Sprocket... see you soon.... if im not stuck in the machine shop too long.

[D.y001]

Hi I have just bought a k1200 head and im going down the dry dack route but what I wanted to know is whether you have to use brass plugs or could you just wind in steel bolst and then just get the face trued up? if I need brass plugs do I have to make them or can they be bought?

[mini13]

last time I checked turbophils drydeck takeoffs were the cheapest I could find, http://www.turbo-mini.com/accessories/

 

basically they are sized to slide into the coreplug hole on the end of the block, and then you machine the head to the same size.

 

a good photo on phils site, http://www.turbo-mini.com/services/

Edited by mini13, 05 September 2017 - 05:44 PM.

[Spider]

Fir the plugs in the decks, I use Cast Iron threaded plugs. They are comercially available. Fit up with thread sealer.

 

Then, they don't move, but be aware, can be painful to remove down the track.

 

I respect you have your reasons for going this way, but if a road car, it's not the way I'd go.

[grizzler73]

Is it best to plug both head and block? I was thinking to do this as the GTM needs all the cooling help it can get with the engine in the back.

[nicklouse]

Is it best to plug both head and block? I was thinking to do this as the GTM needs all the cooling help it can get with the engine in the back.

yes both then there is no liquid at the gasket.

 

also consider the cooling needs for the head and the block are actually different so take it a step further with two cooling systems at different temps. running two electric water pumps. or one electric and one mechanical if you want the fan in the back.

 

But i would look to front mounting the rad with two fans anyway.

[grizzler73]

Oh yes it will have a front rad with 2 fans, I'm not allowed an electric pump but the higher capacity pump you can get should help.

[grizzler73]

So to fully dry deck with oil transfer holes blanked too, (I will be using a remote filter housing because of access issues) will I need to blank off where the filter housing fits to the block with a plate and union so I can run to the cooler, then on to the hole in the block at the flywheel end of the engine. Then do I need to take a link off at that point to attach to the head? Where do you attach the head link? Assuming I have that right in the first place

[Leonrjohnson]

These are some pics of my 970 S engine that I dry decked. Works great . I blanked off the water pump and head bypass fittings, and use a blanking sleeve instead of a thermostat, and have run this engine on the street for 3 years without a hitch.

 

https://get.google.c...7hgB75uK-Ox0wiI