5 replies to this topic

[Purple Tom]

Hi everybody!

Right, i've a few questions regarding my recently acquired 1990 Cooper.

You might remember me saying that the previous owner had connected the temperature sender wire to the permanent 12V live on the starter soleniod. I got hold of a new temperature sender unit, and I'm not sure if the gauge isn't knackered. The heater blows nice and warm, but the temperature gauge never makes it much past the blue at the bottom. BUT, the gauge's positions don't vary with the voltage (ie revs), so i'm not sure whats happening. Its possible I guess that the engine doesn't have a thermostat fitted, and a really good rad, but even after a good 15 mile drive the temperature hardly climbs at all. If it turns out it is the voltage regulator, whereabouts is it on the car (its fitted with the later type Nippon three clock cluster I believe), and how much is a new one?

Also, the second gear synchro is knackered in the 'box. It jumps out of second on every opportunity on the overrun, and crunches on down and upshifts. So I have obtained a new 'box (from another Metro, 3.44 diff), thats in good nick. As a matter of course I am fitting a centre oil pick up pipe to this box, and when the engines out next week I will fit a new oil pump and water pump to the engine. I have a two core rad fitted to my Clubby, so I was going to fit one of those too. Can anyone think of anything else?

Finally, I've noticed that the engine seems a bit hesitant in the mid range. I think its running slightly lean in this position. It seems to hold back, then when you floor it it just jumps forward, and feels more comfy at lower revs too. But in the middle it really chugs. Do you think that it will just need a replacement needle?

Cheers in advance!!

Tom

[Bungle]

how about a new cam while the engines out

[Purple Tom]

yeah I was thinking that, but what to do? I'm told the MG Metro engine has a duplex timing chain as standard, is that right?

Do I go 276, or SW5, or stick with the standard MG cam? I'm not really sure. If i'm not careful I could end up spending silly money that I haven't got on this engine. Its also suffered from, not low, but not amazingly high either, oil pressure. It sits at about 60 psi at 4000 rpm, drops to about 10psi maybe a bit higher on tickover when hot. The light takes a good 5 seconds to go out when hot. Help! What cam, if any, should I go for?

[Bungle]

we had this the other day i think most people were saying SW5

[Cir-clipalot]

Dont forget to use engine mounts with captive nuts to make refitting easier (buy em or weld em yourself)!

As for the coolant temperature, Ive had a couple of mins where the temp gauge barely gets going. I suspect in such cases its a lower temp t'stat thats fitted; if yours are like mine when its up to that temp (even if it is barely above blue) it stays there (id tend to think it would fluctuate if there were more if no t'stat at all). In any case i wouldnt worry too much, when i suspected this problem with the manta (the voltage regulators are notoriously unreliable) i got a multimeter with a temp sensing probe, stuck it in the header tank and warmed the engine up to check the temp levelled out at a sensible figure, to double-check what the gauge was saying, and it levelled out at around 82o C. The system wouldnt be pressurised and i think im right in saying that doesnt matter for the purposes of the test (system's pressurised only to raise the boiling point of the coolant). So why not try this, it could at least reassure you about the gauge. If the VR is knackered dunno how much for a mini one but they seem fairly reliable so should be easy to get hold of one 2nd hand (even if it means buying a whole new dash)...Vauxhall ones are £45 plus vat!! :sad:
but the good news is theyre fairly easy to make yourself if youre electronically minded..

[Dan]

The regulator on the Nippon Seiki binnalce is non replaceable, you need to swap the whole instrument printed circuit to get a new one. It's a friely cheap part and easy to swap if you can track one down.